New FJ Owner, Distributor issue, please help.

[Whekl21]

I'm new to the forum and owning an FJ, long time dream of mine that is now a reality. I've been doing some minor work (replacing radiator etc.) but I am not terribly versed in the mechanic arts shall we say. I noticed the timing was off and confirmed some cylinders aren't firing. When we move the Distributor the engine cuts. At times all cylinders will fire but not consistently. Had mechanic look at it and he said I need a new distributor for starters so that is the path I am on. He told me to chase down andOEM and he will install it... not easy to find. So my questions is what can I install without any further conversion without going OEM. I saw some on cool cruisers and cruiser corps but I'm not sure what I am looking at... trying to keep it simple and want to be back on the road soon. Any advice would be appreciated. Photos of what is now below:

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Check the classifieds.

And it is not a FJ.

It is a FJ40, a 40, a Landcruiser, or a Cruiser.

Welcome to the forums! There is a ton of information here in the forums that will help you for as long as you own a Landcruiser!

 

[Whekl21]

And it is not a FJ.

Forgive my insolence and thanks for the info!

 

[Curt]

Check out the trollhole dizzy, its a direct bolt in. what year 40?

Electronic F & 2F Distributors

 

[Whekl21]

Check out the trollhole dizzy, its a direct bolt in. what year 40?

Electronic F & 2F Distributors

'77, original engine.

 

[honk]

What , did your mechanic say, is wrong with the distributor that you have?

Begin your ownership with a high level of suspicion when it comes to advice from non-cruiser or general repair mechanics. They want your MONEY and may NOT be your friend.

Oh - Welcome to here, your single best source of information and assistance. If you never call your FJ40 an "FJ" again you're among friends.

 

[Whekl21]

First, the owner of the shop is a friend. They even said go find the part and we will throw it in for you so I don't think they were tryign to take me for a ride, although I am usually suspicious in general of mechanics.

Second, they tested the distributor and noticed that two cylinders weren't firing, did something with some machine (again I'm ignorant) that got all cylinders firing easily then went back to distributor only and cylinders quit. They moved the distributor and the engine shut down. When driving I can literally feel the cylinders kick in and out. My buddy who is mechanically inclined also said the same when he drove it and pointed to the Distributor. Frankly speaking it's old, I don't mind replacing the part and starting from there. My hope is is that it is that simple.

 

[Whekl21]

My issue is what to replace it with without having to do any major modifications, again I'm ignorant on this front but learning. I'm also getting analysis paralysis looking around... autozone even claims to have ones that will work. The people at CCOT have been good to me thus far and I have a message out to them about their offering as well and one out to Trollhole.

 

[Downey]

I'm thinking you have a Mallory non- vacuum advance distributor. Problem with them is (a) they only give about 26 degrees of advance, your 6 cylinder begs for 40 degrees, so you have to set your static timing at 14 degrees (which never goes away), and (b) they only advance between 1200 and 2400 rpm (quick rev window), so what happens below 1200 rpm and above 2400 rpm??? - - -get rid of the poo poo distributor, go Trollhole, it advances beyond 5000 rpm..

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I have never heard a bad word one about the Trollhole dizzy, or carb for that matter.

 

[JohnnyC]

Looks like an older Mallory dual point dizzy... Did they replace the points? Replace the cap?

It was pretty expensive way back when

 

[Whekl21]

If I do what will I need to change? I'm reading various things about changing coild etc. You also nailed it on the RPM comment, most noticeable with low and high RPMS

 

[JohnnyC]

@Downey beat me to it

X3 trollhole dizzy and your done

 

[Whekl21]

@Downey beat me to it

X3 trollhole dizzy and your done

I'm reading about the coil possibly needing a ballast resistor, how would I know if that applies to me?

 

[JohnnyC]

Would depend on the coil ... If it needs an external or already internally resisted

Brand and model number of your coil?

 

[GHalll]

RMLCA - Rocky Mountain Land Cruiser 4x4 Association

1976 fj40 coil,ignitor,resistor question or thought verify workkability

O'reilly's, autozone, or NAPA coil

 

[Whekl21]

Would depend on the coil ... If it needs an external or already internally resisted

Brand and model number of your coil?

Can't find model or brand, this is what I see, wiring is a mess and that's next on my list to deal with.

 

[JohnnyC]

You have what looks to be an oem igniter and the ballast is under the cantilever black shield

The coil looks to be a Bosch coil ... Unless somebody else makes a blue coil or po painted it that color

If it is a Bosch I am pretty sure they are internally resisted ... But... Think they are on the high side like double what you would need total

I however am not overly knowledgeable on the igniter stuff and what resistance coil it needs or wether the igniter can be used with the dual coil

Maybe @pinhead or one of the other oem setup gurus can point you in the right direction

 

[abosely]

Welcome to Mud Whekl21!

One thing you are doing that is a big help as far as getting help is posting pics!

Pics usually make it easier to figure out what you have and what to do to help.

I'm no help with your issue, but the guys will help you get it sorted out.

Oh, when you get this squared away post up some pics of your new rig.

Allen