New driveline noise after lift (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bloc
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #62
I have the parts on the way, currently trying to decide between buying the tool and finding a press tall enough to handle it (almost 40" of height is needed) or bring it to a shop.. the cruiser shop in town wants more than the cost of the tool... thinking if I can not pay them, I can buy the tool, and consider doing the other side too. You may remember it has brown gear oil on the ABS sensor as well, even if it is far more quiet with the chassis ears. if it was a water ingress from boat launch issue, I'd assume the other side will need it sooner or later.
I can't recall your mileage but if it's >100k I'd opt to do both sides, under the assumption that if one failed the other is probably not too far behind. I'm at 110k and if I find one of mine is bad I'm biting the bullet and doing both. (In my case we only have one vehicle, and I don't have a press, so if I start pulling the truck apart I doubt any Uber driver will appreciate me throwing my greasy axles in their trunk to haul to a machine shop).
When you said you saw moisture inside there I was thinking boat launch or water crossings as the culprit. Rust makes me think salt water launch (like the truck was in Houston launching into the Gulf) but if there's no other rust on the rear axle then it could just be from water that got inside and never got out.
reddog90
SILVER Star
This is great tech. Thanks guys.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #68
Per carfax it’s previous life was all in Tennessee, so a salt water launch would be unlikely. And it wasn’t moisture in the area, it was just corroded more than anywhere else on the vehicle. The “wet” area was gear oil in the ABS sensor area, which should be sealed.
~160k on this truck. I’m actually gonna get a new bearing in that side then listen again with the chassis ears to compare the other side to the new one. If it isn’t close to the same I’ll do it too. Also considering the fronts, though on a more leisurely time scale.
Turns out the press tool won’t fit between the platform in my press so I’ll be loading this up into the daily driver to wherever I find that will let me use theirs.
I’ll post as I get all that figured out.
That is very interesting wear on the sensor. I dug out one of the sensors I had from before my rear wheel bearing change.
Same wear pattern, but it has actually scrubbed all the way to the sensor tip. The sensor material has been worn away some too.
New sensor pictured next to it.
Same wear pattern, but it has actually scrubbed all the way to the sensor tip. The sensor material has been worn away some too.
New sensor pictured next to it.
It's great that you guys identified an easy way to "litmus test" whether the rear axles are failing. That sensor trick seems to positively identify it.
Good luck @bloc figuring out how to press it. I'll say I got lucky with price and a pro-shop willing to do it. Definitely took several tries including shops that didn't want the work as it's a PITA.
Good luck @bloc figuring out how to press it. I'll say I got lucky with price and a pro-shop willing to do it. Definitely took several tries including shops that didn't want the work as it's a PITA.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
For the price of a Harbor freight 20T press and the tool, I'd just DIY. I watched the video you posted and several others, and it seems straightforward (using the special tool or one you fab up, if you can weld). The press would bee easy to sell on craigslist if you don't want it cluttering the garage, and I'm sure there is a secondary market for the press tool. Heck, I'd be tempted to buy it, just to have it.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #72
The thing that stings is I have a HF 12-ton in the garage already. So yeah I’ll probably sell that and grab a 20-T. I did read an Amazon review of the bearing adapter saying it needs to be modified to fit a HF20T but I’ll know more when I get it on Monday or Tuesday. If I have to I will.
Last edited:
I pulled my rear sensors this morning and I don't see any signs of wear, though there was some brown liquid. The lack of a wear pattern could be good, especially since when I'm in the truck it sounds like the sound is droning from the front (though it's always hard to tell). Or mine could be failing but not enough play to hit the speed sensor yet.
I ran the chassis ears since it's a tolerable 20F in my garage today (but supposed to be around 0 tomorrow) but ran out of time to road test as I had to work this morning. Will report back on that endeavor probably tomorrow. [Side note: when I eventually tear down and rebuild this garage, it's gonna get a space heater...]
DS:
PS:
Is the sensor supposed to have a bit of gear oil (or wet grease?) on it when it's removed? Right side definitely had some. I wasn't paying attention when pulling the left side though so I don't know if the DS also had some or if I rubbed it on my glove when removing the sensor.
I ran the chassis ears since it's a tolerable 20F in my garage today (but supposed to be around 0 tomorrow) but ran out of time to road test as I had to work this morning. Will report back on that endeavor probably tomorrow. [Side note: when I eventually tear down and rebuild this garage, it's gonna get a space heater...]
DS:
PS:
Is the sensor supposed to have a bit of gear oil (or wet grease?) on it when it's removed? Right side definitely had some. I wasn't paying attention when pulling the left side though so I don't know if the DS also had some or if I rubbed it on my glove when removing the sensor.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #75
Yeah I agree on the lack of contact. I asked Rob about the gear oil, even brown, on the sensors and he said they just do that sometimes. If it is truly on one side but not the other I would consider that a sign, but you’ll probably figure it out with the road test before you figure that out.
Did a city and highway run with the chassis ears this morning with my son working the controls and phone while I drove
forum.ih8mud.com
Short of it is that this sounds to me like a left (driver's) front bearing starting to go. I'll be interested in what others think.
Note that the LF sounds a lot quieter in the video to me than it did in person. The RF is nearly silent. We had the mics attached to the brake caliper bolts (I think) in the front (big bolts between the caliper and the CV) and directly to the hub bolts in the rear.
Bad rear wheel bearing?
forum.ih8mud.com
Short of it is that this sounds to me like a left (driver's) front bearing starting to go. I'll be interested in what others think.
Note that the LF sounds a lot quieter in the video to me than it did in person. The RF is nearly silent. We had the mics attached to the brake caliper bolts (I think) in the front (big bolts between the caliper and the CV) and directly to the hub bolts in the rear.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #77
Yeah I saw those videos. Concur on front left, personally.Did a city and highway run with the chassis ears this morning with my son working the controls and phone while I drove
Bad rear wheel bearing?
Short of it is that this sounds to me like a left (driver's) front bearing starting to go. I'll be interested in what others think.
Note that the LF sounds a lot quieter in the video to me than it did in person. The RF is nearly silent. We had the mics attached to the brake caliper bolts (I think) in the front (big bolts between the caliper and the CV) and directly to the hub bolts in the rear.
edit
What did you decide on swapping the bearing? I just watched a video on how to do it. I deleted my post as I was mistaken, looks like a PITA. I’d take the axle to a machine shop familiar with the Toyota design. I referenced a Ford 9” in my initial reply but this looks way more complicated.
What did you decide on swapping the bearing? I just watched a video on how to do it. I deleted my post as I was mistaken, looks like a PITA. I’d take the axle to a machine shop familiar with the Toyota design. I referenced a Ford 9” in my initial reply but this looks way more complicated.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
Over the years I’ve learned to not trust the work of shops I don’t know and trust. Simply pressing the bearing from the outside race vs the inside will cause premature failure.. there is a cruiser shop in town that I can probably trust, but they want as much to do the work on one side as I’d pay for the tools. Then there’s the other side.
I have a bearing ordered but the weather here has everyone freaking out. I had to put it back together because AWD will help me get to work tomorrow.. parts and tools should be here this week and I’ll take it back apart and do it then. Only took a half hour to get the shaft and bearing out. Probably the other side too before too long.
