New driveline noise after lift

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Sorry to be late to the party. I had a similar setup and didn't notice any new noise. That being said, I was running BFG AT KOS tires and they made enough road noise to mask something more subtle.

I have a tool called Chassis Ears that I've found useful for narrowing down where sounds are coming from. I don't use them often, but when I do, they work well. Unlike the mechanics stethoscope or a screwdriver to the ear, they can be used while driving down the road. This is handy since some noises only appear under load or driving conditions.
 
Did you do the classic rock the tire from the 12 and 6 o'clock position while you had the truck up on stands before you took the tires off to check the wheel bearings? I've diagnosed front wheel bearings in 2 Tacomas, a Camry, a Subaru, and a FJ Cruiser just riding in the vehicle from a noise similar to what you describe. Then the tire rock test confirmed it. FWIW, one of the Tacoma bearings and the Subaru felt smooth without load, but was loud when driving and failed the tire rocking test. Has it gotten worse in then last month?
 
I haven’t put a ton of miles on it since the trip but it doesn’t seem to have progressed much. Staying about as it was.

I didn’t try rocking the front wheels but probably can today. I just think an unhealthy amount of coincidence would be involved if that happened right when I install a lift.. then again I do have 157k on it and I know front wheel bearings aren’t unheard of.
 
I haven’t put a ton of miles on it since the trip but it doesn’t seem to have progressed much. Staying about as it was.

I didn’t try rocking the front wheels but probably can today. I just think an unhealthy amount of coincidence would be involved if that happened right when I install a lift.. then again I do have 157k on it and I know front wheel bearings aren’t unheard of.
My experience with wheel bearings is they progress over time from almost indiscernible to a dull roar. it's possible that the lift, slightly different alignment, and more solid shock mounts increased the transmission or frequency of the noise that was already there but barely audible.
 
Zero play at either front wheel. Plus I go back to the bearings sounding quiet via stethoscope.

At this point the plan is to keep driving it and look for tire wear issues or the sound getting worse. If so I'll try to track down a Chassis Ears setup and investigate further.
 
Sorry I missed this thread. @bloc, you can confirm or deny wheel bearing by doing a slalom test. If a roar sound comes and goes as you sway the truck back and forth, it's a wheel bearing. If you put the truck in reverse, full lock, and gas it. If you hear a click, it's the CVs. I don't think spherical bearings would be it unless they were failed bearing form the get go. I've had zero rubber in other Toyota's and it didn't change a thing with NVH. Especially when we are just talking about one lower shock bolt switching from rubber to spherical. In fact, I don't think i've ever heard of anyone saying that was a culprit, ever.

Have you been able to take video of this sound?
 
The fronts also eliminate the stock rubber top mount too.

My uninformed guess is that you had a noise that was pre-existing, then when you eliminated the rubber bits between the suspension and the frame, the NVH transmitted more directly to the frame, so you notice it more.
 
The fronts also eliminate the stock rubber top mount too.

My uninformed guess is that you had a noise that was pre-existing, then when you eliminated the rubber bits between the suspension and the frame, the NVH transmitted more directly to the frame, so you notice it more.
I don’t know, but let me bounce an idea off you?

The shock was replaced, but this “sound”, it’s a driveline noise. So how does a component that squishes cause vibration? I don’t see how that is possible. Especially with tens of thousands of people swapping to coil overs built this way. You’ll never stop the horrible vibrations of corrugations, weather a factory coil over or aftermarket, but I guess we’re not talking about that? I mean, we are talking about something swapping a rubber motor mount to a solid one. This is still a king shock that, feel does pretty good at handling even the smallest of road input changes, especially over a factory shock. Even without a rubber top, still don’t hunk the bottom matters, as it’s connect to a Lower arm that is held on with rubber to the frame. Then there is the whole shock tower itself. You guys should out a camera in your fender watch how much that thing jiggles around. It’s worse than watching what happens to the frame when the 5.7 starts up. Frame metal is definitely a special, flexy material

The only way to know for sure, is to put in a regular old emulsion shock spaced to the same height, and see what happens.

But I guess I may be on a different page if what this noice is. A vibration or a whine? I though we were talking about a whine, so apologies if I missed that.
 
I don’t know, but let me bounce an idea off you?

The shock was replaced, but this “sound”, it’s a driveline noise. So how does a component that squishes cause vibration? I don’t see how that is possible. Especially with tens of thousands of people swapping to coil overs built this way. You’ll never stop the horrible vibrations of corrugations, weather a factory coil over or aftermarket, but I guess we’re not talking about that? I mean, we are talking about something swapping a rubber motor mount to a solid one. This is still a king shock that, feel does pretty good at handling even the smallest of road input changes, especially over a factory shock. Even without a rubber top, still don’t hunk the bottom matters, as it’s connect to a Lower arm that is held on with rubber to the frame. Then there is the whole shock tower itself. You guys should out a camera in your fender watch how much that thing jiggles around. It’s worse than watching what happens to the frame when the 5.7 starts up. Frame metal is definitely a special, flexy material

The only way to know for sure, is to put in a regular old emulsion shock spaced to the same height, and see what happens.

But I guess I may be on a different page if what this noice is. A vibration or a whine? I though we were talking about a whine, so apologies if I missed that.

The sound is the same frequency as if you had a failing u-joint, but I don't feel it through the seat or floorboard as is usually the case with those. And I had the rear shaft out to check, both joints were perfect. I haven't yet removed the front.. maybe I need to do that.

I have also been noticing lately that it sure seems to have some positive camber, even though the alignment shop said they got it to spec. Could riding slightly more on the outside edge of the tires contribute to this issue?
 
The sound is the same frequency as if you had a failing u-joint, but I don't feel it through the seat or floorboard as is usually the case with those. And I had the rear shaft out to check, both joints were perfect. I haven't yet removed the front.. maybe I need to do that.

I have also been noticing lately that it sure seems to have some positive camber, even though the alignment shop said they got it to spec. Could riding slightly more on the outside edge of the tires contribute to this issue?
What kind of positive camber. Hunter spec is 0.13±0.75, and I’m pretty happy with that also. But to answer your question, if you are at say 2° of camber, oh heck year it will make the sound you are talking about. The loudest 200 I’ve heard so far was one in ridge grapplers that had seized cam bolts. A shop up north told the customer that they fixed it. Well that was a big fat lie, as they didn’t, and just inverted the front cam bolts to compensate. It was set at 2.2° and man did that thing roar. Not the tires manufactures fault, but an 8,000 miles trip did those tire in and had to be replaced. If you are at 1.25°, probably not, but then again, nothing is impossible. Escoecislly with knobby sidewalls. If we had some road racing tire, these degrees I’m talking about are soooo much higher.

At least you can narrow it down. If it’s a constant sound, it’s not a joint. Roads are far from perfect, and even a total junker of a car, sometimes, rides like a dream, just beucase of the ever constant changes of road surfaces.

It has nothing to do with drive or coast/when you are on or off the accelerator. So it’s most likely, there are exceptions, it’s not a spinning shaft.
That pretty much leaves a wheel bearings, so test that whole slalom thing/ wave back and further. If it’s wheel bearing, the race and the bearing are worn, so when you apply force to one side and then the other, it will change the pitch. That why the growel will get louder or softer. It’s it’s the very very beginning of a bearing going bad, they don’t make much noise at all, so listening for the changes is what matters.

If that checks out. There is the alignment thing I mentioned. Then after that, (and this won’t help, but it’s good to isolate) I would take out the rear prop shaft and test drive it. Then do that for the front.

One thing I am pretty good at doing these days, is whenever I’m about to work on something, I record some parts of the truck so I’m not loosing my mind. Like when I resealed my cam towers and timing chain cover. I never remember hearing how rattley the bottom of a 5.7 is. I could of swore I messed something up. But then critical thinking jumps in, and I never went that low in the motor, so that has nothing to do with it. Went back to the tape, and yep, always did that, just never noticed it. Now that I play with 200s regularly, when putting them in the lifts, the engines are running and I’m under them putting lift arms and yep, bangs and pops under all of them. The point of that story was to share that things will make us worry more than the average drive becuase we are all enthusiast, and that’s a good thing.

So whatever it is, your going to catch it early and it will be fine in the end.
 
My main concern is that the bulk of the miles I put on this truck are on trips. So if it progresses and turns into a real problem the odds are it will do that when I'm away from home.

I'll try to get a camber number, but my ability to measure it precisely is limited. For the record these tires are pretty mild.. ~25k mile worn P-metric toyo ATIIs.

Doing the slalom and alternately removing the shafts is a great idea though.. I'll try to get that done soon. And try to work on a decent recording of the sound.
 
Been driving this thing a bit more lately and am becoming more convinced it is a wheel bearing. I did install the OME UCAs so camber/caster are within spec. Direction of turn doesn’t seem to impact the noise.. though part of that is its very pronounced specifically between about 72 & 78mph. Below that it is very quiet and I just can’t find anywhere with the right curve to test turning at that speed. Haven’t removed the drive lines yet. Have some work to do on the daily first.

I’ll start a new thread for more eyeballs, but other than slalom and the stethoscope while on jack stands what’s the best way to narrow it down?
 
Video of the noise?
 
I tried to get some but it doesn’t come through at all with the wind and tire noise.
Fair enough.

If you're getting a lot of noise and you're sure it's not the tires, then bearing are a reasonable next guess. If you know someone who has a Tundra/Sequoia you could see if they'd let you swap wheels/tires for a bit just to drive around and see if the noise changes.

IMO if you think it's bearings, just go through the procedure to check for play. Or if you don't have the tools any dealer should be able to do it.

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Fair enough.

If you're getting a lot of noise and you're sure it's not the tires, then bearing are a reasonable next guess. If you know someone who has a Tundra/Sequoia you could see if they'd let you swap wheels/tires for a bit just to drive around and see if the noise changes.

IMO if you think it's bearings, just go through the procedure to check for play. Or if you don't have the tools any dealer should be able to do it.

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I haven’t set up dial indicators yet but have had all 4 wheels in the air with no discernible play at any corner. I do think whatever is going on is pretty early in the failure process.. so maybe with some time it’ll become more apparent.

I do have a friend with an LX that I could wrap tires with, thanks for the idea.
 
I haven’t set up dial indicators yet but have had all 4 wheels in the air with no discernible play at any corner. I do think whatever is going on is pretty early in the failure process.. so maybe with some time it’ll become more apparent.

I do have a friend with an LX that I could wrap tires with, thanks for the idea.
If you were near me I'd offer, but Texas is 1000 miles from here. Also my tires might be louder than your noise at the moment anyway.
 
Finally had time to pull the front driveshaft before my drive to work. No change.

In a way I was hoping that was it, and it made sense, as it hadn’t been greased before I bought the truck at 105k, felt like a driveline, and the odd harmonic beteeen 74 & 78. This all had me really suspecting a driveshaft. But the joints felt great when I got it out, and same noise always there when rolling but as has been the case since I noticed it.

I had the rear shaft out to check the joints already, they felt great. I haven’t driven it like that though.

If it’s a bearing I still can’t tell which one. My gut is it’s not a front on account of no change when cornering. I’ll pull the rear abs sensors soon to see if there is any mess in there.

Side note: people wanting a part time kit... just don’t. It is raining today and in RWD I have very, very little traction. I can get the rear loose by going wot at 50. I can’t imagine how bad it would be on ice/snow.
 
Finally had time to pull the front driveshaft before my drive to work. No change.

In a way I was hoping that was it, and it made sense, as it hadn’t been greased before I bought the truck at 105k, felt like a driveline, and the odd harmonic beteeen 74 & 78. This all had me really suspecting a driveshaft. But the joints felt great when I got it out, and same noise always there when rolling but as has been the case since I noticed it.

I had the rear shaft out to check the joints already, they felt great. I haven’t driven it like that though.

If it’s a bearing I still can’t tell which one. My gut is it’s not a front on account of no change when cornering. I’ll pull the rear abs sensors soon to see if there is any mess in there.

Side note: people wanting a part time kit... just don’t. It is raining today and in RWD I have very, very little traction. I can get the rear loose by going wot at 50. I can’t imagine how bad it would be on ice/snow.
If you spin-test the wheels and don't hear any noise, then I find it hard to believe it's a wheel bearing. I suppose it could be and just not showing itself unless it's under load of course. Maybe clip a GoPro on the fender on each corner over a few high way runs and see if it picks up any different noise depending on the side?

Based on what I've read transmission bearing or pinion bearing are possibilities, but they seem unlikely to me. A bad pinion bearing should show itself if the noise happens mainly during acceleration or deceleration, and if you tried disconnecting the front driveshaft already then it's probably not the front output bearing on the transmission. I'm not an expert though.

The wireless ChassisEar would be ideal for this.

Side note: A part-time kit would be good for towing 4-down behind an RV. I know a few folks have tried the electronic disconnect method in the manual, but given Toyota removed the instructions in later models along with changing transfer case suppliers to Borg-Warner, I'm not convinced it's really wise. Otherwise I can't see the need.
 

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