New Drawers Installed (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 8, 2006
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Location
Costa Mesa, CA
E-Train (Eric) recently completed a set of locking storage cabinets for my FJC. The craftsmanship is incredible and I am really happy with the outcome.
The cabinets are fitted with ball bearing sliders, spring loaded handles and locks and Eric fabricated everything to match the OEM front and rear anchors. Every joint is filled and painted. The cabinet is painted black, covered in heavy duty indoor/outdoor carpet and the top corners are covered in heavy duty vinyl and fitted with four tie down anchors. He even added a custom serial number plaque.

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I added four additional top anchors and moved the inverter in the FJC to a higher location.
 
Inverter Receptacle Moved

Since access to the inverter plug is blocked by the cabinets I chose to rewire and move the plug/receptacle using the sub woofer cabinet as a housing. I removed the plug and cover clipped the wires and added about a foot of length of wire. I then notched the cover where the wires exit the inverter and notched the bottom of the sub woofer cabinet to allow the wires entry. Then I simply cut out a 1 3/8" square for the plug cover and screwed it in. I never liked the position of the inverter plug down low. Now it is up high and away from my storage bags and gear.

More pictures to follow.

Picture shows new position of inverter receptacle, not quite completed.
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Very nice work Scott! You've got to be one of the first with drawers for the FJC.
 
Very nice Scott.
 
Very nice! PM me order info and cost. Thanks.

I knew it! Once I saw Scott's relocated plugs, I just knew you'd be all over this. That was a quick change of mind from this weekend.
 
Eric (E-train) and I worked out a trade for about $700.00 retail in new PIAA lights (3 pair) and a Manik light bar. I think we both got good deals. I can tell Eric really put his heart and soul in them. He is a meticulous person and did a great job. PM him if you are interested. He is E-Train on this forum. I will PM his number to anyone who needs it. There are a couple of minor changes/additions I would add and I plan to suggest that Eric add as options.

I added 4 additional anchor tie downs to the cabinet top.

I like the locks but hate having to lock them so the cabinet does not slide open every time.
The latch requires a piece of angle iron be installed in the cabinet top so the tongue has a place to catch on. The angle iron prevents you from filling the drawer to the very top or it may get caught on your gear.

I may try a self latching type lock similar to a front door. There are a lot of options.

The handles you see are spring loaded McMaster-Carr's that I specifically requested. I like that nothing protrudes but yet you have a good handle to grab with and it won't bang around.

I would like advice from you guys who have drawers regarding sound roofing, organization, etc. Thanks guys.
 
I may try a self latching type lock similar to a front door. There are a lot of options.

Since they're already done, it may be a little late without rebuilding something, but I am really happy with these Southco latches, also from McMasterCarr. You just push the drawer closed to latch and open by pulling (like a car door). They are available in locking as well if you're concerned about that.



I would like advice from you guys who have drawers regarding sound roofing, organization, etc. Thanks guys.

The best advice I have is to pack the drawers fully. Mine are about completely full (required a little trial and error fitting of stuff) and they are dead silent. I use one drawer for extraction stuff and tools, first aid and fire extingusher and the other for domestic supplies: food, cooking stuff, etc.
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Since they're already done, it may be a little late without rebuilding something, but I am really happy with these Southco latches, also from McMasterCarr. You just push the drawer closed to latch and open by pulling (like a car door). They are available in locking as well if you're concerned about that.

Dang. I didn't see those when I was looking through the MC catalog. I may replace the face plate if I don't find anything else I like.

The best advice I have is to pack the drawers fully. Mine are about completely full (required a little trial and error fitting of stuff) and they are dead silent. I use one drawer for extraction stuff and tools, first aid and fire extingusher and the other for domestic supplies: food, cooking stuff, etc.

I figured full would keep the noise down, I just don't want to be digging again. That's why I got them in the first place. :bang: Like you said, triall and error.

Thanks again!
 
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Thanks for your comments everyone and your feedback is appreciated. My contact info and more information can be found here: Welcome

I'll update this site with new models and options as they get built. I'm working on a couple of different rigs, a Jeep and another FJ that should be interesting.

The drawers are custom built to specs that we figure out together so feel free to email interest and details that would make you happy and we can figure something out.

Thanks again,

-----
Eric
 
Thanks for your comments everyone and your feedback is appreciated. My contact info and more information can be found here: Welcome

I'll update this site with new models and options as they get built. I'm working on a couple of different rigs, a Jeep and another FJ that should be interesting.

The drawers are custom built to specs that we figure out together so feel free to email interest and details that would make you happy and we can figure something out.

Thanks again,

-----
Eric

Hey Eric, thanks for posting up. Nice seeing you here! These guys appreciate quality when they see it. Several guys here have built there own cabinets for their 80's. Maybe they can post up some pics or you can do a search and find them to get some ideas.

Scott
 
one tip on making them more quiet: you already have carpet on the bottom, go buy a sheet of indoor/outdoor carpeting, or a vinyl mat that is the size/shape of the drawer and just lay it on top of all the cargo.

You want something with a little heft-- a towel won't work as well. The idea is to keep things from jumping/shifting on bumps and also to absorb the sound/impact of them hitting the top of the drawer on big bumps.

It is a very cheap solution that makes a big difference.

it also keeps the stuff in the drawer from getting hammered
 

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