New cylinder head retorque method

[sggoat]

Just replaced a cracked head on my 77. It now has ~200 mi. on the new head, and I want to retorque it, along with re-adjusting the valves. What is the best method to use to retorque the head bolts? I can't find any reference to this in the FSM or on MUD.
Should I follow the FSM pattern for removing the bolts and just back them off, say 1 flat, then retorque to the FSM value? Should it be hot, or can you do this cold?
Thanks for any help--

 

[12HTHJ75]

Loosen head bolts 1/4 turn in reverse order of tightening sequence. Then re tention bolts in three stages till recommend torque is reached.
This should be done when engine is cold.

See attached pic for 2H/ 12HT sequence.

 

[White Stripe]

If u torqued the head correctly the first time, no re torque is needed. Did u put oil on the threads before u installed them? Where did u hear about re torquing them?

 

[12HTHJ75]

I always re torque anything that is exposed to a high temperature differential.
It may be over kill to some but it's cheap insurance for me.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

re torquing of f f.5 2f and 3f heads is SOP in the states. I have read to do it cold, hot, warm, loosen first, then 3 stage reset and just to throw the wrench on em to see if they move any more at specified torque. I recommend to do them warm right before a valve adjust, and to use a crowsfoot wrench on the one under the rocker shaft, and to back them off a tiny bit before the reset, torquing in 3 passes. I also recommend doing so about 2 more times before you sign off on it(at about 600 and again at about 1000-1200 miles. of course, you will want to warm the rig up after the torque and lash the valves again, each time you check/set head torque...the triple check is prolly more in line with upper and lower rebuild than just the top end, but I wouldn't try to find out...I kept a cheapo head gasket on hand for emergencies, and despite the warnings from MUD, I used said cheapo head gasket one saturday upon finding out that the machinist put the head gasket on backwards(pre fire inspection prooved worth my time), and the brand newly built motor got cracked open and a bastard head gasket installed. I torqued and retorqued as I explained and have had no issues so far. My last rec is to keep an el cheapo head gasket on hand, unless your rolling in fetti, then just keep a spare oem...

 

[Godwin]

A bit of discussion on the topic in this thread from the 60 series section

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/head-bolt-retorque-warm-or-cold.124262/#post-6286875

 

[sggoat]

Thank you all for the responses and info(esp Godwin for the link to the 60 thread--many,many opinions there)
I want to stick w/the FSM and do the tork warm(at least the one article that was posted in the 60 thread){and the 60 thread opinions seem to confirm the FSM} The Haynes manual also shows backing off the bolts in seq. before retightening. They don't list engine temp when doing this, though, but it is with the valve adjustments, and that is done warm, so I would assume the HBs too
I was amazed at the criticality of lubing the bolts when first installed-never thought about how too much oil on the bolts could cause such far-reaching damage to the gasket. great information!!

 

[sggoat]

Just had a serious talk w/ technician at a shop I use-he's pretty knowledgeable about older vehicles and their mechanics. I asked about the head retorque issue and here's what he said(paraphrasing of course)--some things I thought of too but wasn't sure of--
If you install a new head gasket(Toyota OEM included) it is a one-time crush gasket. If you retorque the head bolts after running the engine up to op temp,(by retorque-I mean loosen the bolts one flat or 1/4 turn as listed in the FSM, then tighten them again) you seriously risk blowing coolant past the gasket, or at least getting coolant into the gasket fibers.( this is because the coolant is now under pressure, and releasing torque on the head gasket allows the coolant to creep into the gasket, or worse, pass through it.
He also said he would never adjust valves without the engine at op temp and running(idle)
So, that's what I did--head bolt torque check by simply checking tightness w/torque wrench, and adding a couple of lbs more from the original torque of 90--{went to 93}
Valves adjusted hot and idling.
Timing checked and is dead on--the rig does have a vac advance, but is frozen--another story--
More info for the debate--