- Thread starter
- #81
12.25 volts. We measured with a multimeter.
New battery... won’t start. key reset? engine immobilization?
- Thread starter austindave
- Start date
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If the immobilizer light is flashing with the ignition in ACC and ON, that means it is not resetting correct? Immobilizer system active = vehicle won't start (but it should crank)
The immobilizer light should stop flashing in ACC or ON indicating the immobilizer system was reset.
I think we are getting ahead of ourselves with starter solenoid, etc. I think the focus should be on why the immobilizer system is not resetting.
The "shift to park" issues was resolved correct? No more messages?
Did you try the process I mentioned a few posts back to try to reset the immobilizer?
The immobilizer light should stop flashing in ACC or ON indicating the immobilizer system was reset.
The "shift to park" issues was resolved correct? No more messages?
Did you try the process I mentioned a few posts back to try to reset the immobilizer?
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- Thread starter
- #83
We tried everything. "shift to park" is resolved.
How do we know if immobilizer is reset?
When it stops flashing in ACC or ON.
- Thread starter
- #85
Ugh. How do we reset ?
Were they any other weird issues before the battery was replaced that may give more clues? Or was everything working perfect and now it doesn't work?
Have you tried to put the FOB right next to the start button when you put it in ACC or ON? I know this was already suggested but I didn't see an answer.
Have you tried to put the FOB right next to the start button when you put it in ACC or ON? I know this was already suggested but I didn't see an answer.
- Thread starter
- #87
yes tried with FOB on start button.
bloc
SILVER Star
Was the windshield replaced on this vehicle?
- Thread starter
- #90
No sir
There's probably a dozen folks on Mud right now that would love to come over and plug in a scanner/techstream and meter and trouble shoot with you! I can hear the collective groans of defeat, but I suppose towing is the next thing. The sudden end of the old battery and failure to start with a new one seem somehow related and a shop will be able to sort it out.
I had a similar problem about a 3 days after I purchased mine with a brand new battery. Every thing worked electric. Stereo pounded loud headlights worked fine the volt meter was above 12 but it would not start. It turned out the negative lead was stretched out and no matter how hard it was clamped it did not make a full tight contact with the battery terminal. It was a super easy fix. Just replaced the negative lead.
- Thread starter
- #93
RET2
SILVER Star
Hopefully a rollback as your vehicle is considered all wheel drive.you have all been super helpful
But wife called the tow truck
Some searches on Mud turned up some ideas.......
1. Battery ground cable and/or starter ground cable
or 2. TSB on push button for this no start symptom ('08-'15) IIRC:
T-SB-0003-09 (Smart Key Intermittent No Crank / No Start)
Some customers may experience a “no crank” condition or a start and immediate engine stop condition when starting the engine using the “Push Start” switch. A new “Push Start” switch is now available to address this condition. There are more than 4 models that this applies to, Highlander, Camry, Avalon, Land Cruiser and a few more
Here is the Land Cruiser specific part number that replaces the original switch:
Original part number: 89611-52011
Replacement part number: 89611-07014
1. Battery ground cable and/or starter ground cable
or 2. TSB on push button for this no start symptom ('08-'15) IIRC:
T-SB-0003-09 (Smart Key Intermittent No Crank / No Start)
Some customers may experience a “no crank” condition or a start and immediate engine stop condition when starting the engine using the “Push Start” switch. A new “Push Start” switch is now available to address this condition. There are more than 4 models that this applies to, Highlander, Camry, Avalon, Land Cruiser and a few more
Here is the Land Cruiser specific part number that replaces the original switch:
Original part number: 89611-52011
Replacement part number: 89611-07014
So when jumping did it 'crank' or 'turn over' or was it still just non-op / silence. Sorry if I missed a post on this
I agree that this is worth pursuing as I posted back on the first page. The ground strap is often a deceivingly easy thing to overlook.
To the OP, when using the volt meter, best to use it on the vehicle chassis or ground strap, rather than the battery terminal. This will take into consideration any connection or resistance issue. Meter at the positive strap, and vehicle chassis, while you have someone try to start the car. Does the voltage remain semi-stable? Or does it take a big drop? That would be the clue that it's a connection issue.
Referring back to your pics, the clamp around the negative terminal looks suspect and doesn't seem to be seated all the way down. The terminals are semi-conical in shape so having it all the way down is important. Almost looks like the clamp spacer is taking up the clamping pressure. I'd re-fit that, making sure to knock off any corrosion, and seating it all the way down.
I know you said you tried to jump the vehicle, which should sidestep this issue, but there's been stranger things...
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Try to start it after the tow truck moves if a couple feet......
bloc
SILVER Star
Toyota positive terminals are known to stretch as well and are cheap and easy to replace. I usually put a new one on any used toyota I buy.
RET2
SILVER Star
I hope @austindave lets us know the outcome? 
