New battery... won’t start. key reset? engine immobilization?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It's either the starter or starter button.
 
My understanding is that 24 vs. 24F means that the F is reverse polarity and the positive terminal should be on the left.

The specs for this battery read:
Part Number:24F-AGM
Weight:45.15lbs
Warranty:3 YEAR
Notes:Enter your vehicle information above to see product notes.
Battery Group Size Designation:24F
Reserve Capacity:120
Battery Voltage:12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA):710
Positive Terminal Side:Right
Cranking Amps (CA):885

Specifically, Positive Terminal Side: Right

I'm more inclined to believe that the Autozone website here is wrong. I can't see the markings on the battery.

When you connected the multimeter, do you know if you got a positive or negative voltage reading?
 
It's either the starter or starter button.
Wish I had your confidence, I still had unanswered questions from the OP.
My understanding is that 24 vs. 24F means that the F is reverse polarity and the positive terminal should be on the left.

The specs for this battery read:
Part Number:24F-AGM
Weight:45.15lbs
Warranty:3 YEAR
Notes:Enter your vehicle information above to see product notes.
Battery Group Size Designation:24F
Reserve Capacity:120
Battery Voltage:12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA):710
Positive Terminal Side:Right
Cranking Amps (CA):885

Specifically, Positive Terminal Side: Right

I'm more inclined to believe that the Autozone website here is wrong. I can't see the markings on the battery.

When you connected the multimeter, do you know if you got a positive or negative voltage reading?
I believe you are correct Sir. BTW it was a positive reading per pic on page 2
 
I went looking for more pictures of the 24F-AGM battery and found:

Looks like its correct.

4.jpeg
 
My understanding is that 24 vs. 24F means that the F is reverse polarity and the positive terminal should be on the left.

The specs for this battery read:
Part Number:24F-AGM
Weight:45.15lbs
Warranty:3 YEAR
Notes:Enter your vehicle information above to see product notes.
Battery Group Size Designation:24F
Reserve Capacity:120
Battery Voltage:12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA):710
Positive Terminal Side:Right
Cranking Amps (CA):885

Specifically, Positive Terminal Side: Right

I'm more inclined to believe that the Autozone website here is wrong. I can't see the markings on the battery.

When you connected the multimeter, do you know if you got a positive or negative voltage reading?
Hmm, if that was the case, would it run the radio and such?
 
Pretty sure Land Cruisers for some time (80, 100, 200 series at least) have called for a group 27F. A group 24F should work just fine in most situations just has less capacity. I used a group 24F in my 100 series for a few years when Costco stopped carrying the 27F. They do now so I switched back.
 
@sdnative is correct. The proper battery for the LC200 is a Group 27F.

HTH
 
Group 24 is another example of something that “fits” but isn’t correct or as good as the original setup.

Btw toyota batteries (like wiper blades) from the dealer are not OEM. The original battery is Panasonic (if I remember correctly) and the dealer battery is rebadged US manufacturer. I have a friend with a 4Runner that had dealer batteries fail at 1 and 3 months respectively. the third one finally lasted. Rest of the charging system was in great shape. They stood behind them but it was a massive inconvenience and we were pulling our hair out trying to figure out what was wrong with the truck.

I’ve had good luck with duralast Gold batteries, despite avoiding autozone for almost everything else. Actually they reliably carry mobil1 gear oil. But I digress. I know I can find better, like interstate, but my thinking is there is a location on damn near every corner in the US with very generous hours so if my battery dies while I’m out of town, finding a warranty replacement will be super easy.
 
Group 24 is another example of something that “fits” but isn’t correct or as good as the original setup.

Btw toyota batteries (like wiper blades) from the dealer are not OEM. The original battery is Panasonic (if I remember correctly) and the dealer battery is rebadged US manufacturer. I have a friend with a 4Runner that had dealer batteries fail at 1 and 3 months respectively. the third one finally lasted. Rest of the charging system was in great shape. They stood behind them but it was a massive inconvenience and we were pulling our hair out trying to figure out what was wrong with the truck.

I’ve had good luck with duralast Gold batteries, despite avoiding autozone for almost everything else. Actually they reliably carry mobil1 gear oil. But I digress. I know I can find better, like interstate, but my thinking is there is a location on damn near every corner in the US with very generous hours so if my battery dies while I’m out of town, finding a warranty replacement will be super easy.

That’s right.
Panasonic was OEM on my 2008.
It lasted u til the truckwas 7 yearsold.
 
Bump for update?
 
Get a second opinion!
 
Not really possible in this pandemic world

I would seriously pause...because lower-tier techs (so like 99% ;) )are notorious for doing heart transplants...when they can't figure out that you just need a daily aspirin.

You can’t take it to another dealer?
 
Last edited:
I would seriously pause...because lower techs are notorious for doing heart transplants when they can't figure out that you need a daily aspirin...

You can’t take it to another dealer?

its not at a dealer it’s at an independent tech who seems to have good ratings and experience.
 
thats my take on what he said. He traced all the wires and couldn’t find anything. The computer is throwing off all those codes that had nothing to do with reality.
You do realize what that means with LC's right? The gas cap is loose. I kid. I hope he is a Toyota or Lexus factory guy with the right diagnostic machine not a std. OBD dongle.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom