New battery... won’t start. key reset? engine immobilization? (2 Viewers)

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RET2 said:
You do realize what that means with LC's right? The gas cap is loose. I kid. I hope he is a Toyota or Lexus factory guy with the right diagnostic machine not a std. OBD dongle.
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STD ? OBD? Dongle? Don’t understand sorry.
what diagnostic machine should he have I will ask on Monday.
 
austindave said:
no because they were horrible to deal with last time tank was in the shop
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I have heard that Lexus dealers seem to have good service on LC's because the LX platforms are more plentyful and the Tech's are more familiar with the platform. Perhaps someone close can recommend a dealer. There is a switch that is involved and that could be the culprit. Come on Mudd someone more knowledgable jump in here? My bet is the switch because of that earlier displayed message.
 
austindave said:
its not at a dealer it’s at an independent tech who seems to have good ratings and experience.
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How many 200 series has he seen this issue on?

My safe guess: Zero.

Just sayin...
But it’s your money.
I just can’t afford extremely expensive mistakes.
YMMV... :cheers:
 
Markuson said:
How many 200 series has he seen this issue on?

My safe guess: Zero.

Just sayin...
But it’s your money.
I just can’t afford extremely expensive mistakes.
YMMV... :cheers:
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What’s the alternative? Pay him for the 2-3 hours of troubleshooting and get it towed to the Lexus dealer?!
 
austindave said:
What’s the alternative? Pay him for the 2-3 hours of troubleshooting and get it towed to the Lexus dealer?!
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How much is he saying it will cost to do computer replacement?
 
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linuxgod said:
A few thoughts:

If the immobilizer says "Shift to [P]ark" that seems like a key bit of info. You should also be able to start in Neutral, but this makes me think your neutral safety switch is failing or misaligned.

I thought the engine immobilizer was also activated if the hood was open, but perhaps I'm remembering wrong. I know many aftermarket remote start systems do that to prevent someone from trying to bypass the system, so I may be confusing the remote starter with the key-based starter
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I am in the same mindset as @linuxgod here. I wonder if your key is failing? Do you have a second key and see if the immobilizer system will recognize the second key?

Also, maybe if the neutral safety switch is failing, will it start in Neutral?

OR

Also, when you try to start do you know if you are hearing a single click? I wonder if it's a starter failure?
Here's an 2006 Tundra with 61K miles that hard a starter failure:


You will only hear one click, but it won't crank. The starters on the LC have been a known failure point.
 
austindave said:
what can I ask him to make sure he knows what he’s talking about.
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Well, you could ask that anything he does to the vehicle that does not fix it, you don't have to pay for. If this turns out to be a trial and error tech, it could get expensive if he throws part at it.

The codes being mentioned here are the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that are stored in the vehicle computer when there is a problem and read through the on board diagnostics port (OBDII) that is standard on every vehicle. (The port is standard as are some of the codes.) If the tech as plugged in a scanner to the OBDII port and read the codes, at least one of them should be a clue to the problem. Not all problems throw DTCs. Often when a computer records a code, several associated codes are triggered too, because so much of the vehicle's electronics and sensors are interconnected. It takes some skill and experience to figure out a multi-code problem.

Dealers and some advanced mechanics have access to Toyota Techstream, which is sophisticated way to look at the electrical workings of a Toyota. You could also ask the tech if he uses Techstream, though it may not be necessary to use on this problem. An advanced OBDII scanner should do it, if the tech is skilled at figuring out what it reads, especially when associated with a symptom.
 
Sandroad said:
Well, you could ask that anything he does to the vehicle that does not fix it, you don't have to pay for. If this turns out to be a trial and error tech, it could get expensive if he throws part at it.

The codes being mentioned here are the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that are stored in the vehicle computer when there is a problem and read through the on board diagnostics port (OBDII) that is standard on every vehicle. (The port is standard as are some of the codes.) If the tech as plugged in a scanner to the OBDII port and read the codes, at least one of them should be a clue to the problem. Not all problems throw DTCs. Often when a computer records a code, several associated codes are triggered too, because so much of the vehicle's electronics and sensors are interconnected. It takes some skill and experience to figure out a multi-code problem.

Dealers and some advanced mechanics have access to Toyota Techstream, which is sophisticated way to look at the electrical workings of a Toyota. You could also ask the tech if he uses Techstream, though it may not be necessary to use on this problem. An advanced OBDII scanner should do it, if the tech is skilled at figuring out what it reads, especially when associated with a symptom.
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im gonna ask him for a detailed written description of the problem and post it before I agree to the surgery.
 
On the windshield.. have you owned the vehicle since new?

If a past install wasn’t done correctly water could be making it to the floorboard and into the body harness, causing all kinds of problems. It’s worth looking into.
 
WRITTEN UPDATE FROM TECH BELOW- THOUGHTS? :

You have codes stored in the body module DTC B2288: Steering Lock Signal Circuit Malfunction [08/2014 - ],DTC B2281: "P" Signal Malfunction [08/2014 - ]

I Went Through And Followed The Flow Charts, The Ecm Data See's The Shifter Position But The Body Control Module Doesn't, Same With The Steering Module. I Checked The Wiring And It Has Good Continuity.

I Scoped The Signal From The Shift Lock Control Module. It Is Putting Out A P Signal But The Bcm Is Pulling Down The Signal On The Can Bus Network Causing All The Issues.

So We Need To Start With The Bcm And Recheck Everything. I Also Included The Factory Diagnostic Flow Charts.
 
RET2 said:
Progress is being made yahoo! Sounds like your tech has the tools to isolate the issue.
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He recommends replacing the main computer which is expensive.
That made people on this forum tell me he was not a good tech (even thought he has tons of good reviews).
I am trying to figure out what to do.
 
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