"new" '78 - to restore or not to restore?

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So thanks to @Dedtruk I now have two 40s! This was a local deal that popped up on CL last Friday and I couldn’t pass up.

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A lot of words to follow, but you will be rewarded with many pics…of rust! And yes, the bezel is upside down.

I’d like to get everyone’s opinions on the truck and what they think I should do with it, but first a little background. I bought my first 40 about a year ago – a ’76 rock crawler that was drivable and I’ve been slowing updating as I drive it. Even though there are lots of things I don’t like about it (mostly because I thought it was in better shape than it was when I bought it), I’ve definitely bonded with it. That being said I have learned that I’m much more of a purist than I thought. My ’76 is too far gone from OEM specs and I like it for what it is and not having to obsess over keeping it perfectly stock.

All that said, I have continued to look for one that does make a good base for a stock restoration. Enter @Dedtruk with a viable candidate and less than 24 hours later I own 2 40s!

The good – mostly everything on the truck is original. Engine is the strongest 2F I’ve ever personally driven, but I’ve only driven 3 so that’s not saying too much. Regardless – it’s STRONG and it still has all of the SMOG equipment on it. All mechanicals work as they should – drivetrain works great. Knobs feel new when you pull them out. Color Code is 416 (Dune Beige I believe) and is one of my favorites.

The bad – the majority of the body needs major work. Fenders have rusted at the braces and near the turn signals. Hole in the passenger floor. Both rockers are shot and the lowest point on the cowl next to the rocker is shot. Mid-bed is rusted though at points of the vertical section under the seats. Rear tub is a train wreck. Only one small dollar bill sized section of the hood needs attention. Fender aprons look solid. Most of the cowl is fine. Hasn’t been through inspection since 1996! I think it spent some time off-road / farm after that and then sat for 10+ years until the PO rescued it last fall.

The frame is covered in surface rust, but it’s not too bad. It’s not delaminating. The rear is the worst and left untreated for much longer and it will be a goner.

The exhaust is nonexistent after about half way back. (no muffler – it’s LOUD!)

The carb needs to be sorted out. PO attempted a rebuild, but it wants half choke or it sputters and dies. There is also a vacuum leak somewhere because I’m getting the tell-tale whistle. Both issues feel minor compared to the body work to be done.

So the question is if this one is too far gone to make sense to try and restore to very close to OEM specs. I’m a bit bummed because I wanted to try and keep as much original paint as I could, but so much of it is gone that not sure it makes sense not to have everything repainted. My plans would be to restore as much as I could myself except for welding or body work. I’d try and tackle all mechanicals myself with the help of my local PA crew (great bunch of guys) and the forum. I don’t intend to rebuild the motor since it runs so well. My only non-OEM plans would be a OME lift, 33” tires, and a 4+ tire carrier.

Appreciate everyone’s input.

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The engine – anyone see any issues here – any non-OEM items?
 
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more engine shots
 
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last engine shots....
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And the body – I’m going to get a license plate that reads “IH8RUST”

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more body shots ....

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the rear tub - avert your eyes if rust gives you nightmares....

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The frame – definitely has it’s fair share of surface rust, but hasn’t completely succumbed to the cancer yet. However, the rear is getting close to that point. Rear diagonal braces are shot and rear sill is long gone.

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more frame pics

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I don't think I've ever seen an axle and tie rods in worse need of a rebuild / replacement

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OK, now I'm mad. I shoulda grabbed that rig myself! :mad: What to do depends on your skills/time/$$$ and what you want to end up with (trail truck or trailer queen).
Restoration: :worms:

Can't decide? Get it running and stopping right and drive it. Have some fun. You'll figure it out. I'd toss an SM420 or Orion in it and go do me some crawlin', but that's me (and you already have a trail truck). Now I'm going to stamp my feet and throw myself on the floor and in general have a tantrum. Cuz I'm jealous. :crybaby: Enjoy!
 
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What is your skill set? Anything can be fixed if you are able and willing to do so.

I have a bad a$$ credit card! Seriously, I'm a newb to most of this stuff. I rebuilt the front axle on my 76, installed seats and a full MT cage. I've started to tackle the wiring and I'm about to replace the alt and possibly the starter. I guess I can turn a wrench just fine (with a lot of cussing thrown in at times), but I can't weld or paint. Everything I know about 40s has been learned on MUD.
 
You would need a 3/4 tub, acid dip the firewall portion, acid dip the frame and I would galvanize it too. Once that is done everything else would be easy. I would not try to repair that tub.

That was one debate I was having with myself on the tub. I'd have to buy every single piece that Real Steel makes and probably still wouldn't have all the steel I needed. Doesn't look like there is a great source for tubs right now. The PACOL horror stories don't sit well with me. But I'm not in a rush, so maybe Iron Pig or CCOT will come through with new steel tubs. Aqualu while nice would always bother me with the flat floor (see purist coming out again)
 
Congrats on buying your second 40

Go for a frame off resto straight away...the truck looks worse than I thought while reading your intro post.
 
OK, now I'm mad. Now I'm going to stamp my feet and throw myself on the floor and in general have a tantrum. Cuz I'm jealous. :crybaby: Enjoy!
You'd be really mad if you knew what I paid. Thanks again Brother! I owe you :beer:
 
That was one debate I was having with myself on the tub. I'd have to buy every single piece that Real Steel makes and probably still wouldn't have all the steel I needed. Doesn't look like there is a great source for tubs right now. The PACOL horror stories don't sit well with me. But I'm not in a rush, so maybe Iron Pig or CCOT will come through with new steel tubs. Aqualu while nice would always bother me with the flat floor (see purist coming out again)
Have that guy in France make you a tub. Importing would be a bit of work but the results would be awesome! I think is name is Sven or something. His quality is amazing.
 
Wow I dunno... at least it has a new(er) master cylinder. Looks pretty far gone to me. Tub, frame repair, axle rebuilds...
 
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201276830239

I would try to contact these guys and get a 3/4 tub for your year. Right now there aren't a lot of options. I think they have mixed reviews for fit and customer service. I have heard rumors that CCOT has a replacement tub in the works, sourced from the former builder of the pilgrim tubs. Just rumor though. You might try calling them and see what the story is. If your thinking about doing all the body work yourself, it's doable. However it's hard,dirty,frustrating work that takes forever! The cost of all the panels you will need will be over 2k from CCOT and the project will take you months and months. Don't forget to check under the tub for the main spar to see if it's toast. I ended up doing mine myself, but would have just forked over the cash for a 3/4 tub if had a do over. Every panel you peel off will reveal a ton of hidden rust, so remember that every panel that stays there will be hidden rust in the seam. Check out my build thread in my sig line to scroll through some pics of what I am talking about. I also had the tub blasted first to see what was left before I made a decision. Another thing to consider from a purist viewpoint is the spot weld dimples. If you use an after market rear QP you will need to grind down the welds and then use filler to hide them. This effectively removes the spot weld look that a lot of purists like. That said, I have no idea if the tub replacements have that factory spot weld dimple.
 

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