Never seen brakes like mine!!! Big thanks to the previous owner(s). (1 Viewer)

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I guess I like stirring S%^# up! Very glad to be part of this group. Probably the most helpful auto group I've EVER been a part of.
 
The LSVP is a proportioning valve. It determines the split of brake bias, front to back. The LSVP adds more bias to the rear as weight is added to the rear of the truck.

OPINION if you remove the LSPV you should replace it with an aftermarket unit, generally at the master cylinder. If you have no proportioning valve you bias will most likely not be to the front as it should be. You install the valve, test your brakes in a parking lot etc and adjust it until it feels right. Lock the valve down and forget about it until you feel you need to adjust.

Personally, I would not run a 50/50 brake set up, that is assuming that 50/50 is what you get with no valve at all.
Testing with a manual proportioning valve instead of the LSPV has already been done by others. The conclusion was that the manual proportioning valve fully open or 50/50 front rear bias produced the best braking. I will agree that without ABS, some type of proportioning valve is necessary to tame the rear brakes and prevent the rear of the Cruiser from swinging around in an emergency situation.
 
I will agree that without ABS, some type of proportioning valve is necessary to tame the rear brakes and prevent the rear of the Cruiser from swinging around in an emergency situation.

Tokyo Toyota Drift
 
Is that how they got that LC in the new Terminator to slide like that? Lol
Nah you can get one to slide pretty easy, I've done it. It just takes a lot of stupidity (something I have a ready supply of), speed, and a wet surface.
 
Sorry, but I'm going to disagree with a significant amount of what's being said here. From the looks of the pads the calipers are likely okay. The metal on metal accelerates how quickly the rotor is worn down making it look like a stuck caliper. Since the other pad was effectively at the same wear point I'm inclined to believe all is well. The issue of not getting the piston to re-compress back into the bore is related to how far out it came because of the rotor. It will go back in if square with the bore ... using a proper compression tool will do that. Use only synthetic caliper grease for reassembly.

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A good cheap option for rotors are the brembo ones. I normally put those on all my rigs.
 
So far so good. But what do you do when one bolt just won't break loose. :bang:
 
The torch and my PVC pipe breaker bar did the trick. So, happy to say, 4 new calipers, 4 new rotors and pads, and this project is complete. I'll have to start looking for brake lines. I noticed some cracking in them. But I just need to be able to drive into work tomorrow. My boss probably hates me... or forgot who I am. :rofl:
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Right rear.jpg


Sorry for the 4 page thread guys! But I truly appreciate everyone who posted to help me out. It was a daunting task for someone who is a YouTube mechanic.
 
The torch and my PVC pipe breaker bar did the trick. So, happy to say, 4 new calipers, 4 new rotors and pads, and this project is complete. I'll have to start looking for brake lines. I noticed some cracking in them. But I just need to be able to drive into work tomorrow. My boss probably hates me... or forgot who I am. :rofl:
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Sorry for the 4 page thread guys! But I truly appreciate everyone who posted to help me out. It was a daunting task for someone who is a YouTube mechanic.
Check the front caliper bolts after you've put some miles on them. They have a tendency to back themselves out from heat cycling and jam the caliper into the wheel.
 
Check the front caliper bolts after you've put some miles on them. They have a tendency to back themselves out from heat cycling and jam the caliper into the wheel.

Thanks, I will.
 
This is what came out when I bled the brake fluid. Never seen it so dark.
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That's some cruddy looking stuff
 

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