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The "proper rubber lubricant" in this case is ONLY brake fluid. Absolutely NOTHING else.
Not according to Toyota. Remember the nifty pink grease in the toothpaste tube?
Nope, 'cause I haven't rebuilt mine.
Yes, this is what I meant. You don't jam grease into the caliper but you are supposed to lightly lube the new seals and boots. It makes getting the pistons back in much easier and the "rubber grease", as Mr. T calls it, is compatible with the brake fluid. I'm sure. Brake fluid would work fine, just thought I'd mention it since it's in the FSM and Toyota sells it exclusively for this application.
If the chrome is chipped, replace it. Once chrome is compromised, the underlying steel will corroded rapidly, and nothing will stop it short of having it rechromed. It will also shed very sharp chrome flakes, which could shred seals.
I was worried about that. Didn't happen for me and I'm generally one to find a mess if one's going to happen. Might have held my finger over the hose attachment port, don't really recall. In any case, bleeding proved easy and quick after a quick hookup. YMMV^^^^^
3. Fill caliper with brake fluid then install caliper (should I worry that brake fluid might leak onto pads as I'm attaching the caliper?)...No there is no reason to do this. The brake bleeding procedure (especially considering the LSPV) insures you will fill the calipers just trying to get the air out. You'll only create a mess for yourself if you pre-fill.
You got 3 out of 7 right......so I'm giving you a C-
Glad it worked well for you. As they say 'there is more than one way skin a cat'.
I read all these horror stories about brake bleeding before I rebuilt mine but I had zero issues...and I'm nothing special. I just bled the brakes in the recommended order with a helper pumping the pedal. Brakes are fine. Idk why so many people have issues with air bubbles. Maybe I got lucky?Glad it worked well for you. As they say 'there is more than one way skin a cat'.
Rather than pre-fill a caliper, you can simply mount it, remove the bleeder screw for a bit and let the system 'gravity feed' until some fluid comes out of the caliper. Reinstall bleeder screw and bleed as per usual.
Rear brakes on the 80 series are notoriously difficult to clear of air....owing mostly to the LSVP. You are guaranteed to move enough fluid through them to fill both rear calipers a couple of times over (if not more) is the reason I submit pre-filling gains you nothing in most instances.
That and I put a brand new LSPV in so no crud or dirt in the way of fluid flow.A lot of people would say you got 'lucky'.
You can help relieve one impediment by moving the lever on the LSVP fully upward to open the valve more. This will increase fluid flow which helps carry air bubbles out. Also, the method by which a person bleeds the brakes can make a difference.
The old fashioned 'second person' on the brake pedal works well in situations where a lot of force is desired to move fluid through proportioning valves or anything that creates a restriction. In the case of the 80 series the LSVP and the lines going into/out of it, are the highest point in the rear brake system.....making it especially fun to remove air from them.
I can tell you that gravity bleeding 'back there' is unlikely to do it. Vacuum bleeding (mightyvac/other) not really much better.
Pressure bleeding (Motive/other) at about 15psi will get it done eventually and doesn't require a second person. But nothing seems to be as forceful as a person aggressively pushing the pedal. Likely one reason for your success.
