Need Some Locker guidance

PKP80

 
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So my rig is unlocked, with 87,000 miles on it (all under my belt). Have a new set of ARB's waiting on a compressor, BUT just the other day discovered a cousin of mine has a rig 147,000 miles locked Mall cruiser to the max.

I've read the diiferent threads of the past, but aside from Noel's deal, wasn't able to get a good feel on which way to go; the ARB route or change the axles. I could probably get my cousins locked axles for a few hundred bucks, but also got a decent deal on the ARBs.

I hear the compressor having to turn on every few minutes to keep pressure is a big headache.

Just interested in what you all have to say. Thanks in advance

Sam
 

landtank

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I'd talk with the cousin and try and swap the trucks, his plus a few $$$ for your's and sell the ARBs. 147k is nothing.
 

PKP80

 
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I have too much don't to my rig to swap trucks. It would either be ARBs in current axles or axle swap
 

flintknapper

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I'd go with the ARB's.

Swapping the axles is not the only thing you have to do if you go with the factory setup. Also, his front axle might be in need of a birf. repack, etc...

The ARB's (IF/WHEN) properly installed... lock and unlock much quicker, are as strong or stronger, and by most accounts are quite reliable.

Unless Eaton comes out with an E-Locker for the Cruiser (doubtful), then I'm going to go with the ARB's.

A good installation is the key to ARB's working well for you.
 

Cruiserdrew

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Controversial opinion ahead...

Install the ARBs. Your truck is yours. You know the history, you've done the maintanence, it has lower miles and works great. Your cousin's truck is a crap shoot.

ARBs have several advantages over the factory lockers, and from what I have seen actually have less problems than the factory ones. In failure mode, they default to open diffs-which if you think about it, is what you want. They engage instantly unlike the factory ones, and are stronger as well. In my mind, the only advantage of the factory lockers is that you get them basically free in a used truck. You already own the ARBs. The hard part is over!!! If you pull the diffs yourself, you can get the ARBs installed for about $150 per diff at a differential shop. Run the lines and install the compressor (use the Slee mount) yourself and keep the airlines away from the hot stuff. I have 2 trucks with these lockers and can only relate good expereinces.
 
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flintknapper said:
and by most accounts are quite reliable.
Cruiserdrew said:
from what I have seen actually have less problems than the factory ones.

From what I have seen ARB's are not reliable, most of it does go back guality of install and reliablity of the air source, but I have seen several ARB lockers fail internally, never the mechanisim but the seals blow rendering the locker useless.


The OEM lockers engage almost instantly on slippery surfaces witch is where you actually need them.
 
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Ive got factory lockers - love them. I have searched and never heard of a failure due to weak parts. The ARBs I cant vouch for, however, a buddy of mine had his ARB break in the rear.

Easy for me to say bud I'd go with factory lockers and sell the ARBs on eBay.
 
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If you plan to play hard, run the ARB's. If you don't, then it doesn't matter. If you play hard with factory lockers you are asking for a headache. If it were me, run the ARB's. If you need lockers, then you need gears anyway. The install of ARB's in your axles would cost a very minimal amount more than regearing the factory locked axles. The compressor doesn't cycle that often from the setups I have seen. My 40th didn't come factory locked, and I'm going with ARB front and keeping my Aussie rear(probably). Money is no issue on this, but I feel the factory lockers are not worth the trouble.
 

Cruiserdrew

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Josh83 said:
If you plan to play hard, run the ARB's. If you don't, then it doesn't matter. If you play hard with factory lockers you are asking for a headache. If it were me, run the ARB's. If you need lockers, then you need gears anyway. The install of ARB's in your axles would cost a very minimal amount more than regearing the factory locked axles. The compressor doesn't cycle that often from the setups I have seen. My 40th didn't come factory locked, and I'm going with ARB front and keeping my Aussie rear(probably). Money is no issue on this, but I feel the factory lockers are not worth the trouble.
The compressor cycles every 5 minutes or so for a few seconds when the lockers are constantly engaged. If the lockers are not engaged, it cycles every 15-30 minutes. It is hardly noticable.

It is true that the internal seal can fail-then you need to pull the diff and replace a $10 seal. PIA. When the factories fail, the actuator is $$$. I've had my ARBs in the FJ40 for 5 years now. The rear was not installed properly and failed immediately, then was fixed by the installer. Since then, no issues and I've used it pretty hard with no issues or failures. It does make sense to replace the internal seals each time you have the diffs out-like to change the gearing or the bearing set.

I really can't speak to the factories, except I've seen the back and forth locker dance with the factories trying to get them to engage or disengage in Moab. I've also seen them be non-functional, crudded up, and not working because of a bad signal from the t-case low range switch. Both locker types have their issues. Both are way better than no locker at all. But if I already owned the ARBs like the original poster, I'd install them and hit the trails, rather than install a set of high mileage factories in unknown condition.
 

cruiserdan

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The best thing about OEM locks is the fact that they are OEM. It's cool to have one off the shelf with that kind of feature. And as has already been mentioned they were a bargain when new, at an additional cost of less than a thousand bucks, and basicly free with a used rig. True if you break an actuator you are in for a several hundred dollar repair but you do not need to pull the diff to replace it.

If one is planning to re-gear then adding ARB's is a piece of cake and the only other thing is the air supply. I would say that if there is no intention to re-gear then looking harder for a locked vehicle makes more sence but if a re-gear is on the plate then it doesn't matter near as much.
 

Biff

 
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I would go with ARB's, your rig is practically brand new switching your new axles with an older sense makes no sense. I've driven both and OEM locked rig and mine ARB locked, can't say I noticed a huge diffrence, except for the fact ARB's engaged faster.
 
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RavenTai said:
From what I have seen ARB's are not reliable, most of it does go back guality of install and reliablity of the air source, but I have seen several ARB lockers fail internally, never the mechanisim but the seals blow rendering the locker useless..
Ditto! I have personally witness MANY of these fail on the trails! If its not the solenoids, its the o-rings, if its not the o-rings its the compressor and so on.

Some people run them for YEARS with no problems, some cant ever get them working right. My guess is that it is install error. But i figure if the install is so hard to do right, just go OEM! :D I also dig the fact that if something does happen to go wrong, any Toyota dealer can get the parts!
 
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Curiousity Question:

Has anyone ever heard of someone BREAKING an elocker? Curious, i never even HEARD of one physically breaking. Anyone?
 

NorCalDoug

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Based on your sig line, you've built your rig up some. Now you're working on lockers.

You're doomed.

You're on that slippery downhill slope of more and more upgrades. ;)

What I would do, if I were in your situation is, install the ARBs and while at it, install some high quality 4.88s.

Sell your 33s, get some 35s and wheel your rig some more :D

The axle swap can be done...but it seems like SO much more work than an ARB install. As for the compressor cycling on/off...I don't think it's a big deal. I have OEM diff locks, but Cruiserdrew and Alvarorb (as well as several other guys I wheel with) have ARBs -- they work just fine.
 

PKP80

 
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I've taken in all the excellent info you all have provided, thank you. Considering I plan on going significantly larger than 33" with the tires, which means gears and a whole lot of other upgrades, I am going with the ARBs.

Something would not have sat right if I had swapped axles. God willing, I plan on having my rig for a long time and want all the originals on the truck (until the unimogs come along, haha, probably be a decade or two from now).

Again thank you guys for all the info and help. I will also do my best to make sure I get the best install possible.

-Sam-
 

tarbe

 
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Be sure to have an experienced pro do the installation. I had problems with seals blowing and diff lube blowing out my compressor. Others I wheeled with had nagging air line problems (leaks). Probably just due to poor installation technique.

Neither system is foolproof. I've had both and for my wheeling, I'll take the e-lockers. Sounds like you want to go gonzo, so 4.88s and ARB may be the way for you.
 

sleeoffroad

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This is by far the reason I will not run elockers again in a hardcore wheeling truck https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=61283
Twisting splines on the rear is becoming a propblem as people are wheeling these trucks harder and harder. And believe me, everyone that has dealt with the above will testify it is major pain to get the axles out and normally means cutting apart stuff etc etc.

That said, most people running smaller tires and not wheeling so hard, the elockers are ok. The front setup works different from the rear, so it is not prone to this kind of failure.

Axle swap and little bit of wiring is by far the easiest to do IF you have the space and tools to do it.

Then comes retrofitting the e-lockers third members, then ARB installs.

One thing to remember is that all ARB's are not the same. You can not compare Dana 44 ARB failures to Toyota ARB failures etc due to different seals and parts that are used in the differnt ARB's.

The most comon problem with ARB's I have seen is if they start pumping oil back up the lines. The reason could be as simple as a blocked breather line or in some cases it is install error or faulty seals.

The air system to the lockers is only as good as the install. Both on the elecrtical side of things and the air side. If done properly, it will go years with proper service. If hacked, you will have an unrelaible setup.

Internal seals and O rings can and will fail sometimes. The new style U Ring (quad seal) on the inside of the locker is way better and I would ensure that is what is in your ARB before installing. The little side O rings can be damaged when installed, or get damaged with contamination in the oil. So with the front of the 80 that is prone to inner axle seal leaks, it is really important the the oil does not get trashed due to bad maintenace.
 
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Christo, what's your take on getting rid of the blue line and replacing them with stainless braided lines? Seems like it would be worth the expense for the added reliability.
 
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