Need some help with my throttle body (1 Viewer)

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Mar 1, 2020
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Okay, my rig has been running at about 1000 rpm since I got it running several years ago. I get terrible milage (around 8 to 10) and have been putting work into it trying to get it up to snuff. I have done several camping and road trips with it and have not had any real issues other than poor fuel milage.

The thing is, I recently did a deep dive on here as well as in my FSM and found that the idle is super high.

I learned how to check my codes and when I did the rig threw two codes, 1.4, no "igf" signal to ecu 6-8 times in succession, and 5.1, switch signal, nsw signal or a/c signal to ecu with the check terminals e1 and te1 shorted. My research led me to understand that 5.1 tends to be a throttle body/throttle position sensor issue.

I've been working on my throttle body for a couple days now. I took it off and cleaned it. It was filthy. I did tons of research on here and read some good stuff regarding potential issues. All fingers pointed to the throttle position sensor. I bought a refurbished TPS at specter off road and a new one from autozone just in case the refurbished one didn't work.

I took the tps off my throttle body and it seemed like it was moving slow right at the end (like where it is in the closed position). However after working it for a few minutes it snapped back how it should. Or at least like the other ones I bought.

I followed the directions from post #6 in the following link (sorry I don't know how to link other than like this)

Post in thread 'TPS adjustment' TPS adjustment - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tps-adjustment.1011499/post-11230067

I used the feeler gauges to get as close to .93mm as possible. I got to .927. However, after turning the tps counter clockwise all the way my it was not in registering between .01 and .03. I was registering somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2. I did this with all three of the tps I have in my possession.

I checked all three of them while not hooked up to the throttle body to see if they even could reach that low of a resistance and the only one that did was the old one that I massaged life back into. I figured the only thing that could be stopping the tps from reaching the fsm numbers were the set screws next to the where throttle cables attach to the throttle body.

I figured the issue must have been due to the previous owner adjusting these set screws so I decided I would adjust them back until I was able to get the desired numbers.

To better describe the set screws I am talking about, one is just the set screw that touches the piece that holds the throttle cables and the other has an accordion kind of thing that it stops on. I'm fairly new to wrenching on stuff so please give advice and/or criticism which I am sure is necessary.

After I made the adjustment I was able to hit between the numbers given in the fsm. I was thrilled. I took the throttle body back out to the rig and put it back together. I didn't forget the gasket. I ended up making a new one by tracing the old one on gasket material and cutting it out.

I started the rig up and low and behold it's idling even higher now. It's idling at approximately 1500 now. When I check the numbers with the multimeter they are all showing as before I put it on the rig (all within spec). I'm super frustrated and have a feeling that I effd up by adjusting those set screws. Any suggestions?
 
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Have you checked for any vacuum leaks? Vacuum leaks on fuel injected engines cause all sorts of issues since it is a source un-metered air.
 
Okay so just ran diagnostics, throwing 1.4, 4.1, 7.1

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No. Where would you recommend to start?
Well good question. Look at all the rubber vacuum hoses for cracks and that they have a snug fit. If that all checks out I use a a piece of vacuum hose held close to my ear and listen for air leaks at the base of the throttle body. Then with some caution I spray carburetor cleaner at the base of the throttle body and any areas with a vacuum source and watch for an rise in rpm. A stuck PCV valve can cause a vacuum leak. Just replace it they are inexpensive. Also check that the EGR valve is working as should. Finding vacuum leaks can be a pain in the backside.
 
Well good question. Look at all the rubber vacuum hoses for cracks and that they have a snug fit. If that all checks out I use a a piece of vacuum hose held close to my ear and listen for air leaks at the base of the throttle body. Then with some caution I spray carburetor cleaner at the base of the throttle body and any areas with a vacuum source and watch for an rise in rpm. A stuck PCV valve can cause a vacuum leak. Just replace it they are inexpensive. Also check that the EGR valve is working as should. Finding vacuum leaks can be a pain in the backside.
I will definitely do that. Thank you! Based on your suggestions and the 7.1 I'm thinking that's likely an issue
 
Well good question. Look at all the rubber vacuum hoses for cracks and that they have a snug fit. If that all checks out I use a a piece of vacuum hose held close to my ear and listen for air leaks at the base of the throttle body. Then with some caution I spray carburetor cleaner at the base of the throttle body and any areas with a vacuum source and watch for an rise in rpm. A stuck PCV valve can cause a vacuum leak. Just replace it they are inexpensive. Also check that the EGR valve is working as should. Finding vacuum leaks can be a pain in the backside.
Thank you for your help Rgill. Took your suggestion but did it a little differently. Figured out how to make a home made smoke tester and blew the smoke into the lines. The problem ended up being the EGR modulator valve. Found one that claims it doesn't fit at autozone (it does and is literally the exact same piece just in green instead of Toyota red). No longer have any codes but am still idling high. Going to do a full tune up to see if something there was amiss
 
Thank you for your help Rgill. Took your suggestion but did it a little differently. Figured out how to make a home made smoke tester and blew the smoke into the lines. The problem ended up being the EGR modulator valve. Found one that claims it doesn't fit at autozone (it does and is literally the exact same piece just in green instead of Toyota red). No longer have any codes but am still idling high. Going to do a full tune up to see if something there was amiss
I love the smoke method. I used to own a repair shop and the smoke machine was great for finding leaks and saves a ton of time.
 
Thank you for your help Rgill. Took your suggestion but did it a little differently. Figured out how to make a home made smoke tester and blew the smoke into the lines. The problem ended up being the EGR modulator valve. Found one that claims it doesn't fit at autozone (it does and is literally the exact same piece just in green instead of Toyota red). No longer have any codes but am still idling high. Going to do a full tune up to see if something there was amiss
was it this one?
 
I'm not throwing codes anymore. Still high rpm though. Checking the idle speed control today
My problem is kind of the opposite where I am getting a bog under load. I feel like a dog with brain damage chasing my tail in circles.
 
My problem is kind of the opposite where I am getting a bog under load. I feel like a dog with brain damage chasing my tail in circles.
I've diagnosed my issue. Took apart my idle speed control valve and ran the test per fsm. Mine does not move. I feel the same way. This has been driving me crazy for a while. It's always the last place you look. *sighs*
 
My problem is kind of the opposite where I am getting a bog under load. I feel like a dog with brain damage chasing my tail in circles.
Hopefully this is the issue. Problem here for me is the part is like $500. If you haven't tested your vacuum lines yet, I would advise you look at making an engine smoke tool. Super simple and not too expensive to do vs buying one. I followed this guys directions more or less. I used JB Quick (don't remember what he uses), an old towel, baby oil, and a compressor instead of a bike pump

 
Hopefully this is the issue. Problem here for me is the part is like $500. If you haven't tested your vacuum lines yet, I would advise you look at making an engine smoke tool. Super simple and not too expensive to do vs buying one. I followed this guys directions more or less. I used JB Quick (don't remember what he uses), an old towel, baby oil, and a compressor instead of a bike pump


I've replaced the majority of lines (among a myriad of other things...), but my next question was going to be about your home-brew smoke machine.
Thanks for the link.
Looking forward to you getting your problem resolved.

Ian
 

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