Need help with slow leaking coolant transfer tube

[darnold87]

I recently purchased my first Land Cruiser ('93 FZJ80)... and am loving it!
I have 2 leaks to take care of. One is the front main seal and the other is this little coolant connector piece. Its a very slow leak with some corrosion/deposit buildup.
I haven't got a FSM yet but am working on that.

Thanks for any input! I'd love to know if there's an o-ring or gasket that I need to get, etc? Anyone else have t his happen?

I did search the forums but couldn't find anything...

 

[Ebag333]

I recently purchased my first Land Cruiser ('93 FZJ80)... and am loving it!
I have 2 leaks to take care of. One is the front main seal and the other is this little coolant connector piece. Its a very slow leak with some corrosion/deposit buildup.
I haven't got a FSM yet but am working on that.

Thanks for any input! I'd love to know if there's an o-ring or gasket that I need to get, etc? Anyone else have t his happen?

I did search the forums but couldn't find anything...

80's simply tend to seep a fair amount of oil. The day it stops leaking is the day you run out of oil!

The leaking front main seal is often misdiagnosed. It was misdiagnosed in both my truck, and the . Valve cover gasket could be it, dizzy O-ring, couple of other common ones.

For the FSM, make sure you get the '94. The '93 FSM has some carry over from the '91-'92 FJ80's with the 3FE, very different from the 1FZ. Also keep in mind that '93 was a very mixed year, with some odd combinations happening, so it's a good idea to read and understand the differences between '93, '94, etc.

Slee's site is a great reference:
80 Series Land Cruiser - Front Bumper

You should also hit up the local clubs in your area. I know Cascade Cruisers is up that way (though more Portlandish). Having a group of knowledgeable folks is well worth it!

Oh, and welcome to 'MUD.

 

[arndog123]

You need to replace those fan belts w/ OEM ones.

 

[Ebag333]

You need to replace those fan belts w/ OEM ones.

Good catch.


Here's another one. There's a fair chance that someone has been into that section of the engine there. That hose clamp is not OEM.

 

[JerseyCruiser]

There are three o-rings under that pipe two are on an internal sleeve at the bottom that is PIA to remove, and there is one at the top. Your oil leak is most likely your oil pump cover gasket it is easy to change with the right tools check the FAQ for details, and welcome to the madness

 

[elhombre]

From the looks of the picture, the leak out of the coolant tube appears to be from the pipe itself. Like it is leaking from a crack where the pipe flares out. If the o-rings were leaking, I would expect to only see coolant drying on the upper part of the thermostat housing and not up the neck of that pipe. I would suggest you clean that pipe off and watch to see that the coolant is leaking past the o-rings and not out of a cracked pipe.

It may look weird simply because the air from the fan has pushed the coolant around and caused it to dry higher up that pipe, but at least it is an easy thing to check before you take it apart.

 

[Sc0-]

What they said and since you in the area, could replace the thermostat and the gaskets/O-rings in that general area. I replaced that O-ring and gasket for that coolant pipe and a few more when I did my thermostat and coolant hoses. slight buildup around the O-ring prevents it from sealing and develops into a leak...

As for the front oil leak, that can be combined with the coolant leak and belt replacement and finished in one evening. Like said the distributor O-ring is a common culprit as well as the oil pump seal and then the front main seal. But if your in the area it makes sense to change all of them and possibly convert to a blue/black hub fan clutch and belt idlers/tensioner, and I had one radiator rodded out since it had some other than coolant buildup inside... Do a search on the PHH to see if it's the OEM or not... and btw: BE CAREFULL with that little nipple and coolant hose on top of the radiator, it's been the cause of people spending additional $$$ while wrenching.... AND, if the air inlet hose is hardas a rock you might want to replace that too since it is bound to crack and cause issues later on when it might be more inconvenient.

Favorite parts peddler here is Cdan, works for a dealer and is cheaper than dealers... though sometimes he seems to forgets a few items in the order due to old age I suppose...

 

[darnold87]

Thanks for all the input everyone!
I'm very involved w/ midvalleycrawlers.com (we're based out of Salem, OR) and have connections within Cascade Cruisers and will check them out more...

I'm still looking for a FSM on CD / DVD...

 

[corsair23]

I'm still looking for a FSM on CD / DVD...

I'm not aware of a FSM that is available for purchase on a CD/DVD - You could download the FSM from Toyota's site and then burn it to a DVD. Somewhere on here were instructions on dl'ing the FSM from Toyota since you have to DL it in sections...sort of a pain compared to just having the actual hard copy IMO but useful to have on a laptop away from home and the book

 

[Sc0-]

Someone here downloaded the series and is selling them, think for around $60 maybe? Entrepreneur and time saver....

 

[corsair23]

Someone here downloaded the series and is selling them, think for around $60 maybe? Entrepreneur and time saver....

I'm no expert but that would seem to me to be a copyright infringement unless they have a deal with Toyota to do so...Spend the $$ to DL it once and then spend a buck per DVD and a little time burning the FSM to said DVD and sell that for $60?

Maybe they are paying for each DL for each DVD...

 

[darnold87]

I bought a FSM DVD for my Suzuki Samurai and Suzuki DRZ400 off ebay for ~$20 each. They are probably not "legal" but they sure are handy. I was hoping to avoid downloading as I've heard of people having issues with it...

 

[darnold87]

Upon closer inspection, the coolant passage tube appears to have a hairline crack (as elhombre said above)... Any leads on where a person could get a replacement? Does anyone have a part number for this? If I knew the official part name I would be able to search for it. Thanks again for any help...

 

[ToothDr]

Upon closer inspection, the coolant passage tube appears to have a hairline crack (as elhombre said above)... Any leads on where a person could get a replacement? Does anyone have a part number for this? If I knew the official part name I would be able to search for it. Thanks again for any help...

If you're taking about the water bypass outlet, (the all metal piece from the head to the water pump) part # should be 16351-66010

 

[darnold87]

Thank you so much! That's the exact info I needed! This website is AWESOME.

 

[darnold87]

Just wanted to do a follow-up on this thread...
The new coolant bypass tube cured the coolant leak...
The new dizzy o-ring, crank seal and oil pump seal cured the oil leaks...

Thanks again for all the help and advice everyone!
For the write-up, see: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/343618-need-big-torque-wrench-salem-oregon.html

 

[blhfla]

Found this thread while searching for this part number also. My 96 ALSO has a hairline crack in the bypass tube. Wonder if that is what caused the headgasket failure (from engine overheating due to lack of coolant). Will probably never know as I bought it that way, but now I am wondering if this is a common failure leading to the numerous headgasket failures on these vehicles, especially if the stock coolant temp gauge is inadequate as I have read before.

 

[baldilocks]

Found this thread while searching for this part number also. My 96 ALSO has a hairline crack in the bypass tube. Wonder if that is what caused the headgasket failure (from engine overheating due to lack of coolant). Will probably never know as I bought it that way, but now I am wondering if this is a common failure leading to the numerous headgasket failures on these vehicles, especially if the stock coolant temp gauge is inadequate as I have read before.

That short tube is a water by-pass so the water pump can circulate water while the thermostat is closed. The only reason it would be related to a HG failure is if the coolant level was aloud to get to low, not likely through a super slow leak unless the owner completely neglects the vehicle.
When I bought mine with rebuilt motor (12k mi) that tube had a slow leak at the lower end. When I removed it, I found pitting so I installed a new tube and O-rings. It continued to leak for a couple months but only after shut down and the engine cooled. While the engine is hot it never leaks. It stopped leaking completely and after several months (about one year old now) it began seeping after shut down again. I decided that I don't care because it's minute.

 

[AZBaobab]

Hey all. Exact same issue with my bypass outlet leaking as well. The pipe itself is in excellent condition, but the o-rings were badly gunked up.
That pipe is a massive bear to pull!
Maybe there is some trick I'm missing, but two female ends, 90 degrees from each, on a short, bitty pipe with no give... means not happy times in trying to get that thing on and off!

One minor question related to that: I had a crack in the radiator (the OEM plastic one), and took it to IronPig. There, I was told that because of the crack, the water system couldn't properly pressurize when heated, and as a result, the bearings in the water pump went out.

Was quite a $$$ repair. (should have just done it myself in hind-sight)

So... Now we have a nice, new steel radiator: no leaks there. (forgot the brand name)
But still leaking around the base of the bypass.
Is a leak there going to cause a lack of system pressurization, (same as a cracked radiator), and lead to premature water pump failure as well?

Or is it outside the normal system, and small enough that it shouldn't be related to the normal coolant system pressurization?

 

[Kernal]

Cannot see how an unpressurized system would cause a water pump to fail??