Need a big torque wrench (Salem, Oregon)

[darnold87]

Big list of things to do this Sunday... one is the oil pump seal, and I can't seem to locate a torque wrench (for re-installing the crank pulley) that goes above 250 ft/lbs. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I understand that its spec'd for 305 ft/lbs... ?

Other things I'll be doing:
Replace fan belts
Install new fan belt idler assembly
Replace oil pump cover screws with new ones
Replace oil pump seal (anyone recommend using rtv/silicone?)
Replace front crank seal (use 2" pvc as spacer to re-install seal?)
Replace a heater hose that looks degraded
Replace lower (2) radiator hoses
Replace aluminum coolant bypass tube (and the 3 o-rings) that goes from the head to the water pump housing (mine has a hairline crack).
If all this goes well, I might attack the PHH, but suspect that will have to be another day.

I've read through many of the threads, but I welcome any advice!
Thanks.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Many auto parts stores rent torque wrenches (or used to?). Anybody else have input on the possibility he could reassemble it to 250ft-lbs, then by prior arrangement safely drive it to a mechanic who'll pop it up on the rack (leave the skid plate off) and bring it up to 305 for $20 Christmas cash if that's the proper torque? Risk?

DougM

 

[BirfMark]

I'm in the process of doing my oil pump seal & crank seal this evening.

For the screws on the oil pump cover, stop by Home Depot & pick up a blue Deckmate brand screw driver bit. It's a phillips head, but has a bit of a square head to it as well. I found this was the best bit by far to remove the oil pump screws with. A regular #3 phillips bit just wouldn't bit into the screw head very well. I actually cammed out on the first screw, tapped the Deckmate bit in, and was still able to remove the partially stripped screw.

I didn't use any RTV on my oil pump seal, just a few dabs of vaseline to help hold it in place.

On the crank seal, I was able to tap in the new seal by just using the old seal as a buffer. It went in easier than most seals of that type I've dealt with.

 

[Pin_Head]

You don't have to get that sophisticated to torque crank nuts. Back when I worked for VW, I torqued hundreds of crank nuts to 300 ft pounds by measuring off 2 feet on the breaker bar and then standing on it with my 150 pound body. The 200 pound guys would stand at 1.5 feet. You could also get an extender bar and use your 150 ft pound torque wrench, it you worry about the accuracy.

 

[darnold87]

Thanks for the help so far!
None of the local parts stores have the larger torque wrenches... I called quite a few.
I'll probably get a 250 ft/lb torque wrench and use it initially, and then see about having a shop take it up to 305 ft/lbs...
I like the idea of locking the engine crank via a deep socket on a torque converter bolt via the little inspection cover... sounds like that might be the easiest way to do it...

 

[landtank]

On the 93 and 94 motors the torque on that nut is not as critical as the 95 through 97 trucks.

The reason is that the oil pump drive gear on the crank on the earlier engines is keyed to the drive gear. It's a loose fit but it is keyed.

On the 95+ trucks Toyota changed the drive gear to allow room for adding the index ring for the crank position sensor. Because of this the gear no longer interfaces with that key and can spin freely if not torqued correctly.

So for now I wouldn't sweat the torque on that bolt but would make it right as soon as you could.

 

[harm]

Check with the guys at B and B automotive on Cherry St. in Keizer. They are just down the street from me and have helped me out in similar situations, really cool guys. Good luck!

 

[nicholas]

Harbor freight sells a wrench that will go that high for ~$50. It's probably not the most accurate after multiple uses, but it is supposed to be within a certain allowed tolerance from the factory. That's what I used to install my new crank bolt. Check out the supercharger install threads if you haven't already. There are some good tips for the crank bolt removal/install.

 

[shfd739]

FWIW I went thru the rental section of the phone book calling places till I found one that had it. I found one at a locally owned rental place that advertised auto tool rentals. All the auto parts places dont have wrenches that go high enough. Just had to get a 3/4 to 1/2 drive adpater at Northern so I can use my current 30mm socket.

Planning on doing most of the above monday myself.

 

[e9999]

making an extension is pretty easy. Probably best way to go.

I would be very leery of relying on a rental torque wrench for serious quantitative work. I doubt very much these are well taken care of by customers and outfit.

 

[carlosfj80]

Try autozone! Here in Beaverton I have borrowed several tools from them.

 

[wxm]

making an extension is pretty easy. Probably best way to go.

I would be very leery of relying on a rental torque wrench for serious quantitative work. I doubt very much these are well taken care of by customers and outfit.

I like the extension idea. How do you make one?

 

[darnold87]

On the 93 and 94 motors the torque on that nut is not as critical as the 95 through 97 trucks.

The reason is that the oil pump drive gear on the crank on the earlier engines is keyed to the drive gear. It's a loose fit but it is keyed.

On the 95+ trucks Toyota changed the drive gear to allow room for adding the index ring for the crank position sensor. Because of this the gear no longer interfaces with that key and can spin freely if not torqued correctly.

So for now I wouldn't sweat the torque on that bolt but would make it right as soon as you could.

Wow, I had no idea! Thanks for the info. I wonder if the torque spec is the same then? I've been hunting for a FSM for a 94. I was told to get a 94 FSM as the 93 would have too much carry over from the 3FE trucks...

 

[darnold87]

Check with the guys at B and B automotive on Cherry St. in Keizer. They are just down the street from me and have helped me out in similar situations, really cool guys. Good luck!

Sounds great - thanks.

 

[darnold87]

making an extension is pretty easy. Probably best way to go.

I would be very leery of relying on a rental torque wrench for serious quantitative work. I doubt very much these are well taken care of by customers and outfit.

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean... Make an extension for what?

 

[wxm]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean... Make an extension for what?

I think this is what e9999 meant.

Torque Wrench Crowfoot Extension Calculator

I am just not sure whether anyone know the source of getting an extension adapter (I believe I need at least 5" long for my 250lb-ft torque wrench to work), or had tried a home-made one.

 

[Elbert]

go to lowes or other hardware store. Look in the plumbing section for the small pipes . Find a section of pipe that's just large enough to fit over the handle of the torqure wrench.. ie the torque wrench handle will need to slide inside the pipe. Buy section of pipe that suites your needs... Get a friend to help you as 300lb's take some effort!e

 

[e9999]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean... Make an extension for what?

well, to increase the "maximum range" of the torque wrench you just increase its length -so to speak- but on the end side, not on the handle side.

Take a piece of metal that can handle the torque desired. Weld or affix somehow a square male piece at one end and a female at the other (use adaptors and old sockets). Use between the torque wrench and whatever you want to torque down. (you could also simply weld or tighten down a hex bolt on the wrench side but less stable.)

Basically if your extension is the same length as the wrench (from spinning driver to middle of the handle), you have doubled the indicating capacity of the wrench. When it clicks at 100 ftlbs (at the middle of the assembly), it will apply 200 ftlbs at the very end of the extension.

 

[e9999]

go to lowes or other hardware store. Look in the plumbing section for the small pipes . Find a section of pipe that's just large enough to fit over the handle of the torqure wrench.. ie the torque wrench handle will need to slide inside the pipe. Buy section of pipe that suites your needs... Get a friend to help you as 300lb's take some effort!e

??
how is that supposed to help extend the reach of a "too small" torque wrench?

 

[shfd739]

I'm in the process of doing my oil pump seal & crank seal this evening.

For the screws on the oil pump cover, stop by Home Depot & pick up a blue Deckmate brand screw driver bit. It's a phillips head, but has a bit of a square head to it as well. I found this was the best bit by far to remove the oil pump screws with. A regular #3 phillips bit just wouldn't bit into the screw head very well. I actually cammed out on the first screw, tapped the Deckmate bit in, and was still able to remove the partially stripped screw.

I didn't use any RTV on my oil pump seal, just a few dabs of vaseline to help hold it in place.

On the crank seal, I was able to tap in the new seal by just using the old seal as a buffer. It went in easier than most seals of that type I've dealt with.

im gonna look for one of these tommorow. I tried taking the cover off today and as soon as I put pressure on each screw they tried to wallow out.

Might also look for a right angle drill and another set of Grabits just in case.

Are those right angle add on drives worth using for this to save the cost of a new drill.

Im already at this point and have the parts so I wanna get it fixed. Replaced what looks to be the original crank seal today.