Need Help on my New ride ??What size K02 for stock 20" 2014 LX570 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Threads
7
Messages
32
Location
Rocky Mountains
Just bought my 2014 LX570 and the tires are not new but fair all season Michelin LTX
I looked at the data base and no info if i wanted K02's to work with the stock LX 20" wheels .
Can anyone tell me what size will fit without having to remove any material in the wheel wells?

I am considering buying some stock LC 18" wheels and adding K02's to them but wanted to use the stock 20's for now !
Z%x9UVbwQQmc%P1Hf7PdMA.jpg
 
Try to find posts by @SWUtah , he has KO2s on the same truck. Maybe in the LX570 photo thread.

"For now" is going to be quite a while, unless you really rack up miles.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HGB
Discount tire is telling me the K02’s
275x55-20 will fit without rub warning but the 275x60- 20’s are red flagged for fitting !
I looked at the 285 x50-20 and they are $130 more per tire over the 275 K02.

just trying to avoid suspension issues!
 
On My 2013 LX570 275/55/20 rubbed at full lock in the AHC low position, so without doing a sensor lift I wouldn’t go larger.

however you are going to off road just go ahead and get some 17 or 18” tundra “take offs” otherwise you’ll be stuck with 20” KO2 for 30-60k miles. If you don’t off road to the level of needing a 18” then keep the 20” and don’t bother with KO2s.
 
20" is just fine if you get a higher size tire. Factory 18 inch comes with 6.7" tire hight. I am running 285/55r20 which fits without a problem which is 6.2" high. That is just .5" difference. Running the K02 myself. Of course if you're hard core off roader like some definitely you want to go 17" with some massive sidewall hight. I only see dirt roads and mall cruising in style so my setup works great.
 
Last edited:
B0D43F3B-1148-4C2D-8BE3-1C6DD2DB5703.jpeg

2015 LX570 BFGATKO2 285/55/20. I have over 20,000 miles on them now with no measurable wear. ride great, no rubbing not even close! Only problem is that 285 cost about $100 apiece more than the 275 so if I did it over again I probably would go for the 275 I just liked the fact that the 285 had almost a 1 inch wider treadwidth which I thought was odd!
 
2015 LX570 BFGATKO2 285/55/20. I have over 20,000 miles on them now with no measurable wear. ride great, no rubbing not even close! Only problem is that 285 cost about $100 apiece more than the 275 so if I did it over again I probably would go for the 275 I just liked the fact that the 285 had almost a 1 inch wider treadwidth which I thought was odd!
I had before Defenders with 275. As well went back to stock 285 for proper look. Who cares about few hundred dollars difference in price when you drive a truck which costs 80K. Not a place to save money. 6 tanks of gas over next few years.
 
275/60r20 no rubbing whatsoever even with light off-road mountain trails. I think the offset with these 20’s is +55 though, anyone chime in if I’m wrong

E2647C2C-AF9C-44F8-A666-372A11FCE0CF.jpeg


62F2D610-0EAE-413F-8EFD-4EFC986C6C1F.jpeg


61BD36F0-D223-4AF0-8F8C-A8F114BC3D38.jpeg
 
what kind of MPG are all you 20” KO2 guys seeing? I saw 2-4 MPG drop with my 275/70/17 ‘s
To be honest I don’t know I put these on when I bought the car on my old land cruiser and my lx470 I see about 1 -1.5 mpg loss
 
285/55r20 Falken AT3W's. To the comment about them rubbing in low mode in this size- it's only useful for loading up a trailer if you're feeling lazy, and the convenience feature for getting in and out if set up. This size clears all of the rest of the time. I personally prefer the Falken's over the KO2's on my 100 series. They wear great, have 55k mile warranty, do noticeably better on ice in my experience and you start out with 3/32 to 5/32 more tread depth than KO2's depending on size. Only possible downside is they are not a 3ply sidewall-but that trade off is negligible when you consider usage with a 20" wheel. If I ever take over the LX570 as my daily driver and keep the factory 20" wheels, I will move up to a 285/60r20.

I will see 15 to 16 mph on mixed interstate and hwy speeds with 285/55r20's. But combined city/hwy travel will be 13 to 14 mph. But I also have a TJM T13 front bar.
 
what kind of MPG are all you 20” KO2 guys seeing? I saw 2-4 MPG drop with my 275/70/17 ‘s
I went with an LTX M/S wanna be from Sumitomo. My mileage went up even at 30psi cold (Gaigin approved).

Using a GPS I determined the ODO was under reporting by about 1.5% with 285/50 tires, with the 275/70/20 (marketed as 33.0”) it under reports by 5.4%-5.5%. My real, using a calculator, mpg is now in the high 14.x range up from 13.2-13.5mpg. Just highway will get it up higher. A couple of interesting side notes are the dash displayed mpg is within a tenth or two tenths of actual most times and the speedo now matches GPS speed.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: HGB
what kind of MPG are all you 20” KO2 guys seeing? I saw 2-4 MPG drop with my 275/70/17 ‘s
On the KO2s, 12 mpg around town. 15 mpg on the highway. They are worse than the studded p metric Nokian Hakka 7’s on 18” tundra wheels I use in the winter I currently am getting 13 mpg around town and 17 mpg on the highway with my winter tires on.
 
275/60/20's here as well. 8,000+ miles and no issues.

P9vS6K5.jpg

NaD3JFR.jpg
 
285/60r20. Correction 285/55r20 (32.3" diameter) for a no mods fitment.

Don't downsize any dimension of a tire if you want an all around upgrade. Giving up width for height, on an AT tread, is biasing the vehicle for the 5% of off-road it might see. And only in certain circumstances where a narrow tire might see some benefit. While trading again for others including deep sand, mud, snow, where it may bog.

AT tires tread and compounds already trade on-road traction. Why give up more by going down a size, where braking, cornering, and dynamic handling will further suffer?

Off-road too. Sidewall is important, but sidewall buldge is also important for protecting the wheel face. When airing down for off-road - going down in width on a relatively wide wheel can further expose the wheel under cornering and can compromise bead retention.

Personally, I'd recommend even larger in height and width. The LX with AHC handles big tires incredibly well, while maintaining quiet comfort and performance. With better clearance without KDSS to go larger tires than an LC. I'm on 33x12.5s (305/60r20) now. Very tempted to go full 35x12.5 tire.

1578244533050.png
 
Last edited:
285/60r20.

Don't downsize any dimension of a tire if you want an all around upgrade. Giving up width for height, on an AT tread, is biasing the vehicle for the 5% of off-road it might see. And only in certain circumstances where a narrow tire might see some benefit. While trading again for others including deep sand, mud, snow, where it may bog.

AT tires tread and compounds already trade on-road traction. Why give up more by going down a size, where braking, cornering, and dynamic handling will further suffer?

Off-road too. Sidewall is important, but sidewall buldge is also important for protecting the wheel face. When airing down for off-road - going down in width on a relatively wide wheel can further expose the wheel under cornering and can compromise bead retention.

Personally, I'd recommend even larger in height and width. The LX with AHC handles big tires incredibly well, while maintaining quiet comfort and performance. With better clearance without KDSS to go larger tires than an LC. I'm on 33x12.5s (305/60r20) now. Very tempted to go full 35x12.5 tire.

View attachment 2174038

Without doing the AHC lift mod you can't go any larger than what I have on mine without rubbing. In high mode you can easily clear larger but as we all know you give up travel with the vehicle in high mode as well, trade offs. You go with a slightly narrower tire to keep it out of the fenders/bumper while in the standard/nuetral/non-lifted mode, not because you want to run a skinnier tire. In my case, at least for now, the LX sees mostly highway miles, it won't see much off-road use for a few more years when, should we decide to keep it, we will lift/modify to accommodate larger tires and aftermarket wheels and put it to use at the ranch and on more off-road focused excursions.

For those of us that only need a more aggressive tire for occasional off-road use (beach, ranch, hunt camp, etc.) the 275/60/20 on the stock wheels is more than adequate. I agree that should one use their LX for more frequent serious off-road use that they should stick to a wider wheel and tire and IMHO it would be wise to drop down to a 18" wheel/tire combo in order to get more sidewall as well.
 
Without doing the AHC lift mod you can't go any larger than what I have on mine without rubbing. In high mode you can easily clear larger but as we all know you give up travel with the vehicle in high mode as well, trade offs. You go with a slightly narrower tire to keep it out of the fenders/bumper while in the standard/nuetral/non-lifted mode, not because you want to run a skinnier tire. In my case, at least for now, the LX sees mostly highway miles, it won't see much off-road use for a few more years when, should we decide to keep it, we will lift/modify to accommodate larger tires and aftermarket wheels and put it to use at the ranch and on more off-road focused excursions.

For those of us that only need a more aggressive tire for occasional off-road use (beach, ranch, hunt camp, etc.) the 275/60/20 on the stock wheels is more than adequate. I agree that should one use their LX for more frequent serious off-road use that they should stick to a wider wheel and tire and IMHO it would be wise to drop down to a 18" wheel/tire combo in order to get more sidewall as well.

You might be interested to know I have not sensor lifted my AHC at all. Granted my tire size does require some massaging of the fender liner. A 285/55r20 should fit perfectly without any mods.

On an IFS suspension vehicle, lift really doesn't have anything to do with clearance. The suspension stroke remains the same, i.e. full compression and full extension are the same. Only the neutral point changes. The tire still has to clear completely through the suspension stroke because what good is it if it clears at nominal ride height, only to get hung up when needing to articulate.

As you said yourself, you practically see all highway miles. Why would one trade on-road performance and safety where one spends majority of their time. My preference is for balanced upgrades, to gain performance in all use cases. Which is also why I won't drop down to an 18" wheel. 20" wheels have benefits to on road performance and stability, especially under tow. 33" and larger diameter tires on 20s will do absolutely great off-road except for the most hardcore.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom