need help adjusting carb (1 Viewer)

[morganism]

Does that truck have an EGR still on it? Most idle probs that are not hoses are brake booster or EGR.

You say you have a vac advance, can you test the vac diaphragm, and see if you get any arm movement?

Try cleaning the coil hold downs at the bolts at the base, and running a wire from the ignitor case on top to a solid ground, that should give it good electric ground.

If it is blowing that much pressure into the coolant, pressure is leaking into the cooling system somewhere. maybe head gasket leaking at front of head into the thermostat area? Would prob figure to do valve seals, and head gasket, and may be enough.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Sounds like you have two problems:

1, Hesitation off idle. As we all said before, this is almost always because you have the idle speed screw turned in too far. If you’re idling at 500 and the screw is in too far, it’s because SOMETHING is causing your engine to run crummy. Often, it’s a vac leak. It could very well be the points too. OR it could be a blown head gasket. When you fix whatever is the cause, then you’ll find that the idle speed increases and then you’ll have to back off the idle speed screw. When you do that, the carb idle port and transition slot will work right and the hesitation will go away.

2. SMOKE. None of this is causing white smoke (new carb, vac leak, points). White smoke can be either oil burning or coolant getting into the cylinders from a bad head gasket or cracked head. It’s rare to have major white smoke from an oil burning (rings or valve guides) appear out of no where. Usually it happens gradually. Head gaskets go quickly. If that’s what it is, you don’t want to be running your engine a lot while you work on the hesitation problem. Lots of ways to diagnose it. Look for exhaust bubbles in the coolant. Use a tester to detect exhaust in the coolant. Use a pressure tester on the radiator to test to see if it will hold pressure. (The last one is my favorite.)

 

[liko]

thanks edwjmcgrath, looking for a pressure tester for radiator before i cause more harm. i will order one, if my friends dont have one i can borrow.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

thanks edwjmcgrath, looking for a pressure tester for radiator before i cause more harm. i will order one, if my friends dont have one i can borrow.

Are you near an Autozone? They usually have them as loaners.

 

[liko]

no autozone........oreillys, but I have had some very bad experiences with them and prefer not to support them in any way/shape/form. ordered a tester on amazon, should be here in three days or so.

in the mean time, are dizzys rebuildable, those things are pricey. they hexagonal shaft that rubs the points looks kinda rounded off is that normal? will try to post a pic.

 

[liko]

 

[liko]

 

[edwjmcgrath]

no autozone........oreillys, but I have had some very bad experiences with them and prefer not to support them in any way/shape/form. ordered a tester on amazon, should be here in three days or so.

in the mean time, are dizzys rebuildable, those things are pricey. they hexagonal shaft that rubs the points looks kinda rounded off is that normal? will try to post a pic.

The hexagonal shaft is a cam. The “points” on the cam are shaped to hold the ignition points open for a longer time. They are supposed to look like that.

 

[liko]

Found this poor thing rotting on the northeast side of the island.

 

[liko]

Gonna go see if I can get some parts, like an intake that doesn't leak and a distributor, lol

 

[65swb45]

View attachment 1831588

Distributor looks normal. Points do look old tho. Dwell a new set and keep your fingers crossed.

 

[65swb45]

Gonna go see if I can get some parts, like an intake that doesn't leak and a distributor, lol

If they’re parting, I’d like the horn button and the gas cap! Maybe another parts carb LOL.

 

[liko]

Will keep you in mind Mark. Are you doing okay with the fire(s)?

 

[thebigredrocker]

If you get a closer look at that parts rig, see if the wiper motor still has the plastic park switch cover. I need one that snaps on

I see you tapped the carb for a ported vac source. What about putting that port to use.65swb45 helped me get set up with a vac advance dissy w/ Pertronix. Cool thing is it works great with stock coil. I was amazed how much it improved my 71 F.

 

[liko]

Changed the points and condensor, has not changed the smoking issue. Leaning toward vacuum advance/pertronix. Waiting on pressure tester, will post results. Plugs fouled last time i pulled for compression test, see pics.

 

[liko]

Pressure test results cold engine- loses about 1 psi over 2 hours.

With engine running - pressure builds slowly to 11 psi and stays there even if i rev the engine.

I think that means the head gasket is okay or maybe a very small leak?

Adjusted valves with engine warm/running .008 and .014 and then set fuel mixture screw to best vacuum, idle at 550. Smoke continues.

I am now thinking that my fuel pump is leaking into the oil, causing the smoke. I will go out tomorrow and give it a sniff test.

Ideas?

 

[liko]

 

[thebigredrocker]

Curious what your engines best vacuum number was? If you’ve got that much buildup on your plugs, I’d think you have a bunch of crap that needs to burn out of the combustion chambers.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Sniff test is what I would do first too. I also wouldn’t run it long like that. If diluted oil is getting by the rings, it’s not doing its job lubricating the cylinders. Another relatively quick test you could do is to change the oil and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump. Start the engine and see if there’s smoke. It will only run briefly until the carb bowl is empty. If the smoke goes away, it’s the fuel pump. If not, it’s something else.

 

[65swb45]

You can smell gasoline on a dipstick any time, cold or hot.

Sniff the dipstick.

If you’re not seeing a net decrease in coolant from your overflow bottle, you’re not losing coolant. If your rig doesn’t have one, you can rig most any beverage container to work as one good enough for testing.

And, like @thebigredrocker I am curious about manifold vacuum.