Need extra power sources in rear (1 Viewer)

[250below10]

Ok.. onward and downward I go. Seriously is there a door ajar dash indicator light? I have read through some posts about this mysterious door open dash icon and also apparently the seat belts have a warning buzzer and well.. none of those things work for me so does anyone have a picture of this dash icon for the door open Symbol? Of course my D dash icon is also dead but I just haven’t had a good enough reason to go messing around in there yet!

I am trying to track down a short in my courtesy door rear LH system. I suspect there is a short somewhere under the driver kick plate since my husband was messing around in there recently. I am not reading any electrical current at the switch and I have no polarity between the switch and light socket.. so realistically Maybe the short is in the rear LH pillar or kick plate. The Rear hatch Door switch also doesn't Trigger the dome light system either but that Is next on the agenda.

I haven’t figured out how to detach the door switch female and male plugs at the BN2 connectors.. Any suggestions?

There you go!
FWIW I dont have a seatbelt buzz either, but I dont if mine is also broken.

 

[Snobud]

View attachment 2452181
There you go!
FWIW I dont have a seatbelt buzz either, but I dont if mine is also broken.

Thanks that is very helpful. Dang it now I have to figure out how to get that to work too. Thanks for the picture I seriously couldnt find anything in the owners manual or on here to indicate It’s position in the dash.

 

[Tennessee80]

Both Blue Sea and Powerwerx make nice panels that you can mix and match to your needs.
360 Panel - 12V DC Socket and Dual USB Charger - Blue Sea Systems
Four Hole Square Panel Mounting Plate | Powerwerx

I used the Blue Sea panel in the rear quarter of my LX450 in place of the ash tray that was there. It's always hot and works very well for my ARB fridge and allows me to plug in whatever device I want to charge overnight when I'm sleeping in the back. My needs are simpler than yours, but you get the idea.

I ran #12 wire from my under hood fuse panel, down the passenger side interior cable way.

View attachment 1750800

this is simple and slick. For my occasional power needs back there this would work well. Where did you start the #12 wire run again, you said under the hood fuse panel? Do you have a pic of the origin connection up there? thanks!

 

[NeverFinis]

I just saw this thread pop up. Using Delta VS QPM.

Here is some pics of work in progress. Taping out locations to match cubby hole on trim. I wanted the fuse panel to be accessible through the cubby door with the trim on. Also, everything is on the left side to allow room for expansion (air compressor, and/or inverter) on the right side.

Using a Li time DC-DC converter, Blue Sea Fuse Panel, and Fuse Blocks. The relay is there for ACC activated power. I most definitely could have gone with a smaller fuse panel.

I used 6 AWG welding wire to run power between the front and back, fused with 60 AMP Blue Sea fuse block on both ends. The DC to DC converter is rated for 40 Amps output and and recommended either 8 AWG (<16 feet) or 6 AWG ( >16 feet) on the wire run to the starter battery. I think the run is about 12 feet, but I decided to go with 6 AWG for future expansion.

Anderson 125 Amp connector for power between the panel and the battery. The BMS on the Lithium battery maxes at 100 Amps. The Blue Sea Fuse Panel is rated for a maximum of 100 Amps as well.

Cheap Nilight panel, which fits into the space left by the 3rd row seat belt mechanism. Should be easy to reach from the outside.

I used Windlace to protect the wires from the external Nilight panel to the QPM.

 

[jonheld]

this is simple and slick. For my occasional power needs back there this would work well. Where did you start the #12 wire run again, you said under the hood fuse panel? Do you have a pic of the origin connection up there? thanks!

I have a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block mounted on the cruise control cover. It is crude, simple, and works well for my needs. It has 6 circuits with a ground buss. More than enough for my needs. Direct feeds from the battery.
While many of the posts on this thread are well designed, look fantastic, and have lots of flexibility, I prefer to keep my electrical with as few connection points as possible. This is my second 80 Series and I promised myself to keep things simple on this one.

 

[Tennessee80]

I have a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block mounted on the cruise control cover. It is crude, simple, and works well for my needs. It has 6 circuits with a ground buss. More than enough for my needs. Direct feeds from the battery.
While many of the posts on this thread are well designed, look fantastic, and have lots of flexibility, I prefer to keep my electrical with as few connection points as possible. This is my second 80 Series and I promised myself to keep things simple on this one.

That sounds like exactly what I want to do.

Thanks!

 

[lumbee1]

I have 4AWG cable and a 10AWG cable running from my house battery under hood to the rear quarter panel.
- The 10AWG powers the fridge and is controlled by a switch on the dash to a relay under the hood.
- The 4AWG powers a pair of Anderson connectors, a cig adapter, a dual USB port with 12V monitoring, and a 100A Anderson connector. I use the 100A Anderson for my dual piston air compressor.

I've been really happy with this setup and charge my phones, tablet, and battery bank off the ports while at camp.