Need extra power sources in rear

[Snobud]

The fire extinguiser is mounted to the third row seat belt mount in the D pillar. The door is a boat hatch purchased off Amazon; Hatch Door.
I made the mount for the isolation board mounted in the fender wheel, check out my build thread for more info.

Ok so I got a chance to look through your build and it looks amazingly clean and my stock wiring looks nothing like that! The battery terminals are a jumbled hot mess. So how did you go about fashioning the metal mounting brackets for the isolation board?

 

[Snobud]

The fire extinguiser is mounted to the third row seat belt mount in the D pillar. The door is a boat hatch purchased off Amazon; Hatch Door.
I made the mount for the isolation board mounted in the fender wheel, check out my build thread for more info.

If you plan to add on later, you might want to go thicker than 10 guage, running the wire is the most time consuming part. Terminating the ends and adding fuses or circuit breakers is the easy part. If you did choose to just do the 10 guage wire for now, at least you would have a good idea about what it will involve to get it run nicely. And thus when you upgrade in the future you will have no problem getting it done with thicker cable.

Ok so I thought I had a good grasp on what I was getting myself into but then I looked at both of your guys builds. Specifically
"HOW TO: POWER DISTRIBUTION Part 1-Aux fuse panel"
HOW TO: POWER DISTRIBUTION Part 1-Aux fuse panel
Which gave me some direction and good ideas and has inspired me to add a few more USB ports to the front cabin lower front dash, similar to where Chaps mounted his 6 panel mount. I am not going to lie seeing both of your guys amazingly clean engine wiring set ups was discouraging and overwhelming but beautiful and inspiring at the same time. So forgive me if I bug you with questions and if there is a book or something you want to direct me to then I will gladly head that way too.

So now that I am a little power hungry and want extra main cabin power ports would I run a 14 AWG wire from the battery, to a circuit breaker, through the firewall, to a separate front fuse panel and then add the 8 gauge wire from the battery, to a circuit breaker, through the firewall to the rear passenger quarter panel? Or is there a way to run one main power line from the battery to the first fuse panel and then continue into the back?

Also When I set power up this way, through the circuit breaker and fuse panel then will all of the power remain live when the ignition is off? I would like for the power supplied to the fridge and one USB port to always be powered.

 

[Snobud]

@NLXTACY do you know what these items are?

 

[NLXTACY]

Solenoid and two circuit breakers. They were likely added to help the starter.

 

[Snobud]

@NLXTACY thanks again for all of your help and I am finally getting things ready to run my power, not the second battery install yet. Is there any thing wrong with my outlined plan that you guys can see? I would like to run one power source to the firewall to a single terminal junction that feeds through the firewall and then from there tap off of it for my front 30amps of power and then t-off again for the rear 30 amps of power and ground.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Here's my limited personal experience with electrical "stuff" I live in a fairly good sized metro area so I tend to stubbornly think that I can walk into a store or 2 and get whatever I need off the shelf. This is not really the case, better quality stuff can come from West Marine at a pretty good upcharge, we have a place called Vetco which has good people and a lot of weird stuff, but is short on strictly automotive stuff.
Don't be like me; do your research, and order a good complete list of parts before you start.
@NLXTACY , could that stuff @Snobud asked about be winch related?

 

[MrMikeyG]

Sorry, I realized I posted something somewhat random and didn't offer a "solution."
Here is a vendor I was told is pretty good;

Waytek | Electrical Components Distributor

Same Day Shipping | Waytek is a leading distributor of high-quality electrical components, including circuit protection, automotive wire, connectors, terminals, switches, relays, and more.

www.waytekwire.com

 

[Snobud]

Here's my limited personal experience with electrical "stuff" I live in a fairly good sized metro area so I tend to stubbornly think that I can walk into a store or 2 and get whatever I need off the shelf. This is not really the case, better quality stuff can come from West Marine at a pretty good upcharge, we have a place called Vetco which has good people and a lot of weird stuff, but is short on strictly automotive stuff.
Don't be like me; do your research, and order a good complete list of parts before you start.
@NLXTACY , could that stuff @Snobud asked about be winch related?

No winch just very simple low amp 12vdc power ports like dual Anderson ports, dual usb charging ports, etc.. nothing that on its own circuit will exceed 25-30 amps. Thanks for the recommendation on supplies and so far I am planning to buy supplies through powerwerx.com, genuine deals.com, Amazon, and my local radio shack. This plan of mine has been a year in the making of the planning phase so at this point the only thing holding me up right now is trying to locate an engine mounting location for my ARB CKMTA12 twin air compressor so that I don’t have to run extra power to the passenger side rear quarter panel. I am trying to avoid using that front passenger side typically reserved for the second battery and am considering mounting it to the passenger side firewall or fender.

I am also going to go back and look at how much of a power draw a battery monitor uses because that is the only thing extra I can foresee adding into the main cabin area once I approach the dual battery install.

 

[Snobud]

sorry to be such a procrastinator and rack your brain on this. I did look through your build and I got a lot of great information. However I have been avoiding running my power because of some road blocks.

Do you happen to have any building specs or designs for the brackets you fabricated for the rear quarter panel Power block mounting board? If you had anything it would be appreciated. I could send any design to a local fabricator and have them made Instead of leaving the vehicle with them.

my second road block is that I am running into a mental block with the multiple power wires. I want to run 4awg to a power junction block and then run power to the front and rear of the vehicle from the junction block. I don’t know if I am supposed to drill mounting holes into the firewall for the junction or find existing mounting bolts? Additionally I have only found one entrance point from the engine bay into the cabin area. So then I got to thinking about possibly running the 4awg into the cabin area and having in junction/T off from inside the cabin to my two fused power blocks.

I ran 4awg from the house battery to a 100amp circuit breaker in the engine bay. Then the 4 gauge continues to the passenger rear quater panel and terminates at a fuse block on a mount that I made. Tee'd from the fuse block it goes to another circuit breaker to the Puma compressor. Off the fuse block it goes to the USB, AUX port, voltmeter, 7-pin trailer....

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[cvenom96]

Here's a picture of what I setup. It's similar to the Wits-End quarter panel piece. I just used a bunch of stuff I had lying around. For wiring, I ran 6ga from the battery back to a junction block on the panel. There is a 60 amp inline fuse at the battery for it. From the junction block, I ran the 6ga to my Kicker amp, 400 watt inverter, and the Blue Sea panel. The amp kicks on with the radio so nothing additional needed to be done there. The inverter I haven't finished the setup yet but I'm using the Toyota Matrix 110 dash switch to turn it off and on. For USB power, I ran wires up to the console and into each door for the Blue Sea USB ports. I borrowed that idea from @TRAIL TAILOR and his awesome build. A Toyota foglight switch is used to turn this circuit off and on and is located in one of the coin slots. Marine grade continuous power relays are used in conjunction with the dash and console switches. I made a panel to cover where the ashtray was but it's not shown in this picture. Hope that helps a bit.

 

[Snobud]

Here's a picture of what I setup. It's similar to the Wits-End quarter panel piece. I just used a bunch of stuff I had lying around. For wiring, I ran 6ga from the battery back to a junction block on the panel. There is a 60 amp inline fuse at the battery for it. From the junction block, I ran the 6ga to my Kicker amp, 400 watt inverter, and the Blue Sea panel. The amp kicks on with the radio so nothing additional needed to be done there. The inverter I haven't finished the setup yet but I'm using the Toyota Matrix 110 dash switch to turn it off and on. For USB power, I ran wires up to the console and into each door for the Blue Sea USB ports. I borrowed that idea from @TRAIL TAILOR and his awesome build. A Toyota foglight switch is used to turn this circuit off and on and is located in one of the coin slots. Marine grade continuous power relays are used in conjunction with the dash and console switches. I made a panel to cover where the ashtray was but it's not shown in this picture. Hope that helps a bit.

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Thank you! Very insightful. The junction blocks you have pictured are exactly what I want to do except to mount them up in the passenger or driver foot well area. My concern is finding a place to mount them up there and the second issue plaguing me is, wouldn’t I want to cover those junction blocks because power will be running through them? I want to run power from the junction block in the foot well to the middle console fuse block then to USB and other various charging ports. Then run from the junction block power back to the rear quarter panel.

Start at the battery go to 60amp in-line fuse, to relay and switch, to junction block, T off from junction block to middle console fuse block, T off to rear quarter panel fuse block. Maybe have some on/off switches in the mix to control the two different sections of power so the front can be on separate from the rear quarter panel.

That was a great use of that perforated round angle, did you powder coat it black?

your pictures gave me a great idea to mount my fuse block in that little cubby door area and have a plug and play disconnect, drill a hole in the side for the wires to enter and then I will always have quick access to it.

 

[cvenom96]

I had some zinc etching primer and semigloss black paint and hit it with that. I've had pretty good luck with that. That junction block came with rubber covers but since I have so many connections in different directions I couldn't install them.

This is what I ordered.


Junction Block

 

[Snobud]

I almost forgot I did finally get the second battery tray and the air compressor mounted into the engine compartment. I still need to order the flat top mount terminal connectors and run the air compressor switch inside to the drivers side dash.

 

[Snobud]

I had some zinc etching primer and semigloss black paint and hit it with that. I've had pretty good luck with that. That junction block came with rubber covers but since I have so many connections in different directions I couldn't install them.

This is what I ordered.


Junction Block

Thank you so much, I can now move forward with ordering supplies and figuring out where and how to mount the junction block. I wonder if I can use adhesive to glue them in place? i could probably use plasti dip to cover the Junction blocks.

 

[cvenom96]

You could probably use an epoxy but I'd try to find somewhere you could bolt it. Ideally it'd be somewhere you don't have to get to all the time so you wouldn't want to chance it popping loose down the road.

 

[chap79]

sorry to be such a procrastinator and rack your brain on this. I did look through your build and I got a lot of great information. However I have been avoiding running my power because of some road blocks.

Do you happen to have any building specs or designs for the brackets you fabricated for the rear quarter panel Power block mounting board? If you had anything it would be appreciated. I could send any design to a local fabricator and have them made Instead of leaving the vehicle with them.

my second road block is that I am running into a mental block with the multiple power wires. I want to run 4awg to a power junction block and then run power to the front and rear of the vehicle from the junction block. I don’t know if I am supposed to drill mounting holes into the firewall for the junction or find existing mounting bolts? Additionally I have only found one entrance point from the engine bay into the cabin area. So then I got to thinking about possibly running the 4awg into the cabin area and having in junction/T off from inside the cabin to my two fused power blocks.

No, I don’t have any measurements from when I made the mount. I literally just took a few measurements cut a piece of sheet and bent it in a bench vise. Drilled some holes and attached a piece of scrap plywood I had.

I would definitely find some way to cover the exposed positive junction post and terminals. The last thing you want is someone swinging their foot around by the kick panels and catching a toe ring on it

Even a rubber vacuum cap would work. And if you can’t shrink tube the terminal lugs try liquid electrical tape. Awesome stuff.

 

[Snobud]

Alright another question or two. Ok so run power from battery to 60 amp circuit breaker to the junction block. From here run cable to a switch and relay and theN to my fuse block A, because I want to be able to turn it on and off when I want And not with the vehicle. So my question, do I need an inline 30 amp fuse before the relay?
then I plan to run my 6awg cable to the rear quarter panel junction block and repeat.

 

[Snobud]

I have finally Stated the electrical and I don’t know how I missed seeing in your picture that recessed connector on the rear quarter panel door. what is that and where did you find it? I bought the junction blocks you suggested and they work great.

this is actually a lot easier than I thought it would be thank you for your suggestions And help. I am waiting for more supplies to arrive so I can finish up rthe wiring in the front and I started working on the rear quarter panel today.

Here's a picture of what I setup. It's similar to the Wits-End quarter panel piece. I just used a bunch of stuff I had lying around. For wiring, I ran 6ga from the battery back to a junction block on the panel. There is a 60 amp inline fuse at the battery for it. From the junction block, I ran the 6ga to my Kicker amp, 400 watt inverter, and the Blue Sea panel. The amp kicks on with the radio so nothing additional needed to be done there. The inverter I haven't finished the setup yet but I'm using the Toyota Matrix 110 dash switch to turn it off and on. For USB power, I ran wires up to the console and into each door for the Blue Sea USB ports. I borrowed that idea from @TRAIL TAILOR and his awesome build. A Toyota foglight switch is used to turn this circuit off and on and is located in one of the coin slots. Marine grade continuous power relays are used in conjunction with the dash and console switches. I made a panel to cover where the ashtray was but it's not shown in this picture. Hope that helps a bit.

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View attachment 2340725

 

[cvenom96]

If you're referring to the round outlet, that's a speaker connection for my subwoofer. It came from Amazon.

Speaker connection

The hardest part I felt was just planning where everything would go and figuring out what I wanted to have. The installation was pretty easy especially since I had the carpet and seats out already.

 

[Snobud]

I am running into a bit of a hard wall of confusion. I have found some vague information that only 1 grounding wire is needed and then other information that several grounding connections are necessary. So from what I can tell I am not supposed to have any of my ground cables intersecting because the electrical feed could travel through any of those connecting negative cables Before making it to a ground connection is this correct?. if this is true then I may have installed things incorrectly as of right now I have ground cable running from the engine bay to my junction block. The junction block is a hub reciever where all of my other grounds are connected from the switch, relay, and fuse Block. I then continued the ground wire from that junction block down to the rear quarter panel section to be similarly set up. Nothing has been connected to the battery yet and I was planning to ground the battery first before making any connections but now I am wondering if I need to isolate the battery grounding from all of the other grounding cables? So do I need to ground the battery by its self then ground the junction block by its self and then run another individual ground in the rear quarter panel for that junction block and fuse block?

Grounding Negative System