Need extra power sources in rear (17 Viewers)

[Snobud]

Thanks to everyone for helping there is no way I could have done this without all of you guys! I finally finished my install and I LOVE IT!!! of course now I want LED light strips on my front foot Wells
I mounted and installed the ARB CKMTA12, IBS-DBS battery control and monitor, my rear and front auxiliary power ports, an engine bay LED light strip.

 

[fjbj40]

You need to replace that radiator!

nice set-up though

 

[cvenom96]

Awesome job!

 

[Snobud]

You need to replace that radiator!

nice set-up though

Thanks... so why am I needing to replace the radiator? I am pretty sure it hasn’t fallen out or blown up so I am pretty sure it is still doing it’s job.

 

[NLXTACY]

I think I went a little overboard

 

[Snobud]

is this a new build? Look at at That fancy drawer system “One who lives content with little, possesses everything.” I think It was one of your original threads that inspired me to take the plunge off the deep end and finally start modifying the LC and do this electrical install. What does the Weboost do?

I think I went a little overboard

View attachment 2422593View attachment 2422594View attachment 2422595

 

[MrMikeyG]

Weboost is a cellular signal "booster." That is the extent of my knowledge.
@NLXTACY Hey. would you recommend sourcing all of that fancy extrusion stuff from 8020 inc direct of is there another supplier? I'd love to see it in person somewhere.

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

is this a new build? Look at at That fancy drawer system “One who lives content with little, possesses everything.” I think It was one of your original threads that inspired me to take the plunge off the deep end and finally start modifying the LC and do this electrical install. What does the Weboost do?

Looks like goose gear to me.....

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

Typ

Thanks... so why am I needing to replace the radiator? I am pretty sure it hasn’t fallen out or blown up so I am pretty sure it is still doing it’s job.

Typically when our under hood plastic items discolor like that it’s about to go boom. When radiators and heater control valves discolor it’s an early warning sign. Most owners decide to replace then as preventative maintenance.

However it’s your head gasket and your choice .......

 

[MrMikeyG]

I didn't know goose gear had an inner skeleton... now I have to back and read the goose gear threads.

 

[MrMikeyG]

@GOTLOCKED96 good eye. product shots on the web page confirmed it.

 

[unclegit]

Goose gear is awesome - I just wish they made larger kitchen modules to accommodate the larger Arb fridges as I've a 63 qt I'm not wanting to replace...

Hey I'm Irish - I need a lot of cold beer OK - don't judge

 

[Snobud]

Typ

Typically when our under hood plastic items discolor like that it’s about to go boom. When radiators and heater control valves discolor it’s an early warning sign. Most owners decide to replace then as preventative maintenance.

However it’s your head gasket and your choice .......

thanks I will take a closer look with some daylight. It’s amazing what you guys see just in a picture!! Is there a thread I should know about regarding this known issue? I can do a search for that too if you don’t know any off hand.

Weboost is a cellular signal "booster." That is the extent of my knowledge.
@NLXTACY Hey. would you recommend sourcing all of that fancy extrusion stuff from 8020 inc direct of is there another supplier? I'd love to see it in person somewhere.

so does that mean you can get signal in dead zones? dang It now I need to go look at this weboost more closely.

 

[fjbj40]

Thanks... so why am I needing to replace the radiator? I am pretty sure it hasn’t fallen out or blown up so I am pretty sure it is still doing it’s job.

when they are brown instead of black they are on their last days. Ready to pop anytime with no warning other than being brown! Brown is your warning....
It’s the plastic that fails, it’s not the diminished cooling as some think. The cores last, the plastic does not.

 

[NLXTACY]

so does that mean you can get signal in dead zones? dang It now I need to go look at this weboost more closely.

No. It means if you normally have one bar, this will kick the reception up to 4 or 5

 

[Snobud]

No. It means if you normally have one bar, this will kick the reception up to 4 or 5

I think I need this signal booster.
so...... a storm hit and brought down a part of our tree through our garage roof and a power line transformer. So we have been without power since the start of this week. Cell towers are crap too.Thankfully my aux Power was done in the LC so I just threw my fridge into the ARB and hooked it up.

Question, can a parasitic power drain on the main battery deplete my aux battery? my damned multimeter is defective aka just crap and broken. I just need things to stop breaking and needing My attention to be fixed!!! i love my IBS dual battery monitor because it helps me see that the main battery power is draining when just sitting there.

 

[Snobud]

i didn’t get around to getting another multimeter yet. So I plugged in the solar panel this morning and the Fridge maintained its tempt all day. Them sun went down and the fridge temp increased. The arb fridge keeps triggering the orange/Amber/yellow light. The fridge powers great when the vehicle is turned on but not when sitting without direct solar power connected.

 

[sunrk]

Rule of thumb is to add up all the potential load currents of every device (including anything small), and double that total, then use that number to figure out what thickness of cable is needed. When I installed my 12 v compressor in the rear, I ran 10 mm sq twin cable from the auxilliary battery to the back of my 80 and have a 120 amp anderson pair as the primary connector for everything in the back behind the second row seats. There is a fuse at the aux battery and every 'branch' at the back from the anderson connector is also seperately fused.

I have a 50 amp anderson near the LHS barn door in case I need to power anything external when parked anywhere.

Note that I don't have a powered fridge/freezer in the 80 but if I did I'd re-work all the numbers though I think the existing setup will suffice.

Craig.

 

[Snobud]

Rule of thumb is to add up all the potential load currents of every device (including anything small), and double that total, then use that number to figure out what thickness of cable is needed. When I installed my 12 v compressor in the rear, I ran 10 mm sq twin cable from the auxilliary battery to the back of my 80 and have a 120 amp anderson pair as the primary connector for everything in the back behind the second row seats. There is a fuse at the aux battery and every 'branch' at the back from the anderson connector is also seperately fused.

I have a 50 amp anderson near the LHS barn door in case I need to power anything external when parked anywhere.

Note that I don't have a powered fridge/freezer in the 80 but if I did I'd re-work all the numbers though I think the existing setup will suffice.

Craig.

I didn’t honestly understand what you were saying or how it pertained to my problem but I think I get it how.

So my best guess is that I need to install a heavier gauges wire from my fuse block to the power port. I Think I ran some 16 and 14 awg cables from the fuse block. I don’t have any 10awg and would need to order it unless I can source 12 awg locally. First I will plug into my 14awg connection and see if that does anything.

From ARB web site

“
WHY DOES MY FRIDGE ONLY WORK ON 120V AND NOT WHEN IT’S PLUGGED INTO MY CAR’S 12V?
Most power outlets on newer vehicles do not offer a full 12.6 volt when off due to improper wiring gauge for the application. ARB Fridge Freezers use a low voltage cutoff that prevents the fridge from running if it detects a low voltage. This feature ensures the fridge freezer will prevent your starting battery from going completely flat. If your vehicle wiring is not adequate, ARB offers a stand-alone wiring harness (10900027) that is compatible with all ARB Fridge Freezers.
HOW MANY AMPS DOES THE ARB FRIDGE FREEZER DRAW?
Amp draw depends on how often the compressor needs to run to maintain the set temperature. This will be determined by the ambient temperature, how often the fridge door is open, and the contents of the fridge. During optimal conditions, the ARB Fridge Freezer will draw under 1.5A to maintain the set temperature.”

 

[Snobud]

Ok.. onward and downward I go. Seriously is there a door ajar dash indicator light? I have read through some posts about this mysterious door open dash icon and also apparently the seat belts have a warning buzzer and well.. none of those things work for me so does anyone have a picture of this dash icon for the door open Symbol? Of course my D dash icon is also dead but I just haven’t had a good enough reason to go messing around in there yet!

I am trying to track down a short in my courtesy door rear LH system. I suspect there is a short somewhere under the driver kick plate since my husband was messing around in there recently. I am not reading any electrical current at the switch and I have no polarity between the switch and light socket.. so realistically Maybe the short is in the rear LH pillar or kick plate. The Rear hatch Door switch also doesn't Trigger the dome light system either but that Is next on the agenda.

I haven’t figured out how to detach the door switch female and male plugs at the BN2 connectors.. Any suggestions?