Need a little windshield advice...wwyd?

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Recent trip to Canada, rock was thrown into my windshield which of course turned into a crack. Insurance covers it, no deductible, but they won’t pay for factory glass. Their vendor uses PPG (or another brand that I can’t recall) from what he told me. It was not Safelite.

Now I am a little OCD (matching glass manufacturers windshield/doors) but also coming from the Jeep world I have had to replace a few windshields and none were as good as the factory windshield.

I was given the options of having them install the PPG type brand with no expenses out of pocket and that was almost $500 total or paying the difference to have the factory glass installed, so an additional $475 out of my pocket.

My LC is a 2007, no rust, Fl vehicle, low miles. I plan on keeping it for a long time. I am leaning towards paying for the factory glass. Would you all do the same or go with the PPG?

Also should the molding around the windshield be replaced? Ten years old, now would be the time to do it. Anything else I should look for or replace just because?
 
Factory glass is cost prohibitive, IMO. I have PPG replacements in my 02 LX and my 05 GX. Both are very good, with the proper shade/tint. I did have to replace both left and right moldings on the LX. Expensive at ~$180 each list price. (I found them from an online Toyota dealer for ~$120 each).

A good windshield installer is just as important as the glass. My windshield shop said they highly recommend having these done in the shop instead of mobile.
 
Tough call. For Lexus, I'd get factory glass. Toyota? Tough call. I'm in the same boat. Existing Toyota glass is cracked and will need replacement soon. $475 is a lot of satisfy OCD. PPG is good stuff.

Windshield moulding: Absolutely replace with new factory stuff, no question in my mind. My Supra has that stuff discontinued and unavailable. I'd pay triple regular price to get a full set now. Take advantage while it's available new now.
 
I just had my LX done, with aftermarket glass (I can't recall which brand, but it looks nice). The side moldings absolutely need to be replaced in my opinion and it's part of the job. AMICA covered the whole bill for about $800-900, with my windshield coverage. Sadly, more insurers only allow for aftermarket parts once cars reach a certain age, in best case scenario. A good installer is really needed for 100 series, the proper sized rivets should and installed properly to change of wind leakage.
 
Even PPG I'm sure is going to be DOT563 made in China. I tried three different DOT563 windshields, all from different manufacturers, all were wavy, distorted, horrible night light refraction. I settled on one because I was sick of the shop cutting them out and OEM glass was weeks away. I wish I had paid the extra for OEM and I will next time I replace.
 
Side moldings can be removed with care, but care is not something you often see in a corporate shop anymore. IMHO, the installer's skill and adherence to factory procedure is more important than the glass used. Factory glass is worthless if the install isn't done right, PPG glass is fine if the procedures are followed to the letter. Make sure they get the correct plastic-coated rivets for the trim (or just buy them yourself, a box of 10 is cheap), and that they touch up ANY scratches, especially along the edges of the frame area. Many installers will use two-sided tape in the drip channels to re-install the side trims. Some folks say that is the best way. Myself, I didn't feel like it gave the pieces a good enough bond to the body, I used 3M body sealer to seal it all up tight.
 
I asked the local Lexus dealer about an OEM windshield replacement and they said there were none left in the country.
 
Just had OEM glass done. 04’ LX. $1,050 at the Lexus dealer with new mouldings. Pleasanton, CA.

I’m very happy. I debated, but based on the low miles of the car and I didn’t want more road noise, I decided OEM was best for the price.
 
I asked the local Lexus dealer about an OEM windshield replacement and they said there were none left in the country.

I was told the same, glass had to come direct from Japan. AGC now is made and DOT'd in Indonesia Toyota OEM.
 
I always prefer OEM glass. Just make sure you get a qualified installer who understands the rivets... bad installations are worse than aftermarket glass. I live in Canada and a lot of windshields get cracked, so I can understand choosing a cheaper brand (a windshield is a replacement part in Alberta).
 
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Just had mine done this week! All parts came from Toyota, both side moldings and top molding and the special aluminum rivets. Windshield says Toyota on it instead of Lexus... Cost me $0.00 from the Lexus dealer. I had a crack and was covered by insurance.. My dad has a aftermarket windshield in his LX470 and it makes noise on the interstate and is very annoying.
 
If you've OEM glass in now, they (insurance) owes you OEM glass. Make more calls!

It's been said OEM glass is thicker, IDK. It's been said OEM is distortion free, perhaps, certainly better than some AM (after market) glass.

I can say OEM glass has two thinking AM glass does not:
  1. Hangers or mounting blocks, one on each side that fit into small catches on body. These catches have a hole that enter interior of cabin along roof line. They insure windshield is perfectly aligned. Installer experienced with these 100 series hangers, will tape off hole, to dam urethane. Failure to tape off hole when using AM glass may result in a leak.
  2. OEM comes with mirror mount, insuring proper alignment.
Personally I'm more concerned with the procedure.

I've yet to see nor do I think shops' including Dealers' uses the procedure spelled out in the FSM. It's a long cumbersome procedure, that's not cost effective for a shop/installer. Additionally most Dealers just have someone like Safelite on call, which comes to the lot/Dealer to install. These installers do many different makes and model using same procedure for all, that is fastest method, without knowledge of our rigs particulars.

I always insist on new side molding:
Most installers damage molding during removal of glass.
  1. They don't remove inside/cabin molding. Not a big deal but it will sometimes be damaged, but generally not visible when install complete.
  2. They damage lower molding fasteners that are molded to the molding itself. They just yank the molding off, rather than un-clipping tabs breaking them. I'm not speaking about the fasteners that are replaceable along the bottom, which they rarely replace with the OEM.
  3. They punch/drill through old rivets of side molding, through molding and "A" pillar. Rather than just drilling off head of rivet carefully.
  4. They yank off side molding, bending metal frame within molding.
We've a design issue according to installers:

Design of our rigs and carelessness of installer are cause future rust potential:
  1. The series 100 has 6 bump outs along roof line. These are part of the bodies metal molding process to aid in give roof stiffness/rigidity. As Installer runs his razor blade around cutting old urethane down to smooth thin surface, they nick these bump outs. These nicks in paint expose body metal. Many installs then paint with wrong type of paint, if at all.
  2. Some (a few) installers use metal tools to pry off molding that's glued on by old urethane. What can I say!
I've laid out a number of issues I've become familiar with just during removal. There is more; Install of molding itself is where they really fail us, I find most all do wrong. They as most here know will drill new holes, very bad. If that not bad enough, they leave holes open to air and water entry.

For these reasons and more, I remove and install all molding myself including interior molding. Furthermore, I don't sit in the lobby sipping coffee any-longer. No, I watch everything they do. I've had a number of redoes, replaced and repair many side molds and a few lower moldings. I've also repair the rust caused by improper install and it's no fun.

Bye Bye to The King See posts starting with #193

Just scored a 2007 LC see posts starting with #193

Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration) See posts starting with #249

More links, with issue from windshield leaks & rust:

Windshield Leak and rust....

HELP! Junction Block/Windshield Leak

Windshield Noise - HELP

You'll find many threads on the issues of windshield install. Arm yourself in prep to argue your case with insurance, and what it may cost them if they don't give whats right today!
 
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Great, now my anxiety is in play. Good info, thank you.

The dealership told me the place that they send vehicles to has been doing business with them for over 20 years. Maybe a call to this shop is in order.
 
Getting all the OEM parts is key, then you have to find someone familiar with these trucks.

The second part is the hard part.
 
I'm about to do my windshield as well, I noticed a bit of bubbling in the paint near the drivers A-pillar and I want that taken care of ASAP.

I'm sourcing all the trim parts now and can't seem to find the rivets on any toyota parts schematic. Does anyone have a part number?

EDIT: I found these:

Toyota Moulding Attachment Rivet 90269-04053 Landcruiser

can anyone confirm if they are the correct part?


I have an aftermarket WS in now and i have no idea how it was installed so I am preparing to do an entire rip out and rebuild. I pretty much found anything related to the windshield and put it in my cart, this is what that looks like so far:

Dam Part Number: 64813-52010 Upper, Right and Lower Dam $9.43 each
Dam Part Number: 56117-60050 $6.82 (Lower)
Windshield Trim, RIGHT Part Number: 75533-60060 $131.92 (Exterior W/ roof rack)
Windshield Trim, LEFT Part Number: 75534-60050 $131.92 (Exterior W/ roof rack)
Windshield Trim, RIGHT/LEFT Part Number: 75543-60020 $15.32 (x2) INTERIOR TRIM
Windshield Trim Part Number: 75531-60030 $27.82 (Upper Exterior)
I am going to have the body shop get the glass.

All prices as of 11/09/17 at toyotaofdallas.com

Am I missing anything? Is this overkill?
 
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If you've OEM glass in now, they (insurance) owes you OEM glass. Make more calls!

It's been said OEM glass is thicker, IDK. It's been said OEM is distortion free, perhaps, certainly better than some AM (after market) glass.

I can say OEM glass has two thinking AM glass does not:
  1. Hangers or mounting blocks, one on each side that fit into small catches on body. These catches have a hole that enter interior of cabin along roof line. They insure windshield is perfectly aligned. Installer experienced with these 100 series hangers, will tape off hole, to dam urethane. Failure to tape off hole when using AM glass may result in a leak.
  2. OEM comes with mirror mount, insuring proper alignment.

In many cases, most insurances have it written deep in their fine print and policies that that comparable aftermarket parts can be used to repair your vehicle. For some of the better companies, you can fight with them and possibly get what you want. Usually after they hit a certain number or miles of age, it's common practice for aftermarket parts. Many times, dealers will eat the cost to upgrade you to a OEM part if they can still make money on the total job. Just been my experience when dealing with insurance and working in cars for a while.
 
Just called around, found someone that has done these and seemed to know about the nuances. He mentioned that they use fiber cord to cut out the windshield instead of any type of knife. He also said that they run a bead of urethane (iirc) to set the glass into the molding.
 
Yep. When I went through this last year, my '07 was out of the age window for State Farm to replace with OEM glass. I went with Safelite, and they went to bat with the insurance to replace all the molding needed to do the install correctly. They convinced the insurance peeps that they couldn't guarantee the install to be leak-free with the old molding. Totally worth talking to the actual installer if you can. If you can't, switch shops. My local Safelite guy knew all the trouble spots, had done many of the 100-series windshields, and did a great job. He even fixed all the rust under the windshield. Safelite has been hit-and-miss on 'MUD, but I had a good experience.

In my neck of the woods and for the kind of driving I do, broken windshields are a fact of life. It happens way too often to even consider OEM glass on my dime. Find a good installer with a good warranty. Glass brand (for me) is a distant third place. As long as it is clear and distortion free, just run it until it breaks again.
 
Yep. When I went through this last year, my '07 was out of the age window for State Farm to replace with OEM glass. I went with Safelite, and they went to bat with the insurance to replace all the molding needed to do the install correctly. They convinced the insurance peeps that they couldn't guarantee the install to be leak-free with the old molding. Totally worth talking to the actual installer if you can. If you can't, switch shops. My local Safelite guy knew all the trouble spots, had done many of the 100-series windshields, and did a great job. He even fixed all the rust under the windshield. Safelite has been hit-and-miss on 'MUD, but I had a good experience.

In my neck of the woods and for the kind of driving I do, broken windshields are a fact of life. It happens way too often to even consider OEM glass on my dime. Find a good installer with a good warranty. Glass brand (for me) is a distant third place. As long as it is clear and distortion free, just run it until it breaks again.
I too have had some good and some bad with Safelite. One thing that concern me with safelite is after grinned out rust, I've seen them and they've given me a product to paint bare metal with. It is Sika primer. If they used this primer to cover bare metal, you've a problem. Go back and asked to see what they used, if you don't know!
 

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