Nebraska Cruisers Introductions
- Thread starter Jrob80
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Greetings all -
Living in Papillion, and getting into a LC with my first Toyota purchase.
The seller recently posted this truck a few months back in the forums asking what fair market was. I didn't expect to win the auction, was in the middle of getting through Covid and threw a bid out, not sure if the lack of original color and the accident history scared everyone away, but I'm super happy with the soundness mechanically, recent repairs, and the paint quality on the vehicle. The supercharger got me.
Link to auction and more pictures than needed: BAT LC Auction
The truck was recently baselined with fluids all changed this year before the sale, and the engine compartment looks great as you can see in the photos.
The prior two owners used a Toyota dealer for everything but tires, so I have pretty complete records of all the updates for last decade+.
I haven't checked out the PHH yet to see how that looks, but will over winter.
I just completed painting the wheel center caps to match the Ds on the wheels (graphite), so will throw those back on here shortly.
I don't plan on turning this into something to go wheeling, just maybe a bit more clearance. We take family trips to Colorado 1-2 times a summer for a week to the front rage, and occasionally to the Black Hills, not sure what is around there--- I'm used to being on foot or on a Polaris.
Winter plans:
*Repainted center wheel caps
*Installed Weathertech mats
*Ceramic coating on exterior
*Replacement HIR bulbs, side marker/turn signal modules from Daniel Stern Lighting
*CDL switch install
*Installation of ARB or similar looking front bumper (no winch for now)
*Install Koito fog lamps
on bumper
*Conversion of ashtray to switches/temp blanks from Wits End
*Evaluate 2.5" OME options (want to leave stock rear bumper, not sure on what combo (light/heavy) to buy need to read)
*31-33" tires on stock wheels once lifted - new tires in 1/2020 so have some time
Those are the idea for now to tweak her a bit, but in such good shape so no urgency on my part. Won't be a daily driver.
Just learning about a new platform and ride and from all of the forum recs on how and what-to.
I also have to change out the electrical on my mustang, and finishing my basement, so plenty of projects during COVID.
Looking forward to meeting people down the road and visiting Russ's shop when the need arises.
Welcome to ANY suggestions on the above initial tweaks.
Cheers,
Greg
Living in Papillion, and getting into a LC with my first Toyota purchase.
The seller recently posted this truck a few months back in the forums asking what fair market was. I didn't expect to win the auction, was in the middle of getting through Covid and threw a bid out, not sure if the lack of original color and the accident history scared everyone away, but I'm super happy with the soundness mechanically, recent repairs, and the paint quality on the vehicle. The supercharger got me.
Link to auction and more pictures than needed: BAT LC Auction
The truck was recently baselined with fluids all changed this year before the sale, and the engine compartment looks great as you can see in the photos.
The prior two owners used a Toyota dealer for everything but tires, so I have pretty complete records of all the updates for last decade+.
I haven't checked out the PHH yet to see how that looks, but will over winter.
I just completed painting the wheel center caps to match the Ds on the wheels (graphite), so will throw those back on here shortly.
I don't plan on turning this into something to go wheeling, just maybe a bit more clearance. We take family trips to Colorado 1-2 times a summer for a week to the front rage, and occasionally to the Black Hills, not sure what is around there--- I'm used to being on foot or on a Polaris.
Winter plans:
*Repainted center wheel caps
*Installed Weathertech mats
*Ceramic coating on exterior
*Replacement HIR bulbs, side marker/turn signal modules from Daniel Stern Lighting
*CDL switch install
*Installation of ARB or similar looking front bumper (no winch for now)
*Install Koito fog lamps
*Conversion of ashtray to switches/temp blanks from Wits End
*Evaluate 2.5" OME options (want to leave stock rear bumper, not sure on what combo (light/heavy) to buy need to read)
*31-33" tires on stock wheels once lifted - new tires in 1/2020 so have some time
Those are the idea for now to tweak her a bit, but in such good shape so no urgency on my part. Won't be a daily driver.
Just learning about a new platform and ride and from all of the forum recs on how and what-to.
I also have to change out the electrical on my mustang, and finishing my basement, so plenty of projects during COVID.
Looking forward to meeting people down the road and visiting Russ's shop when the need arises.
Welcome to ANY suggestions on the above initial tweaks.
Cheers,
Greg
Welcome! I'm down the street in Granite Lake (105th and Lincoln). I feel like I've seen that 80 around. I can't provide much technical input to the 80 series but I love all Land Cruisers equally.
welcome from Kearney! my brother lives in Omaha so maybe i'll see you driving around some time. Congratulations on the new truck
liven the life
SILVER Star
Welcome to the LC life, it's addictive. I just came back from an LC get-together down in Tutle creek KS, those 80's are great trucks and a great find when you can get a clean low mileage truck like that. Pretty sure you live right down the street, seen the mustang several times beautiful car too.
I'm over by Werner Park in North Shore - sounds like you guys are close. Good to see lots of neighbors to bounce things off of!
The mustang is fun, got it >20 years ago. I was about ready to repaint, mom backed into it back home, so they felt guilty and paid for it.
Nothing special on it, but they are fun to wrench on. (and easy/relatively cheap)
Greetings from Walton, NE. I've had a few 80 series. Always a good truck.
corn man
SILVER Star
Don't hesitate to reach out to anyone directly if you don't get a response on the local clubhouse scene as sometimes the clubhouse area gets lost. I'd love to take a look at it (and your storage lift!) next time I'm in OMA. The nice thing about local 'cruiser people (and 'Mud in general) is the willingness to help each other out no matter your particular taste or its intended use of it is. Part of the reason I bought mine 13 yrs ago was the helpfulness of the people and this site. Congrats!
Certainly! I really like the lift, Advantage, ships from either MN or KS. Really well built. Neighbor had his hellcat on it and so I got lots of time with it before bought one. "Had" to buy an engine hoist to put it together without bribing 7 friends to help during covid. Works with the mustang well, but I think the frame on the mustang is a touch too narrow for the rolling jack so should be interested.
So, got the hubs painted, on way back from Owner's Pride after getting a ceramic on, and of course the engine light comes on! LOL
So it begins.....I also need to change out the airbag ECU this winter.
@solomrus or I guess anyone, do these 97 '80s run codes or have a OBD port? Haven't gotten that far yet so hoping just a bad sensor or something, the engine bay has almost had everything replaced.
Finally got the code run.
Latest work around the cooling system before I bought the truck in November:
10/2020: Radiator end cracked and leaking-replaced/new radiator.
9/2020: Coolant service/flush
1/2016: Engine light - Coolant temp sensor and thermostat replaced. Receipt below. Same code as before on additional diagnostic sheets P0116.
Additionally the air bag ECU was determined to be bad by Toyota dealer in 2018, prior owner never replaced.
Is that a hard job, or just tedious? Was thinking of tracking down an ECU and doing myself over winter if not too terrible (60's mustangs don't have a ton of electronics, lol).
Am i visiting @solomrus shop or is this and the airbag doable winter fixes for me? Let's say my skill level is 4/5 on a 1-10 scale.
quick reply for you.
i've seen some ugly under these 1fz intake manifolds when it comes to wiring. two specific things come to mind. poorly repaired harness to knock sensor plug (badly soldered and shorting), as well as a temp sensor that was twisted and taped, that corroded apart. this is just anecdotal, what you find when you dig into the old harness' when everything else fails.
so, two pronged attack. the FSM says to FIRST CHECK THE THERMOSTAT for operation. if the coolant temp is too low after starting over a specific amount of time, the ecm will code the output from the sensor. temp rise over time has to fit the parms. so, if your t-stat is stuck open, it will not reach operating temp in the expected amount of time. that could be one source of the code, and possibly the simplest to diagnose.
if that fails, i would thoroughly inspect the harness from the plug back as far as you can trace it. i have also seen these wires disintegrate from corrosion and fail abruptly. re-pin the connector and cut out the bad wire and replace with new is also a good idea.
if THAT turns up nothing, then i'm replacing the sensor. denso replacement from rock auto, or OEM parts. your call there.
this is the only code, correct?
--r
i've seen some ugly under these 1fz intake manifolds when it comes to wiring. two specific things come to mind. poorly repaired harness to knock sensor plug (badly soldered and shorting), as well as a temp sensor that was twisted and taped, that corroded apart. this is just anecdotal, what you find when you dig into the old harness' when everything else fails.
so, two pronged attack. the FSM says to FIRST CHECK THE THERMOSTAT for operation. if the coolant temp is too low after starting over a specific amount of time, the ecm will code the output from the sensor. temp rise over time has to fit the parms. so, if your t-stat is stuck open, it will not reach operating temp in the expected amount of time. that could be one source of the code, and possibly the simplest to diagnose.
if that fails, i would thoroughly inspect the harness from the plug back as far as you can trace it. i have also seen these wires disintegrate from corrosion and fail abruptly. re-pin the connector and cut out the bad wire and replace with new is also a good idea.
if THAT turns up nothing, then i'm replacing the sensor. denso replacement from rock auto, or OEM parts. your call there.
this is the only code, correct?
--r
It is the only code flagging. I'm never running codes, first time playing with this.
Can I tell anything by watching the live feed as the vehicle warms up to see if the thermostat is working as intended?
yup, if your scan tool will show engine data, you can watch the output from the coolant sensor. should show up as coolant temp.
if it's the first startup, it *should* start at close to the ambient, then go up linearly from there to operating temp. if it never reaches operating temp, then start with the t-stat. (toyota p/n 90916-03117 for the tstat and 16346-66020 for the gasket). swapping it's not too difficult.
however, if the temp reading never changes, it could then be the sensor or the wiring to the sensor.
clear as mud? ;^)
--r
if it's the first startup, it *should* start at close to the ambient, then go up linearly from there to operating temp. if it never reaches operating temp, then start with the t-stat. (toyota p/n 90916-03117 for the tstat and 16346-66020 for the gasket). swapping it's not too difficult.
however, if the temp reading never changes, it could then be the sensor or the wiring to the sensor.
clear as mud? ;^)
--r
Decided to go run some errands tonight and take the OBD2 reader with.
Cold start, got up to 192-194 F for the ECT reading, stayed there, usually right at 194. Didn't waver.
15 minutes largely interstate and stop and go.
Sat for 15 minutes, started up, engine light still on, drove over to Northern Tool to grab a 48" snow pusher "needed it".
On way there actually saw a beautiful baby blue 40 I think it was, at HuHot, plates were WEZ 506 or something close to that. Anyone here?
Started back up light still on, go to Menards.
Come back out, Light is off, didn't come back on, reading 194 the whole way home for 15 min.
I don't recall pushing 'clear codes' or anything.
Would you just leave it be?
Got the upgraded lights from Daniel Stern today, and the side blinker module, etc...winter project.
Also need to order the rest of the outside lights from his links.
I want to do the airbag ECU, wanting to know where people recommend sourcing?
Dash/instrument panel cup holder, source? The one that fits in that blank.
PHH, is that worth doing just to do? Seems like most have. Would use the gates green I suppose.
CDL switch? I thought I saw a link, but now can't find, and toyota site doesn't seem to like.
Thanks all, thinking of just starting a thread with my adventures with this truck, something along the lines of "The mustang is simpler to work on..."
Cheers,
Greg
from what i know, which, admittedly isn't much, if the condition that threw the code doesn't occur for X amount of drive cycles then the ecm will turn off the light.
doesn't always mean that it has fixed itself, just means that it didn't happen for a while. keep your eyes open to see if it comes back. intermittent issues are troublesome to track down. sounds like the t-stat is functioning according to your observations.
been a daniel stern follower for a long time. good info there, and putting some of his theory into practice yields great improvements to your lighting system.
i don't think anyone *wants* to do the PHH. 8^) not my favorite 80 series project. i'd almost rather replace the throttle valve cable from the trans to the throttle body, and that job SUCKS.
CDL switch is easy. Pin 7 the trans controller and plug in the switch. cake. then figure out of your viscous coupler is going out. mine was shot, so i just deleted it. makes a great door stop.
--r
doesn't always mean that it has fixed itself, just means that it didn't happen for a while. keep your eyes open to see if it comes back. intermittent issues are troublesome to track down. sounds like the t-stat is functioning according to your observations.
been a daniel stern follower for a long time. good info there, and putting some of his theory into practice yields great improvements to your lighting system.
i don't think anyone *wants* to do the PHH. 8^) not my favorite 80 series project. i'd almost rather replace the throttle valve cable from the trans to the throttle body, and that job SUCKS.
CDL switch is easy. Pin 7 the trans controller and plug in the switch. cake. then figure out of your viscous coupler is going out. mine was shot, so i just deleted it. makes a great door stop.
--r
brettk
SILVER Star
Happy Thanksgiving, and a hello from Imperial. My wife and I moved here a couple of months ago from TN. We currently own
a 94 LC
and an 89 pickup.
a 94 LC
and an 89 pickup.