NC LX450

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So today I've...
-Untaped a few parts I sprayed in Black.
-Picked up and pressed race's in the hubs.
-Mounted the hubs to the rotors and dropped them off to be turned.
-Ordered new Dust Caps and Caliper Bolts from Toyota.
-Purchased 12 new stainless M8x1.25 to compliment the shiny new dust cap... Just Because.

I hope to get the Spindles installed tonight.

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Spindles installed and torqued.

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Update: Completed a 400 mile round trip from Chapel Hill to Black Mountian. The 80 handled awesome and drove better than it has since I purchased it in 2014. 70mph with cruise, zero vibrations.
 
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Heading back Saturday morning I checked FB marketplace to see if there was anything I might have an interest in. I stopped by and picked up a non working 12k Chinese winch with wireless remote for $75.

The guy said it was new(and looking at the cable it appears so), but he said after he installed it he was playing with it and it started smoking. It's obvious it pulled more amps than the wire is rated for. Ive seen Chinese wire appear to be 4ga, but to save cost, when compared to American wire it appears more like 6ga or even 8ga. I don't know anything else about how it happened but looking at the wire I'm surprised he didn't burn his truck down. Even if it was 4ga, it should of been 2ga.


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I've bench tested the motor and it works. I also bench rested the solenoids and they work to. I could probably add new wire and it be fine. I've fixed a few of these winches in the past and the solenoids seem to always be the failure point. I'm going to go through it and beef up the control box. The plan is to upgrade the solenoids to the newer Warn type, seal the box watertight, add 2ga wire and synthetic rope.

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Be careful with the synthetic rope mod. If the winch has its brake inside the drum it can actually melt the synthetic winch line. The winch has to be specific for synthetic line.
 
NC LX said:
So today I've...
-Untaped a few parts I sprayed in Black.
-Picked up and pressed race's in the hubs.
-Mounted the hubs to the rotors and dropped them off to be turned.
-Ordered new Dust Caps and Caliper Bolts from Toyota.
-Purchased 12 new stainless M8x1.25 to compliment the shiny new dust cap... Just Because.

I hope to get the Spindles installed tonight.

View attachment 1434032

Spindles installed and torqued.

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Update: Completed a 400 mile round trip from Chapel Hill to Black Mountian. The 80 handled awesome and drove better than it has since I purchased it in 2014. 70mph with cruise, zero vibrations.
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That black on red is pure Cruiser Pron! Nice work on the axle!!
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Be careful with the synthetic rope mod. If the winch has its brake inside the drum it can actually melt the synthetic winch line. The winch has to be specific for synthetic line.
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Didn't realize this. Thanks for the heads up!
 
NC LX said:
...... The plan is to upgrade the solenoids to the newer Warn type, seal the box watertight, add 2ga wire and synthetic rope.
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Since you posted this and obviously know (lots) more than I......I thought you couldn't seal the box to make it watertight if they weren't designed that way originally - that they needed some sort of passive heat escape/exchange inside the box. Or can you make the box watertight and not worry about it? thanks.
 
pawwright said:
Since you posted this and obviously know (lots) more than I......I thought you couldn't seal the box to make it watertight if they weren't designed that way originally - that they needed some sort of passive heat escape/exchange inside the box. Or can you make the box watertight and not worry about it? thanks.
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Ha, thanks. I'm not so sure about that, but thanks. Great point though and I do have plans to address that issue. I'm going to add a small threaded nipple and use some of the small vacuum line I had left over and run it up by my battery. Also I solder the terminals and add a good layer of dielectric grease on all the terminals/connections. I have heard both sides of the debate and I honestly don't know. I guess in a perfect situation the solenoid could produce enough heat to need a though out plan for heat escape. It seems like the solenoid enclosure has enough flex to allow for this though.
 
I Finished replacing the solenoid and added a wireless controller tonight.

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Winch is mounted on a universal Harbor Freight winch plate. I still need to figure out how I want to lay everything out at the battery, but it's tested and working.

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All in I'm in it for around $160 for a 12k winch mounted. Johnny made a good point about how this winch may not be compatible with synthetic rope and I'd rather not put any more money into it. The cable is new and chances of me needing to use a winch right now isn't very high. I'll just leave it as is for now.

Few More updates: I had to cock the clutch to clear the trans cooler. After I mocked everything in place, it was taken apart, everything was generously lubricated and reassembled.

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NC LX said:
Didn't realize this. Thanks for the heads up!
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This is in addition to the syn line being an insulator that holds heat rather than a steel line that helps pull heat away from the drum.
 
Rice said:
This is in addition to the syn line being an insulator that holds heat rather than a steel line that helps pull heat away from the drum.
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I hadn't thought about that. The 2nd law of Thermodynamics at work. ...And I thought I would never use all that thermo.
 
Bumper 2.0

Well heres where I am at. Reinstalled it this evening. The original plan was to recess the middle section of the bumper so it sits flush against the fairlead mount. @Izzyandsue made a great point about being able to have access the winch. Thinking about this, I only capped off next to the fairlead. Since you can't see above the fairlead standing next to it I left it open to give me that access to the clutch and anything other reason to access the winch.

Also shaved the bolts on the top. My body work is :notworthy: The metallic has a way of amplifying everything you miss that you don't see sanding at 1am. I'll fix it on Bumper 3.0. I have plans to remove the current lights and flush a nice set of cree amber cube spots in.


Now that I have Frank set up for a winch, its time to Buy a real winch and get rid of this Chinese junk.


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stevezero said:
That is kickass!!! a license plate, and that is totally stealthy.

Great job
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I have an :idea: to use the section that I cut out and flush mount it over the opening. I'm still trying to figure out the bracket. Stay tuned
 
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@weejub your dual battery thread has inspired me. Ive cleaned up my connections at the battery so its time to head to the back.
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Before Hurricane Creek I've decided to take the next month and build out behind my rear passenger panel. I do at least one weekend and a few over nighters a month so it's something I've been planning on doing to better suit my needs.

This morning I woke up at 4, had a cup of coffee with Frank and began stripping everything away for measurements. From the black line over is the space I have that will clear the panel.
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I currently have:
-Group 27 house battery
-100amp circuit breaker
-4awg going to rear panel

Things to be added are:
-NOCO charger with flush plug
-10A solar controller( adding it for future panels),
-Blue sea fuse box
-Blue sea solenoid with remote switch
-Pure sine wave inverter.
-Access door for fuse box

On the way:
-Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

-Amazon.com: NOCO Genius GCP1 Black 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug: Automotive

-Amazon.com: Noco Genius Genm1 4A 1 Bank Onboard Battery Charger (Part #Genm1 By Noco): GPS & Navigation

-5" x 7" Wallo ADP-0705 Plastic Access Door, Reinforced | eBay


I'm not sure which Blue Sea solenoid to purchase. It seems there is a few variations and I'm not sure which one best suits my needs.

Still currently looking for a pure sine wave inverter to add. I currently have a 400w under my console so it would be nice to double what I have.

Plans for the solar panel is to add a quick connect plug thats wired to the solar controller. When camping i can plug it in and aim it towards the sun.
 
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Mocked up the mounting area in some cardboard, then transferred it to some 22 gauge sheet metal.


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Mounting is done by the 4 OEM threaded inserts.

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I still need to decide on the inverter. Once when I get it I'll be able to lay everything out.
 
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jamesurq said:
Out of curiousity why are you looking at pure sign wave invertors?
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in short, pure sine wave inverters are better suited to sensitive electrical or electronic items such as laptop computers, stereos, laser printers, certain specialized applications such as medical equipment.

I have no plans to run a laser printer camping primitive so I've decided a modified sine wave will work well for what I want, and they’re more economical. Running lights, TV, microwave oven, tools, and what ever else from my tailgate, a modified sine wave inverter will meet my needs.

Hmm... undecided as I type this. I'm still going to look for a pure sine wave. Motors and lights will run more efficient.
 
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