My wheel ROCKS!

[LandCruiserPhil]

Good post Drew
Preload is the key - set it up right and it will last. The only thing I do differently is the torque on the outer nut. I use an impact putting me in the 70lb range with loctite. Large tires at high speeds are hard on wheel bearings and I have the outer nut come loose before. The ending preload is the same about 10lbs.
I'm not recomending this just sharing ones experiance.

Phil

 

[Doc]

I just got off the phone with the Dan-man

For the 60- Clutch kit and rear main seal, Antenna, struts.

For the 80- Birf job kit and bearings, c-diff lock switch, power antenna assembly, and 94 FSM.

All the tools are ordered from E-bay or sears. I should be set to go pretty soon I guess.

 

[Doc]

Well, the truck has been sitting for over two weeks, and I'm still waiting on the brass drifts to arrive so I can knock the races off.

But, last night I pulled the outer hub off and checked the lock nuts.

The outer lock nut was just barely hand tight, the lock washer was not bent over at all, and the inner lock nut was spinning freely. I didn't have a fish scale so I didn't check pre load after I tightened them up.

I torqued the inner nut to 40 something ft lbs then rotated the wheel a couple of times, backed the nut off and re-tourqed to about 6 ft lbs. then re-installed the old lock washer and outer lock nut to spec.

No more wheel rocking.

But I am weeping oil/grease on the back side of the knuckle, so I do need to get in there and do a full service, it's on the schedule for this weekend. But I got the wheel to quit rocking, and got it back on the road for a couple of days, which was my goal.

Oh, about those cone washers... What's the big deal about them again? I loosened the nuts to the end of the studs, then whacked on the hub a couple of times with my 3# brass hammer and they basically fell out.

Seriously- wansn't an issue at all.

I hope the rest of the service goes that smoothly when I dig into it later on this week.

 

[GXO]

told ya the brass hammer makes it a cake walk .

Looks like you had a knuckle wanting to fall off.

When you rebuild, examine the spindle, birf, and the rotor and caliper for damage.

The wheel wobble you felt was your whole knuckle trying to come off the axle housing and being retained in place by your caliper.

Good thing you investigated

 

[scottm]

[quote author=Cruiserdrew link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164877#msg164877 date=1085632611]I just bought a really nice scale from Marlin Crawler (thanks Chris) to do the same job and it was only $10.[/quote]

Digital? If so how many decimal places and what's the range? I just convinced the boss we need one for the shop, just in time for my birf job

 

[Cruiserdrew]

[quote author=Scott M. link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg171888#msg171888 date=1086799298]
Digital? If so how many decimal places and what's the range? I just convinced the boss we need one for the shop, just in time for my birf job
[/quote]

Scott-you want digital for $10?? Where are we Harbor Freight? Seriously, though the scale from Marlin is a nicely built unit but it is just a spring scale with an aluminum barrel and a good handle. It is miles better than the Zebco $6 fish scale I have been using for years. One of my friends uses a trigger pull scale for this operation-digital, calibrated, accurate to 3 decimal places, solid industrial design-very nice. I think it costs as much as I paid for my FJ60.

 

[e9999]

good idea. A digital trigger scale is around $40 or so IIRC. Probably handles up to 20 lbs. Look at any of the many shooting accessories online places. Lyman is one brand that comes to mind...
E

 

[Riley]

Getting the preload set to 3 decimal places is over kill. Your lucky to get it to within one foot pound. This because the force required to get it to turn initially is higher than once it's turning. This means it's kind of tricky to get the measurement. Having a digital scale to 3 places is going to make it difficult to measure.

I think this is a strong case for the good old analog world.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Dan,

I don't see the "knuckle falling off" here at all. Just loose wheelbearings from some bozo that didn't bend the tabs on the lockring.

I had the same experience with the cone washers. They all came off with less than a half dozen hits on average. For someone who knows such things, I'm curious if I did the right thing by lubing them with grease when I reinstalled them. All they do is center the axle shaft, so lubing them SHOULD simply ensure they settle all the way into their tapered holes. Of course they secure the drive plate also, but the taper feature is simply a centering device like tapered lug nuts on a wheel. Anyhow, good idea?

DougM

 

[ppc]

If they were conical without the slot I would say that is true but with the slot they center but also provide clamping force on the stud and distribute the load as they are forced into the taper. In any case I would use lubrication on the cones.

 

[Darwood]

I lubed mine. In fact I also lubed the studs, as well as the lugs. I really like lube. It's good for everything.