page 11
My wheel ROCKS!
- Thread starter Doc
- Start date
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page 12
Don't worry about removing the roter in step 3.
Don't worry about removing the roter in step 3.
Page 13
Page 14.
This is the important page as I understand it....make sure you preload is set correctly.
This is the important page as I understand it....make sure you preload is set correctly.
page 15
page 16
The Big Picture
The Big Picture
page 17...if you feel like hitting the birfs.
Page 10
I would't bother removing the brake line, just place it gently on the axle.
I would't bother removing the brake line, just place it gently on the axle.
[quote author=firetruck41 link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164685#msg164685 date=1085615489]
WHOA, isn't the final torque supposed to be 48 inch lbs or something?
I haven't done this yet, just trying to remember what I read. FSM says preload should be 6.4 - 12.6lb-ft with a spring tension gauge.
[/quote]
Preload, not nut torque.
check the pics above to confirm
WHOA, isn't the final torque supposed to be 48 inch lbs or something?
I haven't done this yet, just trying to remember what I read. FSM says preload should be 6.4 - 12.6lb-ft with a spring tension gauge.
[/quote]
Preload, not nut torque.
check the pics above to confirm
[quote author=DanKunz link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164174#msg164174 date=1085575568]
Promise that AT MINIMUM you get these three things tightened back to spec per the FSM:
- tighten adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., turn wheel forward and back a few times, loosen to hand tight, repeat twice, then tighten to 48 ft. lbs.
- install lock washer with tabs bent per above.
- install lock nut with same torque and procedure as adjusting nut.
[/quote]
Actuallly Dan I think you're wrong on this one. There's been quite the discussion on it, and it's probably not your fault. A neighbor of mine has a 91 FSM and it seems to be a misprint. The adjusting nut is supposed to finally end up hand tight our 60 inch pounds. The important thing is that you get the right preload...use the adjusting nut to find it, place the lock washer, then the lock nut...now check the preload again. If it's still within the specs, the push one tab over the adjusting nut, and fold one back over the locking nut and continue on. (this is page 14)
Good luck Doc.
Promise that AT MINIMUM you get these three things tightened back to spec per the FSM:
- tighten adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., turn wheel forward and back a few times, loosen to hand tight, repeat twice, then tighten to 48 ft. lbs.
- install lock washer with tabs bent per above.
- install lock nut with same torque and procedure as adjusting nut.
[/quote]
Actuallly Dan I think you're wrong on this one. There's been quite the discussion on it, and it's probably not your fault. A neighbor of mine has a 91 FSM and it seems to be a misprint. The adjusting nut is supposed to finally end up hand tight our 60 inch pounds. The important thing is that you get the right preload...use the adjusting nut to find it, place the lock washer, then the lock nut...now check the preload again. If it's still within the specs, the push one tab over the adjusting nut, and fold one back over the locking nut and continue on. (this is page 14)
Good luck Doc.
Truck41,
Good catch... you may have just saved someone from toasting brand new bearings. My 97 FSM does have the added line specifying the final torque for the adjusting nut of 48 in-lbs. You tweek that depending on what the pre-load comes out. Your numbers on the pre-load are correct too, your just missed the units...lbs.
for you.
Rookie2
Good catch... you may have just saved someone from toasting brand new bearings. My 97 FSM does have the added line specifying the final torque for the adjusting nut of 48 in-lbs. You tweek that depending on what the pre-load comes out. Your numbers on the pre-load are correct too, your just missed the units...lbs.
for you.Rookie2
- Thread starter
- #52
Ok- THIS is how small of a town I live in.
I went to Menards (like a home depot), Walmart, AutoZone, and Oreily's auto parts. NO-ONE carries brass punches or hammers.
There's a machine shop nearby- tomorrow I'll go see if they have brass stock they can cut off to use as a drift tool. Any special beveling on the edges, or just flat round stock?
I found a 54mm socket on e-bay (free shipping!).
And now, thanks to Mr. Safado, I have prelim. copies of the FSM. (If you have high res versions of those I'd love to have copes- e-mail me plz)
So, it's starting to come together.
Oh, after two hours of searching for punches all I came home with was c-clip pliers. Oh well.
I went to Menards (like a home depot), Walmart, AutoZone, and Oreily's auto parts. NO-ONE carries brass punches or hammers.
There's a machine shop nearby- tomorrow I'll go see if they have brass stock they can cut off to use as a drift tool. Any special beveling on the edges, or just flat round stock?
I found a 54mm socket on e-bay (free shipping!).
And now, thanks to Mr. Safado, I have prelim. copies of the FSM. (If you have high res versions of those I'd love to have copes- e-mail me plz)
So, it's starting to come together.
Oh, after two hours of searching for punches all I came home with was c-clip pliers. Oh well.
Harbor Freight, Northern Tool or Sears on the brass drifts. Get one at least 1/2" diameter. I quickly bent the two smaller ones in the pack. If you can find a brass hammer, it probably works better. My left index finger knuckle was twice as big by the time I got done... ping..ping.. ping.. 
, ping.. ping.. ping.. . The cone washers don't come easy. Also may have C'dan pack you a couple of extra flange studs. I bunged two up, getting the cone washers to pop off.
Rookie2
, ping.. ping.. ping.. . The cone washers don't come easy. Also may have C'dan pack you a couple of extra flange studs. I bunged two up, getting the cone washers to pop off.Rookie2
email sent with 1 mb zip file.
[quote author=Doc link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164786#msg164786 date=1085624636]
a monster 12" long, 3/4" diameter ass beater.
[/quote]
uhhh...go easy on that one there.
a monster 12" long, 3/4" diameter ass beater.
[/quote]
uhhh...go easy on that one there.
[quote author=Doc link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164786#msg164786 date=1085624636]
Oh, and I just ordered three punches from HF, the two above, and a monster 12" long, 3/4" diameter ass beater.
[/quote]
Honey ... I'm home
Oh, and I just ordered three punches from HF, the two above, and a monster 12" long, 3/4" diameter ass beater.
[/quote]
Honey ... I'm home
[quote author=Safado link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164739#msg164739 date=1085620742]
Actuallly Dan I think you're wrong on this one. There's been quite the discussion on it, and it's probably not your fault. A neighbor of mine has a 91 FSM and it seems to be a misprint. The adjusting nut is supposed to finally end up hand tight our 60 inch pounds. The important thing is that you get the right preload...use the adjusting nut to find it, place the lock washer, then the lock nut...now check the preload again. If it's still within the specs, the push one tab over the adjusting nut, and fold one back over the locking nut and continue on. (this is page 14)
Good luck Doc.
[/quote]
Dang it! Now I have to go find my book, reread, then go back into my axle!
CDan, my book says to torque it!!
91-92s should be that different should they?!
I am going back in anyway in the next week or so to replace the stripped knuckle housing (caliper bolt stripped).
May as well fix the load too, once CDan (or someone else with the 91-92 FSM) solves the riddle.
Actuallly Dan I think you're wrong on this one. There's been quite the discussion on it, and it's probably not your fault. A neighbor of mine has a 91 FSM and it seems to be a misprint. The adjusting nut is supposed to finally end up hand tight our 60 inch pounds. The important thing is that you get the right preload...use the adjusting nut to find it, place the lock washer, then the lock nut...now check the preload again. If it's still within the specs, the push one tab over the adjusting nut, and fold one back over the locking nut and continue on. (this is page 14)
Good luck Doc.
[/quote]
Dang it! Now I have to go find my book, reread, then go back into my axle!
CDan, my book says to torque it!!
91-92s should be that different should they?!
I am going back in anyway in the next week or so to replace the stripped knuckle housing (caliper bolt stripped).
May as well fix the load too, once CDan (or someone else with the 91-92 FSM) solves the riddle.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
It's funny, but this comes up all the time. The torque on the inner spindle nut DOES NOT MATTER. What matters is that there is sufficient torque to cause the preload to be within spec. Once you have adjusted the inner nut to achieve the proper preload (I think spec is 6-12 lbs measured with a pull scale on one of the lug studs at a tangent), you install the locking star washer, then the outer nut. The torque on the outer (locking) nut matters a lot. The spec is 47 foot pounds. Then recheck the preload and make sure it didn't change and is still within spec. If it changed and got tighter out of the spec, you have to start over. Once you have final torque and proper preload, bend the locking tabs over the flats of the nuts as described. I aim for a preload of 8, which usually tightens to 10 when the lock nut is tightened down to 47 foot pounds. If you remember that what matters is bearing preload, you will be fine.
OK I have my '97 FSM open now to page SA-11. Preload spec is 6.4-12.6 pounds measured with a scale on a lug stud as above. There is even a picture of this measurment on the page labled R13136. I have always used a Zebco fish scale I bought at Walmart for this measurement, but I just bought a really nice scale from Marlin Crawler (thanks Chris) to do the same job and it was only $10.
OK I have my '97 FSM open now to page SA-11. Preload spec is 6.4-12.6 pounds measured with a scale on a lug stud as above. There is even a picture of this measurment on the page labled R13136. I have always used a Zebco fish scale I bought at Walmart for this measurement, but I just bought a really nice scale from Marlin Crawler (thanks Chris) to do the same job and it was only $10.
