My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (6 Viewers)

[flintknapper]

Hi flintknapper,

Another question: Is there an easy way to remove the drum from the gear inside. I have tried a wedge between the housing and the gear inside, but that sucker is on there. I don't want to damage the housing. Any suggestions? Again, your help is greatly appreciated.

Hello Z,

I assume you moved the lockplate that holds the drum to the case into it's upward position. Otherwise the drum will not come loose. See Post #42 of this thread for an illustration.

If you have...and it still doesn't want to come free, I would suggest you use two wooden wedges and gently tap them in behind the gear as you have been doing.

The fitment of the drum to the gear is not tight. Tolerances are "generous"..so unless you have a rust issue it should come apart easily. Double check that lockplate.

 

[Skillet]

Holy shmoly.

Good work and great writeup!

 

[mmw68]

Hey Flint - Thanks for the write up - follow it and rebuilt my 8274!

Thanks - again. -Mark

 

[flintknapper]

Looks great Mark.

Excellent work.

 

[zekerd73]

Thanks for the reply Flint. You did assume right. I actually took out the brake shaft and the lock plate came out with it. There must be some rust or mud between the splines on the drum and the gear. I am taking pics as I go so I should have something to show you eventually. For now I am going to try the two wood or plastic shims. I will keep you posted.

 

[mkaustin]

OK. Finally got some time to tear into my 8274. This thing is in great shape.
There is only a little rust on the motor shaft (which made the clutch inoperable) and the brake pawl was quite gummed up w/ old grease.

I wanted to clean the case, but I can not figure out how to take out the cluster gears from the top half of the housing or what to do w/ the needle bearings in the lower half of the housing.

The inside of the case is quite clean considering that it is almost 30 year old, but I'd still like to clean the out side. Since I don't have access to a beadblast system, my options are limited to pressure spray systems to get in all the corners.

Any ideas how to keep the spray away from the cluster gears and the needle bearing?

Thanks

 

[flintknapper]

OK. Finally got some time to tear into my 8274. This thing is in great shape.
There is only a little rust on the motor shaft (which made the clutch inoperable) and the brake pawl was quite gummed up w/ old grease.

I wanted to clean the case, but I can not figure out how to take out the cluster gears from the top half of the housing or what to do w/ the needle bearings in the lower half of the housing.

The inside of the case is quite clean considering that it is almost 30 year old, but I'd still like to clean the out side. Since I don't have access to a beadblast system, my options are limited to pressure spray systems to get in all the corners.

Any ideas how to keep the spray away from the cluster gears and the needle bearing?

Thanks

Hi Mike,

'bout time you got that thing apart!

Yours is clean enough that you don't need to disassemble it any more IMO.

The brushes on the motor look great. Doesn't appear to me that the winch was used very much. I would just use compressed air to blow out inside of the winch motor, put some oil on the bronze bearing in the end cap and call it good for the motor.

For the winch case, absent a parts washer or bead blaster...I would take the drum off the lower case half then buy a five gallon bucket...fill it 2/3rds with diesel or Varsol (mineral spirits) and put one case "half" at a time in it. Let it soak overnight and then use a brass bristled cleaning brush to clean the outside.

Do the bottom case the same way...and the drum last. When you're done you can take it all to the car wash and pressure spray it clean.

Don't worry about getting water on the gears or needle bearings. Just soak it down with WD-40 real well and blow it off with compressed air when you get back. If you don't have compressed air, towel it off and use hair a dryer, just make sure you do this within hours of cleaning it, so you don't get any rust started on the gears or braking system.

No need to tear it down any further than you have it unless you want to reseal it.


Keep us posted.

 

[mkaustin]

Flint,

Do you have any detailed pics of the disassembled brake assembly?

I'm having a very hard time getting the brake disks off the shaft and I'd like to see what the insides look like to know what I'm working with? I've removed the snap ring and the ratchet disk spins freely between the disk plates.


If I didn't hear the ball bearings rolling around completely dry of any grease, I'd just put it back on and use it. I can see what looks like more than 1/8" brake material between the disk plates and the ratchet disk. I just don't want to get it this far apart to leave the BBs rolling around w/ out any grease.

After the brake assembly, I just need to get the clutch assembly moving freely and I'll be on the way to re-assembling this puppy.

Thanks for all you help and comments.

 

[flintknapper]

Flint,

Do you have any detailed pics of the disassembled brake assembly?

No Sir. I did not document that part of the rebuild because it has already been done by another person. Go to this link and observe items 25-29 and 49-53. Warn 8274 rebuild

I'm having a very hard time getting the brake disks off the shaft and I'd like to see what the insides look like to know what I'm working with? I've removed the snap ring and the ratchet disk spins freely between the disk plates.

There is nothing else holding it on after you remove the snap ring. Most likely the shaft and key-stock are rusted. You'll want to soak the area with penetrating oil. Use crocus cloth to clean up the shaft and probably use a puller to remove the discs. Mine came right off.

If I didn't hear the ball bearings rolling around completely dry of any grease, I'd just put it back on and use it.

Yup, you'll want to get in there and grease them lightly. Eventually, it will go dry again, but its a good idea to take of this now.

I can see what looks like more than 1/8" brake material between the disk plates and the ratchet disk.

The thickness sounds about right, but you'll want to check them to see that they have not deteriorated of become too brittle.

I just don't want to get it this far apart to leave the BBs rolling around w/ out any grease.

Roger that!

After the brake assembly, I just need to get the clutch assembly moving freely and I'll be on the way to re-assembling this puppy.

Yup. It is all very simple. You will see when you get into it.

Thanks for all you help and comments.

Happy to do it. Let us know if hit any stumbling blocks.

Flint.

 

[ohrly?]

hey cool, I just bought one of these:

24 volt, great running condition, 7 years old or something,

I paid $250


Just waiting to get some 5 inch channel so that i can mount it on my truck,

it was banged around in the back of my truck, only a little tiny bit, went over a hill and through a 100 meter dirt road and around town, and took it out of my truck and stood it up straight and it leaked oil everywhere, came from bottom of the motor housing area, but of course it couldnt have been from the motor because there is no oil in there,


what is my next step?

 

[flintknapper]

hey cool, I just bought one of these:

24 volt, great running condition, 7 years old or something,

I paid $250


Just waiting to get some 5 inch channel so that i can mount it on my truck,

it was banged around in the back of my truck, only a little tiny bit, went over a hill and through a 100 meter dirt road and around town, and took it out of my truck and stood it up straight and it leaked oil everywhere, came from bottom of the motor housing area, but of course it couldnt have been from the motor because there is no oil in there,


what is my next step?

Actually, it is “possible” for you to have witnessed a leak from around the motor housing.


"IF" some oil managed to leak between the motor shaft and the inner race of the bearing (or around the mounting screws) then it could have entered the motor itself, or leaked out the Motor Vent shown here:

A more likely source of a leak however, is from the drum seal directly below the motor where the drum enters the lower case half.

The winch only has 6 ozs of oil (from the factory)….so its pretty difficult for any of it to leak out unless the winch has been on it’s side for a while.

BTW....you bought your winch for “a song”. I never find deals like that! Good on Ya!

 

[ohrly?]

Yah I'm so happy,

As I said, it was sitting in one position for over 2 years, then it got flopped around in my truck and leaked about 25ml maximum into my truck onto my driveway and onto some cardboard once I removed it from my truck and put it into the position it was stored at.


I have my first truck, rusty bj40 that runs strong, and this is my first major upgrade, coming next? turbo, lol.


I'll top up my oil will 80 90 heavy duty and put a smile on my face and be happy.

 

[saxosim]

Hi Flint,

I just wanted to say excellent write up on the rebuild and vey detailed so thanks for doing that. I have just purchased an 8274 which I have fully disassembled and am shortly going to rebuild again once I have finished cleaning it up and painting it, please could I ask if you could kindly give me some step by step instructions and images of replacing the main shaft and all the relevant gears which fit onto it and also how to test that they all work as expected once the bronze bushing is back in the case. You mention in one of your threads to test it by hand but i am not sure what it should correctly do as I have never seen one of these in operation yet. My friend removed the main shaft for me as I did not have a drift and I am not 100% sure of the re-assembly procedure. Also should there be a circlip installed on the main shaft within the winch casing (not the one at the end of the brake assembly), I have seen a few images of other 8274's with what looks like a circlip just after the intermediate gear next to the shaft where you can use a brass drift to remove it?

Also can I ask please when fitting the bronze bush and oil seal, how far into the casing should I tap the bronze bushing, and should the lip seal be flush with the outer edge of the casing?

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated please.

Kind Regards
Simon
England

 

[flintknapper]

Hi Flint,

Could I ask if you could kindly give me some step by step instructions and images of replacing the main shaft and all the relevant gears which fit onto it and also how to test that they all work as expected once the bronze bushing is back in the case.

Hi Simon,
First... allow me to welcome you to the forum. Simon... the main shaft (brake shaft) is one area I did not document with pictures. However, if you will look at post #50 of this thread you will see links for exploded views of all of the parts. This will be helpful in visualizing the assembly. It is really quite simple once you look at it. I will try to find a link to the main-shaft and its several parts. I have seen one elsewhere, in the past.

You mention in one of your threads to test it by hand but i am not sure what it should correctly do as I have never seen one of these in operation yet

.

Simon...you are probably making reference to where I stated I "bench tested it", meaning that before I sealed the case halves with silicone, I first applied power to the rebuilt unit to insure that all was working correctly.

My friend removed the main shaft for me as I did not have a drift and I am not 100% sure of the re-assembly procedure.

Not seeing how it all came apart sounds like a disadvantage, but actually the mechanism is very simple and can really only go back together one way (with the exception of the intermediate gear). I will search for the main shaft link I mentioned above and post it when I find it. Looking at it... is easier than having someone explain it.

Also should there be a cir-clip installed on the main shaft within the winch casing (not the one at the end of the brake assembly), I have seen a few images of other 8274's with what looks like a cir-clip just after the intermediate gear next to the shaft where you can use a brass drift to remove it?

There was not a cir-clip on mine, nor am I aware of any others I have seen or heard of. The main-shaft is held in place by the "lock-plate" see post #42. The LP holds both the drum and the main-shaft in place. You will see the locked and unlocked positions in the pics. I provided.

Also can I ask please when fitting the bronze bush and oil seal, how far into the casing should I tap the bronze bushing, and should the lip seal be flush with the outer edge of the casing?

This is an excellent question and a point that needs to be discussed. The bronze bushing needs to be driven into the bore until it just protrudes inside the case. The reason for this....is that it acts as a "thrust washer" for the intermediate gear (keeping it from rubbing the side of the case).

The lip seal, as you would expect....does fit flush with the outside of the case...and may even go a bit below flush. It must not remain above the surface of the case however, or the brake backing plate will destroy it.

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated please.

Simon, we at IH8MUD are always happy to help. Please keep us informed, and if you require assistance at any point along the way, do not hesitate to ask for help.

Kind Regards

And no less for you Sir!


Flint.

 

[saxosim]

Hi Flint,

Many thanks for the fast reply and the advice you have given, if you can find the link to the article you have seen regarding the main shaft that would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Thanks regarding the bushing I shall follow your advice.

Also many thanks for welcoming me to the forum too it is appreciated.

Kind Regards
Simon
England

 

[JoeCanadian]

I damn forgot to put my bushing it, (This is Ohrly?)

Anyways, my reverse function on my controller doesn't work. Will power wind it, but will not power wind-out. I have three wires coming out of my controller, and 3 wires going into the winch.


-support the antidisestablishment of manterianism.

 

[flintknapper]

Hi Flint,

Many thanks for the fast reply and the advice you have given, if you can find the link to the article you have seen regarding the main shaft that would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Thanks regarding the bushing I shall follow your advice.

Also many thanks for welcoming me to the forum too it is appreciated.

Kind Regards
Simon
England

Hello Simon,

I did find the link I alluded to yesterday, here it is:
Warn 8274 winch brake rebuild

It is not an instruction manual, nor all inclusive, but it does show the brake shaft broken down.

Hope this helps. Please post back if you have questions.

Flint.

 

[saxosim]

Hi Flint,

Thanks for the link that is great. Do you know what it is best to clean up the main shaft to get the surface rust off with and also what am I best using to clean up the outer brake discs so they look nice and silver again. I don't really have access to a shot blaster and also i did not want to sand the light rust off the main shaft just incase it damages anything. the rust is only on the exposed end which sits out of the winch where the brake sits on and the circlip is fixed. When i say surface rust it is only the same as the level the guy in the article you kindly linked has on his - very light.

Thanks
Simon

 

[flintknapper]

Hi Flint,

Thanks for the link that is great. Do you know what it is best to clean up the main shaft to get the surface rust off with and also what am I best using to clean up the outer brake discs so they look nice and silver again.

I used 150 grit 2" wide "crocus cloth" to remove the rust and polish the main shaft.

As for the other parts, I media blasted them...and there is no better way to do this. I suppose one could use a wire brush on a drill and eventually remove the rust, but it would be labor intensive and difficult to reach some areas of the parts.

I don't really have access to a shot blaster and also i did not want to sand the light rust off the main shaft just incase it damages anything.

You won't damage the shaft by lightly sanding off surface rust, it is a hard material and doesn't cut easily, so reducing the diameter significantly is unlikely.

the rust is only on the exposed end which sits out of the winch where the brake sits on and the circlip is fixed. When i say surface rust it is only the same as the level the guy in the article you kindly linked has on his - very light.

Light surface rust should come off pretty easily....but will form again quickly if you don't paint (or prime it) soon afterward.

If you could find someone with even a small cabinet blaster...they should able to make short work of the few parts you have that need cleaning. If these services are unavailable to you....then a brass brush on a drill will suffice if you have the time and dedication.

Keep us updated!

Flint.

 

[mkaustin]

Flint,
Thanks for the link to the brake rebuild. I've been fighting the brake assembly on my winch for over two weeks. I've had a 5-ton three jaw puller on it for over a week and can not get anything to budge. I've tried heating the outer brake hub while it's under pressure and still can not get anything to budge. I doubt that I heated it up enough. I'm concerned of warping the hub.
I'm considering at punch point and a BFH on the drift keys. That's the only thing that I can think of to get something moving in the assembly to get this thing to come apart.
Any ideas from any others??? I'd like to be able to put this thing on the truck, but can get it apart to finish the rebuild.
Thanks for any advise.