My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....

flintknapper

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If you removed your main gear for any reason, it is important to note the correct orientation when reinstalling.

You may be tempted to place it back in the case so that it fits on the drum like in the photo below. This is INCORRECT. Note the difference in the height of bosses on the gear.



Below is the CORRECT position of the main gear. If you did not remove the gear upon disassembly/inspection then disregard and go on to the next step.

 

flintknapper

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Place the housing on it’s side, orient the main gear so that it is roughly centered with the bushing bore.



As the drum is inserted… rotate it slightly until you can feel the splines of the drum mesh with the gear. Continue to push downward until the drum is fully seated in the case.

Now turn the assembly back upright and you should be able to see the lock-plate groove on the drum.

 

flintknapper

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If you did not remove the intermediate gear and main-shaft, then simply push the lock-plate down into position, reinstall the drum support (after greasing the bushing) and you’re done with the lower end.










If you DID remove your intermediate gear and main-shaft I can post pics of how to reinstall it along with the bronze bushing and seal.

I have pics of the the upper housing, motor and clutch reassembly ready, but I’m too tired to post it all tonight. So be patient…and I’ll get them done soon.
 

flintknapper

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O.K.,

Threw the top on her today and then bench tested.

I highly recommend you “bench test” your work before sealing up the case halves and reassembling the brake mechanism.

Here I just loosely fitted the solenoid pack and put the top on (without silicone) to test.



Everything went well….so I buttoned it up with sealant and installed the solenoid pack for good.



All I lack now is the brake mechanism (saved the fun part for last).
 

flintknapper

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Just for fun, here is what the solenoid pack should look like (on older models).

From the front:



From the top:



From right:



From left:

 

flintknapper

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Here’s a little trick to make accessing the solenoid pack easier.

“Slot” the three screw holes (2 on top, one on bottom) so you don’t have to fiddle with removing the screws.

Poor connections are the most common source of problems with this winch, clean them from time to time.


 

flintknapper

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I probably won’t document the reassembly of the brake system… as it has been adequately covered by another gentlemen.

Warn 8274 rebuild

If anyone wants detailed pics. of the upper end, bushings, seals, gear relationships, etc… let me know.. and I will post here.

I have pics of nearly all of it. I have posted only what I thought would be the most beneficial to other folks.

I will post the finished product in a few days.

Hope this helps.
 

D'Animal

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Did you beadblast or sand blast your housings and your ground straps on the solenoids? They look extremely clean.
 

flintknapper

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Did you beadblast or sand blast your housings and your ground straps on the solenoids? They look extremely clean.


Yup.

Far and away the easiest way to clean up electrical connections is to bead blast.

Every part (gears, case, screws, etc..) on the winch was cleaned in my parts cleaner and then bead blasted. The case parts were then treated to two coats of "Plasti-Kote #282" cast aluminum enamel. It's a high temp (500 deg.) rebuilders paint, very resistant to oil, etc...

I topped it with a single pass of matte clear coat. The finish (to me) looks better than the factory "raw" finish.

The clutch knob was sprayed with "Plasti-Dip", the motor was done in gloss black epoxy, the solenoid cover in semi-gloss plastic paint.

All of this for aesthetics of course. It serves NO purpose in terms of function.

I put 12 ozs. (not 6 as recommended by Warn) of synthetic gear lube in the case (75% GL and 25% MMO). That brought the level up to just about the bottom of the drum seal, maybe a little past. It hasn't leaked so far.

When I'm done, I'll take one final pic. in some "proper" light. Fluorescent is hard to work under.
 

Blue77FJ40

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WOW. Incredible job, both on the rebuild and the detailed article. Thanks!

Any thoughts on drilling the mainshaft end to accept a bolt? There have been tales of the brake assembly flying off along with the ball bearings when the split ring lets go. Gigglepin sells a kit for this, already machined.
 

flintknapper

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Done!

All that is needed now…is to mount it on the vehicle and spool on the new cable.





Total parts: (New cable, Lower housing kit, Motor shaft bearing, Main shaft seal, paint) just under $75.00

I doubt I will be around to get another 24 years of service out of this winch, but someone will.

I paid about $460.00 for this winch….(bought new in 1983), I’ll bet it would fetch more than $600.00 today. Not a bad investment.
 

flintknapper

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WOW. Incredible job, both on the rebuild and the detailed article. Thanks!

Any thoughts on drilling the main-shaft end to accept a bolt? There have been tales of the brake assembly flying off along with the ball bearings when the split ring lets go. Gigglepin sells a kit for this, already machined.


I looked into that mod. and agree its a good safety measure for those who use this winch to extreme ends (in terms of braking and shock loading the cam gears).

I haven't babied mine any...and it has never come off in 24 yrs.

If ever a cir-clip has come off, it was because it was improperly installed at the factory or by someone else. If you look at it closely, it is slightly rounded on one side...but flat on the other. The flat side needs to face away from the brake unit. It's a pretty stout piece.

Drilling and tapping the main-shaft can be done, but be forewarned: That shaft is harder than the 5th grade was for Mike Tyson. So, have a few drill bits handy and a really good tap.

Seriously, if I were that concerned about the brake unit coming apart, I'd rig up a aux. "disc brake" on one end like the Brit's do with their competition 8274's.

I do like Gigglepin's improved friction material (larger size), so I might order those someday.

My next mod. will be the 6hp motor swap.
 
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Deny

 
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Nice Job!

I actually recently had my brake blow out the side, wrecking the needle bearing and the plate. I was thinking of rebuilding, but picked up a cheap winch that I could swap my good parts to (like my 24V motor). Anyway, any thoughts on what could cause that, like say no grease in the needle bearing? Also do you have any pics on the brake re-build? do you need speacial tools for that, or is it fairly strait forward?
Cheers,
Deny
 

flintknapper

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Nice Job!

I actually recently had my brake blow out the side, wrecking the needle bearing and the plate. I was thinking of rebuilding, but picked up a cheap winch that I could swap my good parts to (like my 24V motor). Anyway, any thoughts on what could cause that, like say no grease in the needle bearing? Also do you have any pics on the brake re-build? do you need speacial tools for that, or is it fairly strait forward?
Cheers,
Deny

If you're talking about it blowing out the "motor" side....then yes....the needle bearing would have to of seized. I put a liberal amount of grease in mine and also put twice the recommended amount of oil in the case.

All parts depend upon "splash" lubrication and that can only happen after the lube has "climbed" the main gear.

As for the brake, no special tools are required. I used a pair of long nosed vice grips to compress the spring and hold the two halves together as one unit before installing it back on the shaft. But, it can be done a number of different ways.

I did not document the rebuild...as it has already been covered by another person. But I can walk you through it (very simple) if decide to do yours.

I have pics. of the upper end that I didn't post if anyone needs to see them. My main objective here was to "add" to the information already available, so others might benefit from it.

I went a little deeper into my winch disassembly than some folks do, I also added a few mods. (fill and drain plugs, zerk fittings on drum support, slotted solenoid cover) and wanted to share those as well.
 
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WARN 8274 rebuild

I have a WARN 8274 rebuild that I have started to rebuild, however, I am having difficulty getting the brake assembly disassembled.

Is there a trick to getting the brake assembly apart?

Did you remove the brake axle from the housing (i.e., replacing the shaft seal)?

Any guidance/suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve
 

flintknapper

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I have a WARN 8274 rebuild that I have started to rebuild, however, I am having difficulty getting the brake assembly disassembled.

Is there a trick to getting the brake assembly apart?

Did you remove the brake axle from the housing (i.e., replacing the shaft seal)?

Any guidance/suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve


The brake assembly should come apart pretty easily UNLESS you have a build up of rust on the shaft or around the two key-stocks.

Remove the cir-clip, use a piece of emery cloth to smooth and clean up the main-shaft. Spray the "key stocks" as best you can with penetrating oil.

DO NOT use anything to “pry” the brake assembly off (using the case as a support).

If necessary… a small 2 jaw puller behind the rear brake disc should make easy work of it. The brake system is spring loaded...so it’s already trying to come apart.

Warning: As the "outer" brake disc moves off the shaft you will have 21 (count 'em) steel balls fall out. Do not lose any of these.

As the brake assembly comes apart, note the relationship of the parts to one another (very simple and self explanatory).

I did remove the Brake/Main-shaft on my winch in order to get to the main-gear in the bottom of the case. But, as long the needle bearing is in good shape and your current main-shaft seal is not leaking (not likely it would be) then there is no reason to disassemble/remove the main-shaft. The brake system comes off independently, just so you’ll know.

This is the needle bearing that the end of the main-shaft fits into (motor side of case)




And…this is the bronze bushing and seal (brake side of case).



You can see it all reassembled (just as it would be when you take your brake off) if you go back to post #24 where I “bench tested”.

Let me know if you have other questions or need additional pics.


Flint
 
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WARN 8274 rebuild

Thanks for your comments.

I have not been able to remove the brake system from the shaft (apparently it is really stuck).

I was considering removing the brake system/shaft as an assembly and them removing the brake system from the shaft away from the Aluminum housing.

Does this seem possible?

When I attempted to remove the brake system/shaft as an assembly, it seemed to be butting up some resistance - my guess it is the shaft seal that is pressed into the housing.

The internal gear does not appear to be mechanically attached to the shaft (only attached thru the splines).

Perhaps I have being to careful and just need to apply a bit more force.

Appreciate your comments.

Steve
 
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