My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (2 Viewers)

[spressomon]

If the grade 8 shears, I will have bigger problems than the box coming off the trailer!

I have landed on the grade 8, it is cheaper, and stronger. The books say a standard stainless bolt is around a SAE Grade 2!

Grade 8 gives me peace of mind, I just need to find a few that are corrosion resistant.

Thanks!

See #213 above...

 

[REZARF]

Thanks Bro! I checked it out but it said they were unrated, I didn't check the tensile strength of the grade 8's by comparison. Thanks again man!

Drew

 

[REZARF]

Got to work on the trailer for a few hours today, I was excited to get a few things nailed down design wise. I think I have decided to make provisions for a lifting lid, even though I might not make it functional right now.

Today I worked on the main cargo "cage" and some of the side supports. Time was spent thinking through some of the hard mounted items that need to be fitted and accounted for. The propane tanks being the biggest. I also wanted to figure out a way to install the sliding track that I have for cargo tie down points that I got from a RS Club member, thanks Brian!

A few other things got done as well... onto the pics!

First off, I got the cage straight and measured and bolted down. I have a set of the ultra corrosion resistant bolts on the way, thanks again supressomon! Those will get swapped on once they arrive.

Then I drilled a 1.5" hole to pass wiring and plumbing inside the frame rails and out of harms way.

 

[REZARF]

Next was a mock up of the latches I am going to use. They are from the RV market and are a real quality piece, I just wanted to see what kind of strikers I am going to need.

 

[REZARF]

In this next pic you can see the tie down system I am using. It is made by Hi-Lift and is ubber nice. They have an extruded aluminum track that allows tie downs to be slid along its length then they spring into place at a given interval. I am super stoked about this track system.

I am going to sandwich this tie down rail between to structural rails for a few reasons. First, I think it will be strongest like that, and second, I think it will look sweet with the black rail running down the length of the trailer. You can see in the pic that I will have enough left over to do the same thing for the short box up front!

The second pic you can see the top rail and the track, I will add a lower rail tomorrow if I have some time. The last pic is where I ended up tonight, man the garage gets SO messy after a day of working in it!

Hopefully I will get the lid started if not finished framing out tomorrow. I still need to order the piano hinges for the side door, tailgate, lid, and the front box. Then I can get the box wrapped up.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Drew....you may want to pick up some wire grommets before fishing those wires through your trailer holes. You might be able to find some nice grommets at an electrical supply store. The rubber covers the burred holes you just cut into the tailight areas. The rubber will protect the wires from chaffing.....shorts...etc.

HTH

 

[REZARF]

Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well.

What's a loom?

 

[REZARF]

What's a loom?

The plastic corrogated tubing with a split down the side that wires go into to avoid chaffing and looking like a mess.

 

[Degnol]

I think it is used for weaving.

 

[REZARF]

So today I wanted to get the tie down system done, and I did.

I had to measure and cut the bottom tubes to fit, and then stuff the tie down rail between the two tubes. However, if I made it fit too tight, then I would have to mess up the paint when installing it for the final time. So I took some scrap 16ga. sheets and spaced the pieces to give me enough paint clearance when it comes time to bolt it up.

 

[REZARF]

I can't say enough of how nice this slide-n-lock system is. Here are a few detail shots...

 

[REZARF]

I started to play around with the lid layout today. I am going to use a 2x1" 16ga tubing around the lid edges so I can overhang it by 1". This will give me some rain protection, and a place to mount my Yakima rack system. I plan on running a "gutter" piece (angle steel) along the entire length of each side.

Here is a rough layout...

 

[REZARF]

I think it is used for weaving.

Yup, that is what I am running all my wires in! LOL

 

[vtcruiser60]

Ahhh loom...that makes sense. Thought's that what you meant. Thanks.

 

[davegonz]

I started to play around with the lid layout today. I am going to use a 2x1" 16ga tubing around the lid edges so I can overhang it by 1". This will give me some rain protection, and a place to mount my Yakima rack system. I plan on running a "gutter" piece (angle steel) along the entire length of each side.

Here is a rough layout...

Don't forget to take into account the final angle of the Yakima towers. They angle in more than what you have shown. I don't know if that will affect the final position of that angle iron you're welding on or not.

 

[REZARF]

Yeah, that was just a loose mock up. The towers act like that if you don't have a cross bar going through them.

 

[Xanatost]

Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well.

I used spray foam too.

 

[sseaman]

looking good, cant wait to see it down, thats a nice track system

 

[spressomon]

Man...it's look'n great Drew! FYI: The latch style catches/latches I have on my AT allow adjustment for different bulb compression, wear, etc. Whatever latch you end up utilizing just make sure it allows for adjustment...you'll use it!