My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (3 Viewers)

[89s rule]

I used spray foam too.

Spray foam is bad news, it attracts moisture and causes rust issues quick. Avoid it like the plague when metal is involved.

 

[REZARF]

Man...it's look'n great Drew! FYI: The latch style catches/latches I have on my AT allow adjustment for different bulb compression, wear, etc. Whatever latch you end up utilizing just make sure it allows for adjustment...you'll use it!

Thanks for the tip. I plan on making the latch striker adjustable to be able to make it adjustable, and to get a good tight fit. I looked into the latches that AT uses, they are really popular in Australia. I got the latchs I am using for about 2 bucks per latch, so I am going to give them a shot.

 

[Xanatost]

Spray foam is bad news, it attracts moisture and causes rust issues quick. Avoid it like the plague when metal is involved.

I have never had a problem with that. The only way I see how that could be a issue is if you let the water stand in the frame. I know a lot of off roader's use it to keep there wires and fuel lines from rubbing.

 

[REZARF]

I have a question for those who care.

I am debating on using a different set of latches for the rear now. I think that spressmon makes a great point. I was trying to figure out over and over how to make my strikers adjustable, but it is going to be quite a complicated build.

I was out playing with the different setups and realized the hold downs i was going to use for the lid of the trailer could perform double duty and hold the tailgate in place as well. However, I loose the key lock and nice finished look of the paddle latches.

What do you think?

I will post up a pic. Thanks for your help with this.

Drew

 

[REZARF]

Pic one, paddle latch.

Pic two: De Sta Co latch, I love the one on my tire carrier, it has over 300 lbs of clamping force for each one. The downside to this method is two fold, I have to think of another locking mechanism, and a way that the tailgate won't collapse everytime I want to open the lid.

Thanks for the replies in advance.

 

[Degnol]

Drew, does that top piece of 1" square tube stay there? If it does, the frame should be rigid enough that I don't think you should have a big problem with them loosening/flexing and needing too much adjustment. Maybe I'm not understanding completelyI sure like the paddle latches!

Ed

 

[REZARF]

Nope, you got it right. The top 1" tube will stay there to brace up the rear, it will be gussetted in three directions to add strength to the rear. The strikers will be a bit of a bear to fab and make adustable but I like the look too.

 

[Degnol]

Nope, you got it right. The top 1" tube will stay there to brace up the rear, it will be gussetted in three directions to add strength to the rear. The strikers will be a bit of a bear to fab and make adustable but I like the look too.

You can do it Everything you've done so far is first-class..........get busy!

Can you post up pics of the back side of that same pic, showing your striker dilemma?

Ed

 

[gavman]

IMO the one in the second pic is too big and not refined enough for your trailer!
The concealed one is better
Keep up the good work

 

[Degnol]

Drew, I don't know how deep the paddle latch is, but could you recess it into the tailgate so that you just use the top bar as the striker?
We need a pic of the profile of the latch mechanism

Ed

 

[REZARF]

I'll try to get a pick.

 

[REZARF]

I just dropped off a big order at McMaster yesterday. I got the lid framed out, so I should be moving again soon. Anyone have any good ideas for a homemade propane mount?

Thanks!

 

[lx450landcruiser]

why does the tail gate latch have to be adjustable? you could always go the route i did and if you wated it adjustable recess the flap a bit more and add some of that hard plastic (the cutting board stuff) with a few counter sunk allens, they you could always change it out due to wear if thats an issue. Im curious to see what you do for the lid latches as im there as well. Im looking at the double latch system that they use in truck tool boxes, basically a latch on both sides but they open using the one handle in the middle

 

[Degnol]

Anyone have any good ideas for a homemade propane mount?

Thanks!

Drew, not homade, but for the price............................

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/ItemPag...338&GUID=5efd8424-89d2-4c44-a3c6-c489ac78657a

 

[Steveup]

Drew,

Assuming you have all the tools and welder before you started how much do you expect this project to cost when you are done?

 

[REZARF]

Drew,

Assuming you have all the tools and welder before you started how much do you expect this project to cost when you are done?

Too much

Seriously though, I will tally everything when it is done.

 

[REZARF]

why does the tail gate latch have to be adjustable? you could always go the route i did and if you wated it adjustable recess the flap a bit more and add some of that hard plastic (the cutting board stuff) with a few counter sunk allens, they you could always change it out due to wear if thats an issue.

To get a rattle free system, and insure that as your weather stripping starts to deteriorate, you really want to be able to adjust the latches. Your idea would work fine. I am going to do something similar, using nylon block over steel.

Im curious to see what you do for the lid latches as im there as well. Im looking at the double latch system that they use in truck tool boxes, basically a latch on both sides but they open using the one handle in the middle

I decided to use a work load rated adjustable draw latch from McMaster on the inside of the lid, I finally figured out my space for the drawers on the interior and the latches I picked should mount right up without any clearance issues. This means I will need to open the tailgate to open the lid, but that is acceptable for me.

I will post up pics when the big box arrives!

 

[REZARF]

Here is what the catch of the latches looks like... You can see the flange and that would rest up against the top tube of the tailgate, if you flip back a few images you can see how it would be installed.

Let me know what you think! THANKS!

 

[REZARF]

Here are some of the cool things that came from McMaster the other day. First is the "Ultra High Corrosion Resistant" Socket head bolts. I got them in both 3/8" and 1/4" sizes to bolt all kinds of things to the trailer.

Next up is a bad pic, but I got 4 piano hinges, all are 2" wide, two have .125" pins and are .060 thick, and the other ones are 3/32" pins with a .090 thickness.

I got two rubber straps to use as dampening on my propane tank mounts.

Last one is the littel bitty latches I got for the little "doors" on the ends of the frame rails.

 

[REZARF]

I got three kinds of latches. All are adjustable, two are really tiny, the middle two are rated at 200lbs clamping force each, and will hold down the main lid. I will mount these on the inside of the main box and I will be able to access them only when the tailgate is down, but I don't need to lock them then, and it makes the exterior look a little cleaner too.

The big ones are really beefy and they will hold down the lid to the front box. I had to get a beefy one to get a pad lock eye. They are really nice and well made.

I can get part numbers if anyone needs them.