My Power Steering Leak (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

Ken, if your pump is leaking your high and low pressure hoses are not far behind. With your intent to run the Rubicon I would suggest you replace those as well.

Thanks Christo, good advice.


Andy - I would say the ugly one but . . . . . . . .

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Andy - I would say the ugly one but . . . . . . . .

So much for clarity.....

 

[badmuthatrucka]

I am starting to have the same problem. How much does it cost to replace all the hoses and the rebuild kit for the pump?

I think it's funny watching you guys go back and forth! Good friends having a good time.

 

[Romer]

with discount, the rebuild kit with O ring is less than $50. The entire pump new is ~$250 (with discount)

Not sure on the hoses.

 

[OGBeno]

with discount, the rebuild kit with O ring is less than $50. The entire pump new is ~$250 (with discount)

Not sure on the hoses.

There is one main high pressure hose and then the low pressure lines. The low pressure lines can easily be sourced at a NAPA (this would be a good time to upgrade to some Gates PS hose--red or blue stuff). This would also be a really good time to get rid of so-called PS cooler (the metal lines in front of the front cross member). The high pressure hose is pretty expensive, IIRC. Dan can chime in on the price. I replaced it and the PS pump and am going for a deeper PS reservoir as well. All in the name of cooling.

I'm the ugly one by the way....

 

[Romer]

Well after a week with the Lucas, the rear of the power steering pump is wet again. I only used 12 oz rather than a complete replacement of fluid, but I was planning on replacing this before Moab and Rubithon no matter what.

Dan - Hope your dogs like Steak, I'll be calling you.

Pump, O ring gasket

Seems to be quite a bit of agreement on replacing the high pressure line as well. I'm going for a new pump and then I'll rebuild the old one at my leisure so I have a spare for Sarah's truck (Andy's advice and never argue with a Dr whose services you may one day need in an emergency).

 

[OGBeno]

Personally, I'd replace the high pressure line if it was me....

But I'm a "while you're in there kind of guy though...."



EDIT: Ken, you might want to first go in and just replace the o-ring before you clunk down the change for a new pump. Just an idea.

 

[Romer]

Personally, I'd replace the high pressure line if it was me....

But I'm a "while you're in there kind of guy though...."



EDIT: Ken, you might want to first go in and just replace the o-ring before you clunk down the change for a new pump. Just an idea.

I thought the O ring everyone replaces is on the other side of the pump. It's definitly leaking from the back side where you can see it is wet. I cleaned it up last week and 7 days later its very wet

Note: before cleanup pic

 

[Romer]

Beno - after studing the manual some. It looks like what your saying is remove the rear snap ring and replace the rear oring and put the snap ring back on.

Am I understanding you correctly? If so, possible to drain the system and do this still installed?

 

[Tools R Us]

Beno - after studing the manual some. It looks like what your saying is remove the rear snap ring and replace the rear oring and put the snap ring back on.

Am I understanding you correctly? If so, possible to drain the system and do this still installed?

I wouldn't do it installed on the truck. It needs to be done in a clean area and if the o-ring is bad, the shaft seal isn't far behind. Resealing them is an easy job, if the pump is good, resealing is the way that I would repair it. They are very reliable, the main failure is from seals leaking and that is usually after 10+ years of use, so I don't see the need to store a spare?

 

[Romer]

I wouldn't do it installed on the truck. It needs to be done in a clean area and if the o-ring is bad, the shaft seal isn't far behind. Resealing them is an easy job, if the pump is good, resealing is the way that I would repair it. They are very reliable, the main failure is from seals leaking and that is usually after 10+ years of use, so I don't see the need to store a spare?

I see between your picture and the FSM. The rebuild stuff comes out that side after you pull the snap ring and the gear from the other side.

The reason the spare idea is that I can rebuild the one from mine and use it on Sarah's 80 which has the signs of a leak but no drips yet. Mine is much worse. Suppose I could rebuild both and I will have to think about it. The advantage here is that I just swap it rather than taking the time to rebuild.

 

[medtro]

The reason the spare idea is that I can rebuild the one from mine and use it on Sarah's 80 which has the signs of a leak but no drips yet. Mine is much worse. Suppose I could rebuild both and I will have to think about it. The advantage here is that I just swap it rather than taking the time to rebuild.

It isn't that difficult to rebuild the pump. If you are going to rebuild one, then you may as well rebuild both of them. Just be careful with the vane plates when you put them back together. You will need a 12 points socket, I think it is 17mm, but not 100% sure.

 

[powderpig]

I think the bearing need to be replaced when one does this job. I believe that the last time I did this I got the Japanese bearing from Carquest. I do not remember the bearing number. Kevin did you right the bearing number down? I will try and look in some old posts, I am sure I posted numbers up a few years ago. Any how It really is not that hard of a rebuild as long as you keep the vanes in the right way, all will work OK.

 

[Russ in California]

If the ps pressure hose is moved and you observe any crunching noises, chunks may be dislodged. Might consider replacing the hose before you send some nice sediment to the pump.
Anyone use a aux. ps filter?
Beno, what's your thinking behind removing the ps cooler tube?
thanks,

 

[Tools R Us]

I think the bearing need to be replaced when one does this job. I believe that the last time I did this I got the Japanese bearing from Carquest. I do not remember the bearing number. Kevin did you right the bearing number down? I will try and look in some old posts, I am sure I posted numbers up a few years ago. Any how It really is not that hard of a rebuild as long as you keep the vanes in the right way, all will work OK.

I have almost never replaced the bearing, they run in the fluid, it's a great lubricant, so they last just about forever. I may have the number at home, but your right, they are a common bearing that are easily available.

 

[Romer]

Just ordered new pump, oring, gasket, High pressure hose and a return hose.

Need to go buy the gear removal tool. I think somewhere I read I needed a 12 sided Socket in one of the write-ups?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Just ordered new pump, oring, gasket, High pressure hose and a return hose.

Need to go buy the gear removal tool. I think somewhere I read I needed a 12 sided Socket in one of the write-ups?

Romer-It's just a normal 12 point socket. I forget the size, but if you have a set of sockets, you'll probably have one that fits. I think it was 17 but I'm not certain.

Or I could say, I'll sell you my SST for $50.

 

[Romer]

MMMMM Purdy

 

[concretejungle]

and smart shopper price on all that purdy stuff is??

 

[Romer]

About $444 all together with the new Pump, High Pressure Hose (Lots of $$$$), Return Hose, O ring a gasket.

Plus I got a FREE Calender wooo hhooo


Would have been cheaper to buy the rebuild kit and get one of the hoses from NAPA, but I just decided to get a new one so I wouldn't have to worry about it for another 11 years.