My new HU and speakers. (1 Viewer)

[danadog]

I am in the process of replacing my stereo in my '96 FZJ80 right now. There seems to be quite the debate on what fits and what doesn't. Here is my list of what I Installed and what I am currently installing. Keep in mind that I wanted to retain all of the stock speaker grills and I desoldered all the speaker connection harnesses on the old speakers and soldered them to the new units. My choice of front speakers required using the included screws to install, the rear door speakers required cutting the back of the factory speaker mount off with a hot knife.

Head unit: Kenwood DDX319 double DIN with Sirius XM tuner and iPhone interface.
Head unit harnes: Scocshe TA02B
Front door speakers: 6.5" Sony XS-GT1627A
Rear door speakers: 4" Kenwood KFC-1094PS
Front dash speakers: 3.5" Clarion SRG922C
Rear ceiling speakers: 3.5" Clarion SRG922C
Rear Sub: Kenwood 8" eXcelon KFC-XW800F in a whole hog tech mount
Amp: Kenwood KAC-8105D

So far I am currently fitting both sets of the 3.5's by trimming the factory mounts, then to tackle the sub woofer. So far it sounds great though. A far cry from the stock speakers though. The stock front door speakers had no foam left when I removed them.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

No separate amp for the two extra channels of speakers?

I'm not a guy who rolls down the road thumping but I plan to let my head unit (Kenwood DNX-7100) power the dash and rear ceiling speakers, and use some tripath class-D boards for the door speakers. TK2050 x2 in BTL configuration with a 24v supply for the polk 6.5's I'm putting in the front doors, TA2021 with straight 12v supply for the pioneer 5.25" the PO put in the back doors.

Disclaimer for the following: I am not a car audio guy. I am a headphone fanatic who enjoys a good enclosed speaker at home and in the office too. I've built several amps (mostly headphone amps, some of them very complex) and I've re-tuned a dozen or more pair of home audio speakers, so i ain't a'feared of the intricacies of mobile audio. I understand that car speakers have stiffer spiders and surrounds so as to be self-damping. I just largely don't "get" what passes for acoustic treatment in vehicles, aside from mechanical damping of body panels which makes perfect sense. The compliments I get on my GTI's audio system have included "You mean you DON'T have a sub?", and "You only changed the rear speakers?!". I understand that a cavernous beast like the 80 series is a totally different nut to crack.

I find the dash speaker situation to be messy and question whether i want to mess with it at all. The PO put some pioneer 3.5" or something in there (I haven't bothered to remember the model number) and i think they, well, suck.

But with the dash speakers at different heights and angles, you need dispersed and even treble dispersion, and the pioneers the PO put in there have really, really beamy treble dispersion. I'm not sure whether i am going to keep them.

He mounted them with 1 screw in a stripped out post and they just sort of dangle there, hanging about 3/16" above the ring on the back side of the grill. So there is no coupling to the baffle at all, but why bother because the baffle ends a few inches away right?

I wonder if it would be worth my time to come up with a better way of coupling the dash speakers to their baffles, and maybe use some of those foam rubber hats for speakers that might get exposed to water on their back sides, maybe loaded with a little fiberglass and partially sealed with aluminum tape, in an effort to salvage whatever i can under 200hz. The next step would be to use some stiff, impermeable material (1/4" plywood?) to extend the underside of the dash further toward the firewall but it's clearly not worth the trouble.

For the rear ceiling speakers I am eyeing some Aurasound 3" fullrangers that Madisound sells. The ones with the aluminum cones. And if i go that way, I will stuff the area around them with foam rubber.

 

[beachyetti]

gday,
I have used my dash speakers for my uhf, GME TX 3800. For everything else i went aftermarket. HU, SUB, splits in the front, and coax fill 6.5s in the rear....not the doors but cargo area...., amp....and did the big three upgradfe for the ground and alternator. made a huge difference. anyway, to use the stock dash seakers....
i bought the din pak for the dash install, $20 in australia. the gmes have a 3.5 mm jack plug in the back for an external speaker. simply purchase a 3.5mm splitter....single male to doubles femalr.
cut off the female jacks. join/solder wires done!
Simple as, makes good use of the not so good stock speakers, and the clarity when communicating is 10 x better than the inbuilt uhf speaker.
food for thought.
cheers

 

[raynyc]

Do you have any install photos?

 

[danadog]

Do you have any install photos?

No, but the install was pretty easy. The front door speakers went in with no mods. The rear door speakers required taking the factory speakers out of the plastic factory spacers and I used a knife attachment on a soldering iron to cut the centre out of the factory mount. The aftermarket speakers fit right in and then I epoxied tabs on the mount to secure the speakers. They were the hardest but using the factory spacer allowed me to retain the factory grille. For the dash I just took the factory tweeters out of the factory metal mounts, and cut the mounts to fit the new speakers. I really wish I took some pics now, if I pull the door panels off anytime soon I will get some and post them up.

 

[IrishLX450]

I'm in the process of replacing the speakers in my LX. I'm assuming I can use the same size speakers for that. Sometimes the more posts I read the more confused I get, feel I need a translator for some of previous posts !! So basically I need 6 1/2" speaders for front door, how deep can they be ? I'll prob just go on crutchfield to order or can someone recomend a better source ?, amazon or ebay ?, any particular brand sound better than another ?, thanks for feedback and for sharing your experience

 

[Omicron]

No, but the install was pretty easy. The front door speakers went in with no mods. The rear door speakers required taking the factory speakers out of the plastic factory spacers and I used a knife attachment on a soldering iron to cut the centre out of the factory mount. The aftermarket speakers fit right in and then I epoxied tabs on the mount to secure the speakers. They were the hardest but using the factory spacer allowed me to retain the factory grille. For the dash I just took the factory tweeters out of the factory metal mounts, and cut the mounts to fit the new speakers. I really wish I took some pics now, if I pull the door panels off anytime soon I will get some and post them up.

I had a question about your speaker install, any words of wisdom for the rear roof/ceiling speakers, were your clarions 3.5" a direct fit?

 

[TicoCafe]

Can you provide more insight on the install experience of the Rear Ceiling 3.5" Speakers... did you have to drop the headliner or it was easier than that...?
Did you use a Bass Blocker?

Thanks!

 

[seifist]

Can you provide more insight on the install experience of the Rear Ceiling 3.5" Speakers... did you have to drop the headliner or it was easier than that...?
Did you use a Bass Blocker?

Thanks!

I don't believe a bass blocker is necessary for roof speakers. IIRC, the roof speakers already had a low pass filter.

 

[Luke111]

I did a pretty extensive stereo install in my 80... and replaced my dash and rear ceiling speakers with 3.5 ..see post 113 and 131
but have since disconnected the front dash speakers..I have some pretty serious front door pods with 6.5 CDT Audio components in front door and the same 6.5's in the rear doors , front stage tweeters in the A-pillars, an adjustable front center speaker and a 10' shallow sub in the rear..Those dash speakers muddy the sound..Now the system sounds great..So my advise is to work in stages....if you're putting in nice components you can live without the ceiling and dash speakers
I started with Infinity components and switched to the door pods and CDT Audio's deeper in my thread ..Post 150 and the A-pillars
post 214

Lou

 

[danadog]

They were not a "direct fit". I had to space the grilles off the HL buy a few mm's and pry open the factory mount brackets but a cm or two.