My new find... 1999 LX470 (6 Viewers)

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I'm new to this forum and read through your LC and LX threads - I've learned so many things and want to thank you for your kind consideration and sharing your knowledge and experience. Kudos!
 
I'm new to this forum and read through your LC and LX threads - I've learned so many things and want to thank you for your kind consideration and sharing your knowledge and experience. Kudos!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I do this to document my experience and to help others.
 
Pedal travel shouldn’t change- the old worn pads were held close to rotor by the caliper piston being extended out further and further as the pads wear. When you push caliper back in to fit new/ thicker pads, they still only travel a couple mm to contact rotor.
 
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Do you have a link for the material you used to re-wrap the speaker grills in the door cards?
 
Thanks for sharing your progress. I wish I had your skills. My 98 has been great but have considered selling it. Every time I read something like this I reconsider. Great job. Makes me want to go thru the suspension and drivetrain bits like you! Mine has 190k. Props to you, absolutely awesome!

Grand
 
Awesome thread! I’m in Katy also, cool to see other members here! I’m having a similar rear end vibration around 60-75mph. Do you think the swaybar end links or the u joints made the biggest difference?
 
Pedal travel shouldn’t change- the old worn pads were held close to rotor by the caliper being extended out further and further as the pads wear. When you push caliper back in to fit new/ thicker pads, they still only travel a couple mm to contact rotor.
Agreed. I am not sure why my double pump issue went away but it is still not there. It feels as firm as my LC with no issues and a replacement Toyota MC Assembly.
Do you have a link for the material you used to re-wrap the speaker grills in the door cards?
Sorry, I do not. I got it off of eBay but can't find it in my past orders. Look up "Speaker Grill Cloth".
Thanks for sharing your progress. I wish I had your skills. My 98 has been great but have considered selling it. Every time I read something like this I reconsider. Great job. Makes me want to go thru the suspension and drivetrain bits like you! Mine has 190k. Props to you, absolutely awesome!

Grand
Thanks. I may have a few years of experience over most in general mechanics but nowadays you can see the job done before you attempt it on YouTube. I've even looked up routine stuff I've done and learned some tricks and shortcuts.
My dad was a known engine builder here in Houston but fell out when the electronics started taking over in the 1980's. He also won't touch AC systems. I do all the electrical stuff and AC stuff with help from the internet.
Awesome thread! I’m in Katy also, cool to see other members here! I’m having a similar rear end vibration around 60-75mph. Do you think the swaybar end links or the u joints made the biggest difference?
Hey Hey! My wife daily's the LC and I alternate between the 4Runner and LX.
Here was my biggest tell - If it vibrates your butt in the seat, it is probably U-Joints. 1 out of 4 U-Joints made the biggest difference. Feel free to reach out (PM) for help. I am just south of Bucee's.
 
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Hopefully my double pump disappears.

I did gain confidence that any air was purged from the brakes lines, though. After I changed pads the brake fluid level raised well past max. I unscrewed the brake fluid reservoir cap and did feel some pressure release. We shall see…
 
Well, After no rain for about 2-1/2 months we got some, and it came down like a monsoon. I was coming home from the kiddo's gymnastics class and stopped the truck in the driveway to wait for the rain to slow down. Very soon after I stopped, water came pouring out of the left of the steering column area onto the floor mats. The mats kept most of the water from getting on the carpet. Sunroof drains probably. So that night, I ordered all the cables to redo the sunroof so it would work properly. I will just replace it and clean the drains at the same time.
Next day, my AHC light is blinking and the suspension won't move or adjust. No biggie - I will pull it in the garage, hook up Techstream and diagnose. I pull it into the garage but not far enough. I got in to restart it and pull it up and it wouldn't start. Healthy cranking and a little sputtering but wouldn't start.

I recall the EFI fuse stories so looked that up and used a jumper wire and no luck. Swapped the fuse with no luck. Cleaned the contacts and bent the spade contacts out just a little.

Sprayed Starter Fluid down its throat and it fired off instantly. No fuel and I have spark! Probably a fuel pump or filter issue. I recall one symptom a week ago - driving consistently for an hour and came to a stop sign. At the stop sign there was a slight surge then it almost died but came right back to life. I have a fuel filter here so may change that out tomorrow while taking a pressure reading to diagnose (if I have time).
 
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After trying to purchase a Denso fuel pump kit (from 4 different suppliers) and having the order cancelled due to no stock, I decided to go with a Napa brand unit.
Under the driver side back seat is the access cover. Both rear seats removed and carpet pulled forward. I had to really clean this area before pulling the pump unit out so I could reduce the possibility of dirt entering the system.

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Old unit. Fuel sock was dirty but not bad. I also replacer the fuel filter. I let the filter drain out and it was very dirty. Fired right up and ran great.
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Under the Passenger side, I found this body plug that was melted and the insulation seamed stuck to the floor. At first, I though a chemical had spilled at one time and melted it but on my fuel pump R&R test drive, I heard an exhaust leak. There is a hole in the top of the exhaust system blowing up on the floor. After the test drive the floor was very hot. I am going to have to do something about that before it causes more damage.
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Melted body access plug:
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Removed the melted plug.
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Of course, I had to clean everything and label the date on the fuel pump door.

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Had to shampoo the carpets.
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It was dirty.
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Back to diagnosing the AHC issue...

+B voltage is too low.
No pressure readings.
I have 5 DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) but could not read them.
I can here the Relay clicking.

To recap: Storm, Water poured in under dash. Next day - AHC "OFF" light flashing and stuck in "Sport" mode.

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Every time I tried to read the codes or would try to operate manually through Techstream, I would get the Error below. I need to read up on it.
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Been a while but haven't really done much. I have been just driving her around with the AHC "OFF" light flashing and stuck in Default Sport Mode. It is firmer but not as firm as my lifted 3rd gen 4Runner.
I did take it on another 990 mile round trip to go fishing in Venice, Louisiana like this with no issues.

I really want to keep the AHC as I love the ride although I do have a lift and replacement parts on the wall in my garage if needed.

I cannot read the DTCs from Techstream so I broke out the repair manual, made a "SST 09843" (wire loop) and read the flashes and got C1731, C1732, C1733, C1734, and C1736).
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I have unplugged, inspected, cleaned with contact cleaner, dielectric greased, and plugged back in all the Accumulator and Control Valve connections under the car and guess what! IT WORKED!!!!!

My AHC is back!

The best tool I have ever bought for my 100 Series.
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Happy Thanksgiving!
Walked out yesterday morning got in, fired her up, sitting in Normal, switched to high, switched back to Normal, balanced L and R front torsion bars. Pressures were a little high but not out of range.
Switch up and down then the AHC OFF light started blinking again. It stuck in Low and Sport mode. 😭

Spent the whole day diagnosing.
Made a tool to diagnose the height sensors to check them like the book says.
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Took readings from the AHC ECU. Found a bunch of bad readings. Wondering if I should try replacing the AHC ECU?
I don’t know right now. About to give up on it…
I can trace wires to look for shorts. That’s all that’s left.

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Happy Thanksgiving!
Walked out yesterday morning got in, fired her up, sitting in Normal, switched to high, switched back to Normal, balanced L and R front torsion bars. Pressures were a little high but not out of range.
Switch up and down then the AHC OFF light started blinking again. It stuck in Low and Sport mode. 😭

Spent the whole day diagnosing.
Made a tool to diagnose the height sensors to check them like the book says.
View attachment 3177033

View attachment 3177032

Took readings from the AHC ECU. Found a bunch of bad readings. Wondering if I should try replacing the AHC ECU?
I don’t know right now. About to give up on it…
I can trace wires to look for shorts. That’s all that’s left.

View attachment 3177031

I bet your AHC ecu is just fine (I can send you a known good spare to try if you like).
If you have already checked the fuses then I think the culprit might be the large junction connection behind driver side wheel. You can see it if you lie down under there. It is known to cause issues when water or mud gets in there.
I can dig up the relevant thread later or perhaps @suprarxcan chime in
 
I bet your AHC ecu is just fine (I can send you a known good spare to try if you like).
If you have already checked the fuses then I think the culprit might be the large junction connection behind driver side wheel. You can see it if you lie down under there. It is known to cause issues when water or mud gets in there.
I can dig up the relevant thread later or perhaps @suprarxcan chime in
Thanks. I started a new thread on this topic to get some others to respond.

I think the Control Module has gone out as it did not ohm out correctly. I am currently searching for a used one.
 
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Some big part has bad connections/ shorts in it- I don't see all those solenoids crapping out together as a real thing that could have happened. If you unplugged/ replugged everything, and it worked for a bit, I'm leaning toward either that junction behind drivers front wheel or the AHC ECU itself.

Let us know how it goes- I'm a save the AHC guy too, but there comes a time (like IF all the electronics crap out at once or the harnesses are damaged somewhere nd tracing them is just not worth it) where the static lift is just easier.
 
Well, as y’all can see, not much progress.
I am bummed because I could not find the issue. I traced and checked continuity on wires; unplugged, cleaned and greased every related connection; and tested every component. Kept saying ECU but I could not verify. I did not want to start throwing parts at it.

I have had a slightly used 3” Tough Dog / OME kit in the corner of the garage for a while now and after the vehicle basically sitting for 3 months I decided to rip out the AHC and install the lift.
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Day 1 (last weekend) was running board removal, draining the system, removing the front and rear AHC “shocks” and rear springs and installing all the shocks and rear springs. I didn’t have time to get the front torsion bars in so it sat there for a week with a nice rake making my HOA cringe.

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