Builds My LJ78 build thread... (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hi Jarrat,

Thanks for taking the time to share your build experience here on the forum, your commitment and knuckle bustin on your Prado is inspirational.

I have a couple questions:
Do you happen to know what the air temp is on the compressed side of the turbo?
And, do you still feel the temp switch on your inter-cooler was worth the effort (and why)?

Thanks again, Allen


Hey Allen, sorry for the REAAAAAALY late reply, No idea the before and after temps with the compressed air side. As for the EGTS, I'd say 150-200F are taken off the normal EGTS when under higher loads. Normaly cruising up the hill near my house was a struggle to keep my EGTS under 1100F and staying above 60kph and after the intercooler I can cruise up it at 70 and stay under 1100F no problem.
 
TIME FOR UPDATES!!!!!

My new used roof rack, I got this roof rack off a buddy from work and it seems to fit just a little narrow. I'm going to be 3d printing some parts for it and add some 1/4 aluminum plates to help support it better as the truck is wider then the rack by 2". I also had to make one of the plates that was missing when I got it. Got a piece of stainless and had it bent up at my old work. (just changed jobs recently).

1911693
1911694
 
Last edited:
Now lets talk about my 3d printed hubs/electric hub conversion. This is just a test for now (unless it holds up and works out fine), I work in a shop where I can make these out of aluminum if needed.

(I LOVE how you can just upload pictures now BTW)


First thing I did was measure up the factory hubs, and come up with an idea on how I wanted this to work in my head then 3d print my idea on my 3d printer and see if it would work.

1911701


1911699


Now it was time to machine one of my spare hubs and get the plastic parts to fit. Here are some pics of me taking them apart.


1911702


First thing I noticed was the four T-20 screws I had to remove. Out of the two hubs I could only get 4 screws to come out, even with heat and brute force. I ended up drilling out the rest. (reassembled them with only 2 screw in each one in the end)

1911704


Also I had to take out this pain in the ass clip.


1911705
 
Last edited:
Then I needed to press out (lightly tap) this part.

1911713


1911714



and then clean everything up... (I think I'm missing a washer in this pic)

1911715


Now I had to machine out the middle section. Luckily I have a small lathe in my garage to do this. If you plan on doing this project yourself, I'd suggest downloading the files I'm going to upload, get them printed somewhere at 100% infill and measure the plastic parts and machine your hubs to fit them. Every 3d printer prints differently even different filaments print at different tolerances. If your interested in getting aluminum ones made (might even make the part I'm machining in the pic below) shoot me a message, I might make some up at my work out of aluminum and you can do this yourself in your driveway. I'd need to talk to my work and setup some arrangements if I get enough interest.

1911716


1911717
 
Last edited:
After machining..

1911718


1911722



I had to drill and tap these parts, even though this isn't absolutely needed with this design because when everything is assembled having it all together makes it hold together on the hub. The screw is there just to hold it all together while you assemble it and install it.

Now I just chased the hole with a 0.201 (tap drill for the 1/4-20 tap) and tapped the hole by hand.

1911719


1911720


and then I pressed in this piece, carefully not to crack the plastic, and it fit perfectly. I miss my old vice, my son thought it would be a great idea to use a 4 foot bar on my old vice to squish brass bullets and ended up breaking it, oh well, this one works until I get a new one...

1911721
 
Last edited:
I know the 3d printing was set on the lowest resolution possible and I printed it as fast as possible so don't think this is how your hubs are going to turn out looking like if you try this project out.

Now for more assembly.

Now, this is NOT the screws I ended up going with, because it will not go onto the hubs like this. You will need 3/4 by 1/4-20 counter sunk screws with the plastic counter sunk for it to work properly. I did NOT take any pics of this process unfortunately.
1911727


1911728


1911729


1911730


I also added an O-ring which I really never took any pictures. I went down to my local auto parts store and found one that fits tight so water can not leak inside during water crossings. This is the part number.


1911731
 
Last edited:
Now I've got them assembled. O-ring wasn't installed in this pic, but you can kind of see the grove it needs to sit in on the top part.

1911733


added lots of LOW temp grease after this pic.... (yes the plastic is resistant to the grease, I used PLA for 3d printing)

1911734


I had to take out the small gears in the hubs to get these to fit.

1911735


installed without any issues!!!

1911736


Stamped in the U for unlock and L for locked, cycled them a couple times, and then checked by going under the truck and seeing if the hubs locked by trying to turn the front driveshaft. Worked like a charm!

1911737



Now I just finished my winch project and I'll post up pics on how I did that and pics another day!!!!.. Also I got a MAD oil leak somewhere that I need to take care of ASAP as I don't even want to park in my driveway anymore.
 
That hub solution is downright awesome! Nice work! Glad to see you haven't forgotten your build thread too; thanks for updating!
 
Jarrat,

WAY COOL!!
I was thinking I would do something like this when the snow clears to mine, I hadn't thought it through nearly as much as you have and now I don't have to, I'll just follow your example.

Thanks for your contributions, Allen
 
Cut the front of the front clip for better air flow and to access the winch better. Cools the rad way better, did this mod before the rad upgrade. It made a significant difference in cooling. Not the best looking mod I've done, but I'm used to it now.

20190527_184153.jpg
20190527_193820.jpg



20190529_183124.jpg


20190606_165928.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice work as always! That is a really nice radiator; where did you get it?

What boost pressure are you running? Key to lower EGT's is more boost! :) Once you get that little bleed valve I'm sending you, crank it up to 17-20 psi or so. The CT20 take's it like a champ. I have found no disadvantage yet to running this much boost. I've had no turbo problems, and when I swapped out my short block for a better one (original had rust damage from japan) I took a good look at piston ring lands etc., and there was no indication of any issues. Bottom ends of these motors are really strong. The pistons are super well made with reinforced ring lands and a cooling passage all the way around the inside of the piston crown. I should put some good pics up.

Love your winch setup. I'd really like to do one like that myself.
 
Got the factory spare rad from Matt, (POSTOY) for cheap and had the local chilliwack radiator shop re-core it with a super efficient 3 core. He tried to explain why that core was more efficient then going 4 core. Apparently this rebuild has a little more then twice the cooling capabilities over the stock radiator.

As for boost, I still have nooooo idea how to find the fuel pressure screw/jam nut/spill cap thing everyone talks about, mostly due to my laziness on looking into it. Maybe someone should do a good write up on that one!! *wink wink*
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom