Builds My LC 80 thread. (1 Viewer)

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Hi, great to here you from you and that you got through the ITV, when you say face lifted bumper was it an OE Toyota unit? If it looked as thought it belonged there then they do not always pick up on it. What do you mean by the 'rear wheel lifted mod'? I have a small van I run around in and as it is related to my mechanic business it has to have an ITV every 6 months. Last month the guy pointed out that the drivers seat tilt mechanism was a little worn, I pointed out that a, there are only the two front seats as it is a van so passengers are not carried and they cannot get in there anyway and b, that even if there was a tools or merchandise movement then my back is protected by a load guard. Apparently that does not matter, there is no flexibility for a worn mechanism in the regulation, I popped in the breakers and grabbed a pair of seats ready for the next ITV in 6 months time where....you can bet your life the seats will NOT even be tested!!

The gearbox was toast, I could move the input shaft up and down about 25mm! I decided that if the gearbox is like that then there is little point in stripping off the transfer as it too would probably have done a lot of work. So, I have a few searches running at the moment, the UK has plenty lying around on the floor but they are either being sold by liars and breakers with reviews that would make your hair curl ooooor, the prices are enough to give you a heart attack! Still on the look out and have come close a couple of times, other than that I sent 4 wheels via a 4x4 club/garage friend to Portugal (yeh I know) to have them refurbished and they have come back looking so good I want to lick them!

They are sitting in one of the bedrooms at the moment and they can go on once the gearbox is sorted, watch this space.

regards

Dave
 
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hola. yes i bent up the bottom of the OE one and trimmed the endcaps as per my sig link.

and "spare" .."lifted spare wheel mod" is what I meant. I raised it 70/60/50mm to lift the front more than the back and flatten the spare out under there. you can clearly see the six extension pieces if you look, but they either didnt notice or care.

sounds like our ITV station might be a tad more lax than yours?
 
Hi, something like lifting the spare they might not be interested in so good luck with that. I planned to fit the spare wheel mount as per the JDM and then fit another fuel tank, I was thinking if I got a second hand unit they might assume that it is OE, these vehicles are relatively rare in Spain and mine is now 20 years old so they may or may not know what should be there or not 8>)) Having said that the spare on the back tend to ruin the lines of the car which I like.......I will think about it. Re the ITV, the main problem is that NONE of the engineers seem to be singing from the same song sheet. A few weeks ago they were plugging a small box fitted with lights and were checking the tow bar electrics, then you do not see the box for a few weeks, nothing consistent that's for sure.

Feel free to keep in touch.

regards

Dave
 
Hi, looking for a definitive answer to the following question, with respect no 'my mate thinks this or that' factual answers only please.

Many on here know I had a transmission failure on my 94 with the 1HD-T 12 VALVE, long story short I have been searching for a gearbox/transfer combo here in Spain without much luck BUT, I have been offered a combo from the later 24 VALVE motor (1HD-FTE).

My research thus far shows the clutch is slightly bigger on the later engine, and the flywheels are different, I know that from my 24v to 12v starter modification. The splines on the input shaft are listed as 14 spline on both clutches, the transfer boxes also are identical as long as I get the version with the VC.

WILL THIS COMBO FIT YES OR NO?

Thanks in advance

regards

Dave

Note: Cross posted in Diesel Tech
 
not in my books .. all 1HD-T and FT clutches are the same 300mm clutch.
Thanks for that Tapage, I picked the info up from a Spanish/French 4x4 outlet. Perhaps the clutch plate is the same and the actual bolt spacing is different? The have different kit numbers for the pre and post 95, I have an account with these so it should not be a problem getting some more info, I'II get back to ya all.

regards

Dave

EDIT: Thinking about it I think the 12v valve motor has better torque IIRC which would make a bigger clutch pointless on the later engine hmmmmm.....:hmm:
 
@ Tapage, Hi

Hi, I went back the 4X4 suppliers and he confirms the later clutch is bigger (well the one they sell), the links below show the clutch kit (aftermarket) for the 12 valve and the 24 valve, there is a substantial price difference as well.

http://www.euro4x4parts.com/toyota_parts/landcruiser_series_80/hdj80_4_2td_12s_diesel_1990_1995/4_transmission/E/clutch_complete_kit_aftermarket

http://www.euro4x4parts.com/toyota_parts/landcruiser_series_80/hdj80_4_2td_24s_diesel_1995_1998/4_transmission/E/clutch_complete_kit_aftermarket

Apparently they do a performance kit as well which uses the larger 300mm clutch as well?
I would have to fit a different flywheel (300mm) to use this kit.

http://www.euro4x4parts.com/parts/ekf1039-2182_clutch_heavy_duty_kit.html

I had no intention of increasing clutch type/strength over stock but noted the difference as I am thinking about fitting the later 24 valve engine gearbox into my 12 valve and was looking for parts compatibility, apparently the gearboxes are identical outside so bolt up no problem.

My OE clutch is in the garage at the moment so I will have a measure up and see what is what.

regards

Dave

EDIT: Just been on to 'TOYO' and the part numbers are different for the clutch components as well so something somewhere is different?

EDIT 2:

Flywheel are different, evidence thus far suggests the clutch sizes are different?

None of this is important but worth knowing.
 
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OK everything has been ordered and delivered, sorted a couple of things i.e. I have changed the breather system a little so the CDL motor is now getting it's own fresh air, I also confirmed the unlock/lock position of my CDL motor so it gets bolted on correctly 'synched' otherwise might burn out if not set right. Also checked and confirmed all was well by cycling the motor and checked the 'diff lock engaged' switch/wiring/dash light is good, I could hear the front and rear lockers doing their 'thing', front sounds great with a gentle whirr and clunk but the rear sounds like a bag of nails grinding back and forth, car has stood for months so perhaps when I drive it and some lube gets splashed up there it might sound a little e better, I have changed the oil in the differentials both ends in preparation for the big day (next Friday) so fingers crossed all should be well.

regards

Dave
 
At last! The LC is finally back together. New Aisin clutch kit, new pilot bearing and new slave cylinder, and of course the two reconditioned boxes. All at 233,100 miles!

The install went pretty much as per the book and there were no surprises, I removed and refitted the drain plugs in both the GB and the TB, a very small amount of clean oil dripped out but that was about it. Then filled up with a good quality 80/90 mineral oil, I have read about various ideas of using different oils but, as these are reconditioned units I did not want to screw up the warranty if I needed to make a claim.

I also drained the fuel tank and fitted a new fuel filter, pumped up the fuel pressure and turned the key, despite standing for more months than I care to think about the engine started first turn on the one battery (remember I did the 12v starter mod a couple of years back?) as I had forgotten to press the manual parallel button as the centre console with the control switch was not fitted yet.

I could not find the new nuts and bolts for the front prop shaft so decided to fit that next week, I have the CDL button so no issues there.......yet! After leaving the engine to warm and checking for leaks I finally decided to move her off the ramp. Reversed out nice and steady and selected first to move off, the car moved but was driving as if the clutch was slipping, of course I might have the CDL button fitted but I have to press it to get drive...blonde moment. The car was moving under the steam of the viscous coupling! So after pressing the button, off I went, a short drive was in order as the car had no test so a quick run around the block confirmed all was well, slight resistance 1-2 and 3-2, so I assume that will improve, having said that if it stayed as it is now I would be very happy.

Both boxes are very very quiet, I have yet to fit the gearstick covers and centre console so that is good news, engine is a bit smoky in the headlights of a following car so some injector cleaner will have to go in.

I must say I am very happy with the two units thus far and will report any problems if they come to light.

Car back in the garage for the moment as other stuff is taking centre stage most of next weeks, hope to start using her on a regular basis again.

regards

Dave
 
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Well I made a cock up already! No excuses, I asked the guys in the workshop if they could get me a good quality 80/90 oil for the two boxes. Sure enough it turned up, I noted the big numbers/letter 80/90W and thought no more of it. It was only when Frank at Land Cruiser Club forum in the UK pointed out that I should not be using an EP formula in the gearbox as the EP additive attacks the synchromesh that I checked out the packaging, sure enough it is 80/90 EP API GL5. So that oil will need to come out, the problem I have found is that GL numbers from 5 down to 2 have an EP additive, only GL 1 has no EP.

Have contacted Castrol and Morrison Lubricants to see what the deal is, did another quick run yesterday morning along the coast and she drives real fine, the road is quite winding and I felt the nose pushing deep into the corners as in under steer, trying to run wide and then I remembered, I am only running the rear prop so am missing the front drive to pull it around the corners.

Need to get that sorted as well, first things first though, got to get that oil out of there.

regards

Dave
 
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Castrol and Morrison have replied, I will post up the replies when I get a moment but note, VMX was not the recommendation for the gearbox.

Update, front prop shaft fitted and CDL switch no longer needed to be used. Before either of the prop shafts were fitted I had greased and manipulated and greased again. Although the joints move freely if you swing them back and forth through the entire range of movement you can feel for want of better explanation a gentle 'wear bump', this would indicate the needle rollers are past their best, there are no vibrations but I will put them on the 'things to do' list anyway.

I also refitted the centre console, sorted the alignment on the L/H headlight, and changed the engine oil and filter @ 233,125 miles, this is a 'sacrificial' oil change, just to clean the engine out before renewing the oil and filter again in three or four weeks. I still need to change the GB/TB oils and adjust handbrake and off to the ITV (Inspection) station probably one day next week, also need to fit my refurbished wheels, can't go passed the spare room without popping in and giving them a lick they look that good! :D

regards

Dave
 
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Thanks for that Tapage, I did read through the marketing sheet and it points out that it has EP additives, and then goes on to state it protects synchronisers, and yet it is the EP that apparently eats them anyway. I have started a thread with discussion aimed at subject of oil being used in Toyota transmission, this thread also has the replies from Castrol and Morrison oils, the conclusion seems we need some EP additive to protect the gears but too much and the yellow metal synchroniser gets corroded.

You can find the discussion here:

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/53481-Manual-gearbox-oil-discussion

Thanks again

regards

Dave
 
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Just an update, the supplier of my GB and TB has stipulated that the warranty would be affected if I did not fill with 80/90 EP oil. I asked them which GL grade and they replied:

'The oil viscosity should meet Toyota's specification', so very non committal there.

I will let you know what I end up using later but Castrol does not recommended VMX for our manual vehicles.

regards

Dave
 
Get the :popcorn: ready!

So the LC was taken to the ITV (inspection station) and despite standing for well over a year she passed first time :bounce:....and then failed:crybaby:........and then passed :bounce2:.....and then failed:bang:....finally she passed:bounce::bounce2:.

I will explain, I had taken my car to the 'local' station this is only about 30 odd miles away......yeh I know, anyway the guy noticed the previous period of time lapsed and the low mileage since then and I explained about TB failure, lack of parts blah blah. The test went well, one of the main beam bulbs despite doing it's job during the pre inspection this morning, it decided to take the afternoon off. Everything was great, the car was off the pit and parked outside, he (the inspector) was waiting for access to one of the terminals so he could print my pass ticket off. As we were waiting he was looking out at the LC and then looked at the papers. All of a sudden he went outside and started looking through the windows, then to the papers in his hand then back to the car? He has just realised this car had 8 seats. And on the paperwork it said 8, he then declared my insurance is invalid as cars are only allowed 7 seats, anything else and it is a mini bus, the LC when sold in Spain has only 5 seats as per the import version to the UK. So that stopped the process as the car was declared illegal and of course fails the inspection :bang:

So I explained that my insurance company was aware of the issue and that if he would care to look over my papers the car is registered with the insurance company as SEVEN seats and here it is in black and white. Ah that's it, show him papers that normally eases the bureaucracy, ah yes that seems to have it sorted and we were heading for the pass 'booth' again, another glance over the car and he asks why there is a seat belt missing, I explained the SEVEN seat rule, without a seat belt it makes sure you cannot carry an eighth person. FAILED!! It is illegal to have a seat in a car without a seat belt, and I cannot remove the seat as that is classed as a modification!:deadhorse:

So I drove back to the workshop and refitted the belt, returned to the station (new headlamp bulb as well), and then she finally passed. This is the 'third world' part of Spain I just cannot get used to, and so once again I have a 'legal' and 'illegal' car for another year!! I have to go to the Toyota main stealer sometime in the future and I am going to ask for permission to have a 'reforma'. This is a report from an engineer confirming the car will not explode or bring forth demons from the great car god in the sky if the seats are removed permanently, I then have to go to an independent workshop (my workshop will not do despite being registered), they remove the seats and stamp the reforma, I then go back to the test station for them to alter my vehicle specification paper, each stage 'may' involve making a payment :mad: This should allow me to remove the damn seats and the belts permanently and have it noted on the official papers.

Just a note:

On the way to the station I got a strange vibration as if a wheel was out of balance, stopped and restarted and it was gone, happened twice on the way to the station and once on the return, the vibe was enough for me to get out and check the wheel nuts but they were ok. Has anyone ever had a tyre go out of balance and then back again? I am thinking about it sitting around and the steel bands in the tyre taking a set? I then drove back to the station and then home again and no vibes, runs smooth and is a delight to drive. My refurbished alloys go on later in the week if I get ten minutes so there will be a balancing session anyway.

regards

Dave
 
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Since it is possible for the engine cooling fan to damage the radiator when the gearbox is removed I removed it, I had not been running the shroud for months before it came off the road with no ill effects to the engine running temperature, so the fan takes seconds to remove. As I was going to replace the fan with an electric one I did not bother replacing it whilst running around getting stuff done and also the inspection this week etc. Today I was headed to the workshop with the fan to start the install and got a call from a friend with a Day Van, great hulk of a thing had busted a trans cooler pipe. Fortunately he had made it more or less to the 'campo' and was pretty much clear of the road, in Spain it is illegal to tow a car on the public highway.

So I threw a strap under it and towed him through the countryside (my poor gearbox not been in two weeks!) for a distance of around 4 km, (need to check the distance). I drove in Low range in second gear all the way watching the temp gauge, I had put the vehicle heater on hot and the blower on full to help the cooling system, despite dragging the van's fat arse up hill and down dale the highest reading I got was around 3/4 up the gauge. I have no doubt if I had continued I would have risked overheating, when we reached his house I unhooked the tow rope and took the LC for a drive back along the track, within a few hundred metres the temp came straight down very quickly, this clearly shows the LC cooling system is way over-specced. That bodes well for the electric fan install, I never normally tow anything anywhere in the LC and as the OE setup allows for towing around three tons I am not anticipating any issues with the electric setup. I will of course keep the OE offering in a bag somewhere handy...you know......just in case until I have checked it out.

May have found the correct oil for the gearbox at last, Toyota did not have any and would need to order it...grrrrh!

Should have that changed at the weekend as well.

Fan install this weekend, next Tuesday pm the alloys go on.

Partner wants to go to Madrid on the 18th 1000+ km round trip and again in January, at least I will get some miles on the gearbox.

regards

Dave
 
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Well nothing within a 50+ mile radius has been found that is synthetic or semi synthetic 75/90w GL4. The Toyota dealer insists the 'Universal fully synthetic 75/90w GL5 is perfect but will not give a guarantee if it causes a failure!! There is some kind of belief that as the number 5 is higher than 4 then it MUST be better, bloody frustrating to say the least! As mentioned I have a 1 day 1000+ km round trip coming up so will need to get my finger out, for now it seems I will have to go with an ordinary mineral 80/90w GL4 until I can source a synthetic.

FWIW the GL5 is still in there, I wanted to get some miles on the car before the long trip to make sure everything else is ok, bearing in mind the amount of time it had been off the road. From cold all gears are pretty easy to select and within 10/15 minutes loosen up a little, shift then remains constant.

regards
Dave
 
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Installed the electric fan today, as I am unsure at this moment whether it will work I have just jury rigged the wiring, safe but not pretty. I will switch the fan on manually for the moment and have just wired for the lower speed, it was a cool day today so not a test at all but, I let the temp gauge rise from it's normal position to mid point this took about 6/7 minutes and switched the fan on, temps dropped back to normal running within 40 seconds. Not a particularly scientific test but it shows it does at least work on the slow speed at the temps we have at the moment. I will leave it as such for now whilst I do a little testing, the fan complete with modified shroud can be installed/removed in around 2 minutes. There is also a little extra space around the engine so that is a bonus when doing any work in there.

regards

Dave
 
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Just for interest and pub talk point of view, on the 18th of this month I am driving around 350 miles stopping for 30 minutes, and then driving 350 miles back on the exact same route cancelling out hills etc. I will be running no engine driven fan and will fill the tank to brim when I have covered the first 330 and then again when I arrive home. This will be a VERY careful fuel check brim to brim on each fill, mostly motorway at a steady ish 75 MPH except the last couple of miles, anyone want to run a book/poll on my manual car's MPG?

Remember it will be imperial gallons using the formula of 1 gallon = 4.54 litres as we are metric in Spain.

regards

Dave
 
Surprised no one jumped at the chance to 'play' but then I remembered you guys use petrol or gasoline, jealousy is not good for you!! :flipoff2: Today the restored wheels went on with new nuts and hub caps, did I mention they look so good I want to lick them? :)

regards

Dave
 

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