Builds My LC 80 thread. (2 Viewers)

[Dave 2000]

Update: 26/10/2020 @ 277,977 Miles

Yes she is still on the ramps but from choice not necessity. Only now do I have to get the car finished in preparation for the yearly ITV, this is the Spanish yearly inspection for cars.

Yesterday I greased up the four steering ball joints and whilst the grease nipples were exposed on the front UJ and slider of the front propshaft they got done at the same time, I only note that here as a reminder there are others to do.

I made some minor changes to the fridge wiring as well whilst having time on my hands. I tend to plug the fridge in to test and pre-cool before being fitted into the 80. Readers will recall the fridge had to be moved to the left hand side at the rear of the 80 to allow the fan to run in the right direction when blowing over the evaporator. The warm air would then be blown upwards through the 'exhaust' which runs through the middle of my 'wardrobe', thus having warm clothes to put on when camping in cold conditions is welcome. I always have some spare batteries lying around the workshop and use a pair of crocodile clips on some cable and with a plug that matches the fridge I can carry out the aforementioned test and rep- cool. By chance I noticed that the fan was blowing in the wrong direction over the evaporator.

DAMN!!!

Just tried posting my completed post and find the log in has 'timed out'.....without warning!

So I am sitting there typing away and then spell and grammar checking and then post only to find much of the post is missing. The warning only shows up when I attempt to post, annoying at best. I do not like the default setting of 'Remain logged in' so clear the check box. And this in the past allowed at least some time to post a decent reply.

The result is I am now out of time to retype the missing portion of the post, so I will do over the next couple of days.

Thanks for keeping up following my thread.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update and continuation of the previous post that failed.

30/10/2020 @277.988 The 80 was presented for her 'ITV' or yearly inspection, a 100% pass for her.

I have owned many cars, 4x4 in competitions, saloons, sports, even drag raced a serious V12 Jaguar Coupe (XJ12C) with a Manual 5 speed gearbox, all of these cars just come and go but this 80 gives me enjoyment every time I turn the key. I have never kept any vehicle for so long, now in my tenth year of ownership this 26 year old in December old girl is still going strong and I see no sign of parting with her......so impressive!

So to the continuation of the previous post, I am still unsure what happened but will copy this post before.......well posting.

The long and the short of it is when off road and camping the fridge is mounted in a box on a shelf with an open front, this allows the fridge to slide in and out with incurring the cost of a proper slide out. The plug for the fridge is at the rear of the fridge casing and I had a coiled wire that used to stretch when pulling the fridge out, push the fridge back in an the coiled wire would retract however, it would often get caught in the sliding shelf and over time would eventually damage the cable, I cannot go without a fridge so this had to be addressed, of course it is one of those 'when I get around to it' jobs. Anyway I drilled a hole in the sliding shelf behind the fridge and in the box side I put in a socket with a fixed cable. Now I simply take the plug protruding through the sliding shelf and plug it into the fridge, the cable then is under the shelf and moves in and out without catching. The wiring in the car was fitted with a male plug, this wiring is coiled up in the jack storage, open the cover and simply plug into the fridge box and it is job done.

The problem was the shape of the plug that prevents it being inserted incorrectly, did not suit the wiring from the plug in the workshop. It was no big deal to swap the wiring behind the fridge plug, but if I had not realised the issue I could have at best blown fuses, or the worst way find I had damaged the fridge itself. Now of course my 'wardrobe' is back to being heated during winter trips.......I am such a woos!

Today Spain went into a major lock down once again, before it was about staying in your own province, now you have to stay in your own municipality, so very severe restrictions indeed!

Thanks for reading and keeping up with my thread, stay safe out there guys and girls!

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

The lock down again hits us here in Spain and as it did it occurred to me that although I have done the occasional off road day out, I have not had the tent opened in over a year! Inside is pillows, blanket and sleeping bag. So as last Friday was the 13th I don't go out much further than the terrace. I decided it would not hurt to open up the tent and air it out. Living in the campo means dusty or mud depending on recent weather. So I took the car into the neighbours front garden and set it up. The inside of the tent along with the aforementioned contents were all dry and good, so other than leaving a blanket between the folded mattress the rest was taken out. The nieghbours decided we should have a picture or two to post up on our Whatsapp group.

So other than for a laugh and as I rarely post my own pictures, below are a couple of lock down camping shots.

Thanks for following and keeping up.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well nothing to report other than the parts to overhaul the front hubs are on the shelf, new CV's or Birfs, upper and lower bearings, spindle bushes, new nuts and bolts sets will be fitted as well. The swivel balls are quite rusty and have been since I purchased the vehicle 10 years ago, I plan to sand down and paint, I have been told or read that POR-15 is the get go for this job.

Of course winter is here and is the ideal time to do this job while work is quiet and the Covid is hovering around, being out in the country keeps me pretty much isolated other than a couple of neighbours, so staying safe.

Something odd happened today though on the site, I got a ten year award and then a 5 year award for joining in 2019, odd things happening eh?

Stay safe all, HNY and hope for a better 2021.

 

[Dave 2000]

First update for 2021 @279,704 miles.

Despite having all the parts on the shelf for the hub/CV or Birf rebuild I could not take the 80 off of the road. As I could not work during the continually changing Covid - 19 rules I used the 80 to just get out and out and about leaving my van at home. So it has been many very short runs, with just the one over about 12 - 15 miles the rest in this local area! I don't consider this to be good for any engine let alone an engine designed over thirty years ago.

Since the last oil change in October last year so just three months and the 80 only having covered 1,716 miles I have given the old girl a little love and attention. This was to be my usual procedure, warm engine drain oil and change filter, refill with 9 litres of Repsol 5/40 fully synthetic, the replacement filter on this occasion is a Purflux part number LS895. With the engine run at fast tick over for fifteen minutes the fully synthetic oil was drained, the filter was again changed for a second Purflux. Followers will recall last year the debacle of my regular Repsol 10/40 mineral oil having the formulation changed by the manufacturer to a 'synthetic blend'. This 'improvement' actually lowered oil pressure at idle and was picked up by my oil pressure early warning modifications. Questions were asked about getting the earlier mineral 10/40 at my regular supplier, I was told it was no longer available however, yesterday I managed to get 10 litres from another supplier but no guarantee how much longer this would be possible. So, with a second new Purflux filter the engine was refilled with the new 10/40 mineral oil.

There are a couple of other things going on, the step on the drivers side (RHD) has a really annoying vibration at idle, I have to shoulder the blame for this. When the rust around the right rear arch was cut out and new metal welded in I had to remove the step to get right under where the arch and sill met. Seeing the bolts look rather rusty, I deemed it better to drill out the rivets holding the step to the supports. I also had to cut the IIRC rearmost two step supports? I am guessing one of them is not quite in line, this would had pulled a couple of the rivets causing the rattle. The plan is to drill through the top of the step and put a couple of small bolts through, a lot less work that pulling the step and cutting the brackets off and re-welding them back on. Whilst I cannot guarantee that is the problem it is almost certainly the only reason for the rivets to be 'pulled'. I will be going back out in awhile and have a closer look and report back.

The left hand headlight mists up very quickly in the car jet wash, and although it dries out very quickly I will remove the headlamp and check out the seal around the glass and rubber cover at the rear.

Other than that the usual impeccable reliability and service, the 80 still gives enjoyment when using her.

Thanks for reading and following.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

The follow up for the step problem mentioned in the previous post is as follows. The rivets had pulled as per expected, there is one at the front end of the step where it meets the arch or flare, and a further two at the next support along to the rear. The rear was not a problem as I surmised, I thought I had misaligned the supports when welding them back on but the supports were aligned OK. The problem was where the rivets had been put back in they had pulled through, the drill probably made the holes a little larger when removing the OE rivets? And the metal on the return of the step is very thin and narrow. I drilled a single hole in the front support and put a round head screw through from the top of the arch rubber or plastic and used a Nyloc nut underneath. At the next support I drilled two holes still small but used number plate rivets which have a wider head along with a wider profile once pulled into place, that should be the end of that damn rattle!

The headlamp misting up had to be my fault though. The rubber waterproofing 'doughnut' at the rear of the inner lamp was missing! When tidying around in the workshop I had seen a number of those in boxes due to having swapped RHD headlamps for LHD versions, so was not surprised when I saw them, when did I take off the inner rubber and not replace it? I have no f*cking idea! So a proper hands up there, I took one of about half a dozen from the drawer and fitted it, the rest I threw in the rubbish box.

There was a couple of loose screws on the grill also easily sorted, and whilst there I decided to look at the orange indicator lamps below the headlights. Over time they have faded and I was looking for replacements and then I hit on an idea. The Acrylic on headlamps of modern cars fades like mad in the sun over here, there are various kits to sort this and I decided to try it on the orange plastic, it works great! I did the same for the side repeaters on the wings nearest to the doors, and again a great result!

So just a few odds and ends sorted, if I am up to it then I will be taking apart the right side rear door panel tomorrow to find out why the window does not work, I can hear the mechanism moving so reckon the window carriage has come adrift?

Get back to you.

Many thanks.

Regards

Dave

 

[BILT4ME]

The follow up for the step problem mentioned in the previous post is as follows. The rivets had pulled as per expected, there is one at the front end of the step where it meets the arch or flare, and a further two at the next support along to the rear. The rear was not a problem as I surmised, I thought I had misaligned the supports when welding them back on but the supports were aligned OK. The problem was where the rivets had been put back in they had pulled through, the drill probably made the holes a little larger when removing the OE rivets? And the metal on the return of the step is very thin and narrow. I drilled a single hole in the front support and put a round head screw through from the top of the arch rubber or plastic and used a Nyloc nut underneath. At the next support I drilled two holes still small but used number plate rivets which have a wider head along with a wider profile once pulled into place, that should be the end of that damn rattle!

The headlamp misting up had to be my fault though. The rubber waterproofing 'doughnut' at the rear of the inner lamp was missing! When tidying around in the workshop I had seen a number of those in boxes due to having swapped RHD headlamps for LHD versions, so was not surprised when I saw them, when did I take off the inner rubber and not replace it? I have no f*cking idea! So a proper hands up there, I took one of about half a dozen from the drawer and fitted it, the rest I threw in the rubbish box.

There was a couple of loose screws on the grill also easily sorted, and whilst there I decided to look at the orange indicator lamps below the headlights. Over time they have faded and I was looking for replacements and then I hit on an idea. The Acrylic on headlamps of modern cars fades like mad in the sun over here, there are various kits to sort this and I decided to try it on the orange plastic, it works great! I did the same for the side repeaters on the wings nearest to the doors, and again a great result!

So just a few odds and ends sorted, if I am up to it then I will be taking apart the right side rear door panel tomorrow to find out why the window does not work, I can hear the mechanism moving so reckon the window carriage has come adrift?

Get back to you.

Many thanks.

Regards

Dave

I hadn't thought about RHD headlights being different from LHD headlights, but it makes sense!

Do you have a pic of the side marker lights you are referring to? Are they in the front fender "under" the mirror? I would like to add a side marker turn signal to my truck and that would be the place to do it. If there are factory part numbers, I would like to use them.

 

[Dave 2000]

I hadn't thought about RHD headlights being different from LHD headlights, but it makes sense!

Do you have a pic of the side marker lights you are referring to? Are they in the front fender "under" the mirror? I would like to add a side marker turn signal to my truck and that would be the place to do it. If there are factory part numbers, I would like to use them.

To clarify the terminology, in Europe the 'repeaters' on the wings are just that, they only flash with the indicators are on. I/we understand 'side markers' are the lights on the side of a vehicle that come on with the side lights, and not a common fitment here in Europe. Long vehicles trucks for example do have side markers and they are amber the full length of the vehicle.

Post number 603 in the link below shows the 'repeater' on the upper level of the wing just in front of the front door, this is a standard fitment. Note the side lights are all white for the European models but mine have been swapped for a pair I purchased from @IanB a number of years back, they show a white light at the front (legal requirement) and an amber (side marker) in one unit, I have not been confronted by the Spanish inspection people about this, they can be really picky.

Builds - My LC 80 thread. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/page-31#post-13634452

I hope that helps.

regards

Dave

 

[BILT4ME]

To clarify the terminology, in Europe the 'repeaters' on the wings are just that, they only flash with the indicators are on. I/we understand 'side markers' are the lights on the side of a vehicle that come on with the side lights, and not a common fitment here in Europe. Long vehicles trucks for example do have side markers and they are amber the full length of the vehicle.

Post number 603 in the link below shows the 'repeater' on the upper level of the wing just in front of the front door, this is a standard fitment. Note the side lights are all white for the European models but mine have been swapped for a pair I purchased from @IanB a number of years back, they show a white light at the front (legal requirement) and an amber (side marker) in one unit, I have not been confronted by the Spanish inspection people about this, they can be really picky.

Builds - My LC 80 thread. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/page-31#post-13634452

I hope that clears that helps.

regards

Dave

Thank you!

The repeaters a e exactly what I'm thinking about.

When I search partsouq, I don't get a part number listing because obviously my VIN doesn't have it.

It there a harness add on as well as a lot that part number for each side or if you would provide your VIN via PM, I could use it to search what I am looking for.

 

[Dave 2000]

PM sent.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update:

With travel restrictions still rife throughout Spain the 80 is spending plenty of time sitting in the sun. Since moving nearly two years ago I still have to modify the garage of my new home to to be able to lift the roof rack off. Followers will recall my previous garage had a very high ceiling but narrow doors. The idea was to reverse the 80 into the garage and attach four pulleys to the ceiling and simply lift the rack off of the 80 with the tent, sand ladders, Hi lift, second spare wheel, and fuel cans all still in place. I had to get a carpenter friend to take the doors (4) off and widen the opening. This was done many years ago and it was a simple matter to reverse in, lift the rack and drive out. To help with the weight I did take the spare wheel off and the fuel cans if they were full. This had worked for a number of years and after moving home I want to replicate this setup in the new garage.

The first problem was the garage door was wide enough to get the 80 through but too low, after settling in the neighbour and I took out the complete 'up and over' door and frame, and with the blockwork over the concrete viga (beam) spanning the opening taken down, and then the viga itself removed we fitted a steel 'I' beam higher up. With the beam lying on it's side and the door system refitted it gave ample room to reverse the 80 along with the roof rack and it's entire contents into the garage.

The next plan was to winch the loaded rack up to the ceiling up and out of the way however, one of the problems is the height of the roof. Once lifted the rack would be high enough to allow the 80 to drive out but would pose a risk to anyone a little on the tall side walking into the garage. I have been procrastinating whether to put bright oraange tape around the rack support legs and keep my fingers crossed, or lifting the entire roof! During this period of lack of use due to the Covid-19 virus the 80 has been parked outside, the solar panel under the roof rack pulled out and keeping the two batteries charged. What I have noticed is the paint on the bodywork or rather more accurately the lacquer over the paint that had started peeling sometime back, but now with standing around and being exposed 24/7 it is going crazy so I want to put her in the garage. So as plans are being drawn up as I type to lift the roof I have purchased a third solar panel and will fit it in the next few days.

The panel will be fitted on one of the tool rooms roof beside the garage and the cabling will enter the garage wall directly behind the right hand side of the 80's rear bumper, followers will recall I have a socket there that I use to plug my second roaming solar panel when camping out? The plan is to have a straight line between the plug from the new solar panel fixed to the wall into the bumper socket, this is to allow the plug to simply pull out if driving out of the garage and having forgotten to disconnect it, yeh I know my memory is terrible! The new solar panel arrived yesterday and I will make up a Dexion mount for it at the weekend assuming I get the time, this will allow the 80 to be out of the sun and yet both batteries to be maintained.

The lifting of the roof will be taking place over the next few weeks, it must be done before the summer as working outside it would be waaaay too hot.

Thanks for keeping up.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well the solar panel arrived safe and sound and yesterday I made up a frame out of 'Dexion' to support it at around 45 degrees. I gave the framework a few coats of white 'Hardcore' spray paint and bolted the panel to it. I used the connector from my existing roaming panel so I could get the job done, a replacement connector is on it's way but won't get here until next week, I am not patient enough to wait. I placed the panel in the best position to get a good exposure to the sun, with it pointing roughly South it will be well exposed most of the day as the sun passes through from East to West, I am only looking for less than an amp a day so this will be fine. Being a 'Cortijo' style house with a flat roof the store rooms have the same design, and drilling these to make fixings can be risky, these houses are old and I could be opening up a can of worms with leaks etc. So I purchased a new tube of 'No Nails', this is great stuff and I have used it in the past. With the panel in place I masked around the three runs of Dexion and lifted the panel away, I gave each run between the masking tape a good squirt and with the can empty I lowered the panel and frame into place, the idea being the adhesive would pass through the holes in the frame allowing it to hold fast.

Next to the cabling, with a small hole drilled in the rear wall of the garage I run the cable through and up to the roof, with a couple of MC4 solar connectors it was easy peasy. Back in the garage I took the plug and pushed it into the socket in the rear bumper, with the switch on the distribution board turned on the up went the voltage, all my panels are 20+ volts and the regulator soon does it's job. I checked eveything a couple of times earlier and again just before typing this, all is fine, we do get some viscious winds here so I am going with fingers crossed the adhesive holds.

Now the 80 can sit in the garage out of the sun and both batteries (the second via a VSR) will be maintained fully charged, my last check showed the panel putting out around 3.2 amps and the regulator increasing this to around 3.5, this will of course reduce as the regulator comes out of 'bulk', so all good, a very well worthwile mod.

Thanks for reading.

Regards

Dave

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Well the solar panel arrived safe and sound and yesterday I made up a frame out of 'Dexion' to support it at around 45 degrees. I gave the framework a few coats of white 'Hardcore' spray paint and bolted the panel to it. I used the connector from my existing roaming panel so I could get the job done, a replacement connector is on it's way but won't get here until next week, I am not patient enough to wait. I placed the panel in the best position to get a good exposure to the sun, with it pointing roughly South it will be well exposed most of the day as the sun passes through from East to West, I am only looking for less than an amp a day so this will be fine. Being a 'Cortijo' style house with a flat roof the store rooms have the same design, and drilling these to make fixings can be risky, these houses are old and I could be opening up a can of worms with leaks etc. So I purchased a new tube of 'No Nails', this is great stuff and I have used it in the past. With the panel in place I masked around the three runs of Dexion and lifted the panel away, I gave each run between the masking tape a good squirt and with the can empty I lowered the panel and frame into place, the idea being the adhesive would pass through the holes in the frame allowing it to hold fast.

Next to the cabling, with a small hole drilled in the rear wall of the garage I run the cable through and up to the roof, with a couple of MC4 solar connectors it was easy peasy. Back in the garage I took the plug and pushed it into the socket in the rear bumper, with the switch on the distribution board turned on the up went the voltage, all my panels are 20+ volts and the regulator soon does it's job. I checked eveything a couple of times earlier and again just before typing this, all is fine, we do get some viscious winds here so I am going with fingers crossed the adhesive holds.

Now the 80 can sit in the garage out of the sun and both batteries (the second via a VSR) will be maintained fully charged, my last check showed the panel putting out around 3.2 amps and the regulator increasing this to around 3.5, this will of course reduce as the regulator comes out of 'bulk', so all good, a very well worthwile mod.

Thanks for reading.

Regards

Dave

Well done! Have any pictures of the panel?

 

[Dave 2000]

Well done! Have any pictures of the panel?

Sure I will pop up om the roof and take a couple, it is a typical unit, nothing special, it is half of the wattage of the one that slides out from under the roof rack, and the third that plugs into the back bumper with a long cable for roaming purposes.

I will get a pic tomorrow if I get a moment.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update: @SteelHunterFJ80 Sorry mate not been on the roof yet, I got distracted by the following:

Use of the 80 lately has been somewhat sporadic given the border controls due to the virus, and the shops being just a few miles away it was simpler and easier on the 80 diesel to jump in my work van. The 80 normally sits outside with just one of the solar panels pulled out from under the roof rack, with this plugged in the batteries are kept at full charge. The recent install of an additional solar panel on the roof meant I could leave the 80 in the dark garage but still have solar power run down a cable and in through the rear of the garage, i.e. again the batteries are kept charged. I went to the garage this morning to get a ladder out to photograph the panel on the roof for @SteelHunterFJ80 when a glance in the 80 showed the aux battery voltage reading significantly lower than that of the starter battery? I then realised I had not plugged in the solar panel on the roof but, that is not the point, the aux battery would not normally be so low after just a couple of days in the garage.

I started the car and took her for a run, there is a 150 amp alternator fitted and after about half an hours drive the battery was looking healthier, of course not perfect but better. The rest of the day the car was left out in the overcast sky but with two solar panels exposed to what sunlight we did get I can confirm both batteries were pretty much up to snuff. Without doubt there is a problem of parasitic draw somewhere, a couple of months before Xmas I noticed the aux battery was low if the solar panels and not been used, I assumed it was because the batteries were well into the four year life span I expected so replaced them both. The 80 since has always parked with at least one of the solar panels connected, this had clearly masked a problem I did not know I had, parking the 80 in the darkened garage for a few days is unknown.

I took DMM readings as soon as the solar panels were disconnected and every half an hour afterwards until now (22.40 and pissing down with rain!) The VSR had disconnected the two batteries somewhere after about three....ish hours of no solar panel input, that in itself is not right, the norm would be one day or more before the batteries were isolated, if the car had a good run it could be as long as two days or more before the VSR was activated, so for the moment the car is in the garage with a mains trickle charger I will leave it until I go out to work in the morning, this will ensure both batteries really are fully charged, I will update as I go with this, parasitic losses can be a pain to trace.

Thanks for reading and keeping up.

Regards

Dave

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Update: @SteelHunterFJ80 Sorry mate not been on the roof yet, I got distracted by the following:

Use of the 80 lately has been somewhat sporadic given the border controls due to the virus, and the shops being just a few miles away it was simpler and easier on the 80 diesel to jump in my work van. The 80 normally sits outside with just one of the solar panels pulled out from under the roof rack, with this plugged in the batteries are kept at full charge. The recent install of an additional solar panel on the roof meant I could leave the 80 in the dark garage but still have solar power run down a cable and in through the rear of the garage, i.e. again the batteries are kept charged. I went to the garage this morning to get a ladder out to photograph the panel on the roof for @SteelHunterFJ80 when a glance in the 80 showed the aux battery voltage reading significantly lower than that of the starter battery? I then realised I had not plugged in the solar panel on the roof but, that is not the point, the aux battery would not normally be so low after just a couple of days in the garage.

I started the car and took her for a run, there is a 150 amp alternator fitted and after about half an hours drive the battery was looking healthier, of course not perfect but better. The rest of the day the car was left out in the overcast sky but with two solar panels exposed to what sunlight we did get I can confirm both batteries were pretty much up to snuff. Without doubt there is a problem of parasitic draw somewhere, a couple of months before Xmas I noticed the aux battery was low if the solar panels and not been used, I assumed it was because the batteries were well into the four year life span I expected so replaced them both. The 80 since has always parked with at least one of the solar panels connected, this had clearly masked a problem I did not know I had, parking the 80 in the darkened garage for a few days is unknown.

I took DMM readings as soon as the solar panels were disconnected and every half an hour afterwards until now (22.40 and pissing down with rain!) The VSR had disconnected the two batteries somewhere after about three....ish hours of no solar panel input, that in itself is not right, the norm would be one day or more before the batteries were isolated, if the car had a good run it could be as long as two days or more before the VSR was activated, so for the moment the car is in the garage with a mains trickle charger I will leave it until I go out to work in the morning, this will ensure both batteries really are fully charged, I will update as I go with this, parasitic losses can be a pain to trace.

Thanks for reading and keeping up.

Regards

Dave

It's funny that you mentioned parasitic draw as I myself might be hunting down a similar issue. Good luck in your diagnosis!

 

[Dave 2000]

I will start looking this pm, I am a mechanic by trade so hopefully should not be to difficult to find.

Regards

Dave

(Dave sign's off with a mental crossing of his fingers)

 

[Dave 2000]

Checked both batteries and after a 20 second use of the headlights I get 12.72 (Aux) and 12.68 on the starter battery, but both were recovering. So I will be going out later to check readings and start disconnecting circuits.

in the meantime a couple of snaps as request of the solar panel on the roof will be posted in a short while.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

@SteelHunterFJ80

The pictures you requested, the framework is from 'Dexion' I had from some old shelves that were going rusty and were thrown out. The Dexion framework is held to the roof tiles by 'No Nails', this saves drilling holes and risking leaks, it rarely rains in this part of Spain but when it does......it really does, and it was ironic that last it 'persisted' down for some time, followed by a windstorm full of dust and then a two second downpour just to make sure the cars and terraces were filthy with dust!

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So what did I find with regards the parasitic? Nothing! Zilch! Nada!

Soooo disappointed! I took readings from both batteries, this was whilst they were isolated, they were within a few hundredths of each other. I did the voltage reading across fuses, I did the ammeter between circuits method and found nothing, no parasitic draw found anywhere!

I have a carbon pile load tester and 'hit' each battery in turn, these testers are quite aggressive but again the batteries took it on the chin. Unless there is something that occurs after a few hours within the vehicle electronics I am unsure? Whilst in there I also put an ammeter between the alternator charge lead, failing diodes will allow a battery to discharge that way, again nothing.

I will keep a close eye on proceedings and update accordingly.

Thanks for reading.

Regards

Dave