I went to restart my 96 Land Cruiser (1FZ-FE) and the switch turned on, but it wouldn't start. The key flopped all the way to the right , but wouldn't return and there was no "spring" back from the start position.
I noticed that my radio had power, my ABS light was on (because it's always on), and my blower fan was running, regardless of where I put the key or removed it from the ignition.
What this is:
The Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod broke internally.
I am going to show what happened and how to fix it. This is common on the 100 Series, but NOT on the 80 Series. I found that there appears to only be one other with a similar failure that has posted on 'Mud. I will link other threads for references.
(Assume for the FAQ section)
What this is NOT:
This is NOT a lock cylinder failure where you cannot get your key out or where the key comes out no matter what position its in.
This is NOT about the ignition SWITCH failure where it wouldn't start.
Key words:
Ignition Switch
Ignition Rod
Ignition Key
Key Lock
Lock Cylinder
Key Cylinder
No Start
My truck:
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE
331,011 Miles (135,000 miles done by me)
This happened with ZERO warning. I was going to move the truck to another place and when I jumped in, turned the key like I always do, and everything turned on like I expected, then when I rotated to the "START" position, nothing happened and the key stayed in that position. I then turned the key to the "OFF" position and I was able to remove the key. That's when I noticed that everything was still on, but the truck didn't start. The steering wheel didn't bind, the key didn't turn hard, and I had no prior indications that something was ready to give up.
(I was lucky it happened at my work warehouse so I had a place to put it)
My first thought was that the ignition switch failed and that's why it didn't spring back. Usually that will engage the starter and it STAYS engaged, but that was NOT the case here.
So, I realized that my first step was to disconnect the battery so it didn't kill the battery, so I rolled up the windows (fortunately the switch was on enough to operate the windows)
I disconnected the battery so I could start the diagnosis.
My key stayed in this position. I could move it back and remove it, but the dash lights stayed on and the blower kept running.
Tools Needed:
Flashlight or Headlight
1/4" drive ratchet
10mm socket, hex, 1/4" drive
9/16" combination wrench (for the battery post)
Narrow 1/8" flat screwdriver, about 6" long
1/4" flat screwdriver, about 9" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 10" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 6" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 2" long
Dental pick
Mirror (to see the screw on the back of the ignition switch)
6" needle nose pliers
Tube of dielectric grease
FSM (Note that all the information and diagrams are in the "SR-009 Components Tilt Steering Column" section of the FSM)
Parts Needed:
Used Column that has a good Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod
1) Disconnect the NEGATIVE post on the battery and isolate the cables so they cannot touch the post during movement or shaking of the vehicle.
2) Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the Instrument Lower Finish Panel. Pay attention to screw sizes, types, and location, as well as count.
3) Using the 10mmsocket and ratchet wrench, remove the Lower Finish Panel Steel Crash Plate, behind the Instrument Lower Finish Panel (not shown below) Pay attention to screw sizes, types, and location, as well as count.
You do NOT need to disconnect the hood and fuel door cables, nor the throttle cable (if installed)
You do NOT need to remove the steering column clam shell or the steering wheel.
4) Remove the Instrument Upper Finish Panel (Just above the steering column clamshell, but below the gauge cluster). This piece has multiple push-in pins and tabs to hold it in place.
You do NOT need to remove the gauge cluster.
5) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, remove the one screw that holds on the ignition switch lighted ring around the ignition key lock.
6) GENTLY persuade the lighted ring off the key cylinder.
7) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, remove the two screws that hold on the Key Interlock Solenoid on the bottom of the Column Upper Bracket (the aluminum barrel looking thingy with the leg or post that hangs from the steering column)
8) Per the FSM, insert the key into the Key Cylinder, and turn it to the "ACC" position.
9) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, push UP on the pin in the bottom of the Column Upper Bracket below the Key Cylinder to release the Key Cylinder from it's location.
10) Pull the Key Cylinder from the Column Upper Bracket Housing.
11) Using a pair of Needle Nose Pliers, grasp the flat blade inside the barrel of the Column Upper Bracket and GENTLY twist CCW as you GENTLY pull outward to remove the Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod, or whatever pieces there are of it. (MAKE NOTE OF THE ORIENTATION HOW IT IS WHEN YOU STARTED AND WHEN IT IS RELEASED) (MAKE NOTE OF WHEN YOU TURN CCW AND CW)
I noticed that my radio had power, my ABS light was on (because it's always on), and my blower fan was running, regardless of where I put the key or removed it from the ignition.
What this is:
The Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod broke internally.
I am going to show what happened and how to fix it. This is common on the 100 Series, but NOT on the 80 Series. I found that there appears to only be one other with a similar failure that has posted on 'Mud. I will link other threads for references.
(Assume for the FAQ section)
What this is NOT:
This is NOT a lock cylinder failure where you cannot get your key out or where the key comes out no matter what position its in.
This is NOT about the ignition SWITCH failure where it wouldn't start.
Key words:
Ignition Switch
Ignition Rod
Ignition Key
Key Lock
Lock Cylinder
Key Cylinder
No Start
My truck:
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE
331,011 Miles (135,000 miles done by me)
This happened with ZERO warning. I was going to move the truck to another place and when I jumped in, turned the key like I always do, and everything turned on like I expected, then when I rotated to the "START" position, nothing happened and the key stayed in that position. I then turned the key to the "OFF" position and I was able to remove the key. That's when I noticed that everything was still on, but the truck didn't start. The steering wheel didn't bind, the key didn't turn hard, and I had no prior indications that something was ready to give up.
(I was lucky it happened at my work warehouse so I had a place to put it)
My first thought was that the ignition switch failed and that's why it didn't spring back. Usually that will engage the starter and it STAYS engaged, but that was NOT the case here.
So, I realized that my first step was to disconnect the battery so it didn't kill the battery, so I rolled up the windows (fortunately the switch was on enough to operate the windows)
I disconnected the battery so I could start the diagnosis.
My key stayed in this position. I could move it back and remove it, but the dash lights stayed on and the blower kept running.
Tools Needed:
Flashlight or Headlight
1/4" drive ratchet
10mm socket, hex, 1/4" drive
9/16" combination wrench (for the battery post)
Narrow 1/8" flat screwdriver, about 6" long
1/4" flat screwdriver, about 9" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 10" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 6" long
#2 Phillips (or JIS bit) screwdriver about 2" long
Dental pick
Mirror (to see the screw on the back of the ignition switch)
6" needle nose pliers
Tube of dielectric grease
FSM (Note that all the information and diagrams are in the "SR-009 Components Tilt Steering Column" section of the FSM)
Parts Needed:
Used Column that has a good Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod
1) Disconnect the NEGATIVE post on the battery and isolate the cables so they cannot touch the post during movement or shaking of the vehicle.
2) Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the Instrument Lower Finish Panel. Pay attention to screw sizes, types, and location, as well as count.
3) Using the 10mmsocket and ratchet wrench, remove the Lower Finish Panel Steel Crash Plate, behind the Instrument Lower Finish Panel (not shown below) Pay attention to screw sizes, types, and location, as well as count.
You do NOT need to disconnect the hood and fuel door cables, nor the throttle cable (if installed)
You do NOT need to remove the steering column clam shell or the steering wheel.
4) Remove the Instrument Upper Finish Panel (Just above the steering column clamshell, but below the gauge cluster). This piece has multiple push-in pins and tabs to hold it in place.
You do NOT need to remove the gauge cluster.
5) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, remove the one screw that holds on the ignition switch lighted ring around the ignition key lock.
6) GENTLY persuade the lighted ring off the key cylinder.
7) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, remove the two screws that hold on the Key Interlock Solenoid on the bottom of the Column Upper Bracket (the aluminum barrel looking thingy with the leg or post that hangs from the steering column)
8) Per the FSM, insert the key into the Key Cylinder, and turn it to the "ACC" position.
9) Using one of the Phillips screwdrivers, push UP on the pin in the bottom of the Column Upper Bracket below the Key Cylinder to release the Key Cylinder from it's location.
10) Pull the Key Cylinder from the Column Upper Bracket Housing.
11) Using a pair of Needle Nose Pliers, grasp the flat blade inside the barrel of the Column Upper Bracket and GENTLY twist CCW as you GENTLY pull outward to remove the Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod, or whatever pieces there are of it. (MAKE NOTE OF THE ORIENTATION HOW IT IS WHEN YOU STARTED AND WHEN IT IS RELEASED) (MAKE NOTE OF WHEN YOU TURN CCW AND CW)
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