My FZJ80 restoration project (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Threads
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625
Location
Indiana
All right fellas, now that I have a FZJ80 in my possession. I have decided to start a thread showing my attempt to bring this beast back to life. Unfortunately with having a LX470 to keep maintenance up on, and expensive taste in guitar's, I can't just dive in balls deep so I'm going to have to take baby steps. With that being said here is the order in which I want to tackle things to get her up and running. I will post pics as I make progress. In the meantime, if anyone has any advice or opinions to offer to help out, I'm all ears.

P.S. If you own a white/khaki colored 80 series L.C with a "Arizona Historic Plate." Thanks for passing the bug to me early last April in Sedona, AZ 😉

Here is my to do list:
- New hood struts so the hood will stay open
- Clean up and degrease the engine bay
- Engine coolant flush (Zerex Super Radiator Cleaner, distilled water, Zerex Asian Red 50/50 mix.)
- Replace radiator hoses, PHH & thermostat
- Rebuild the Power Steering Pump and all lines
- Oil Pump gasket, and Dizzy O-ring
- Oil Change (Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic Oil w/ Toyota or Mobl 1 filter.)
- New belts
- Water Pump
- Fan Clutch
- Spark plugs, Distributor, and wires
- Fix the rust spots on the back window, and all wiper arms
- Remove and clean carpet, replace foam padding
- Respray the frame with rust inhibitor
 
Here she is last Friday as we crusied around thru the country side.

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Make it run
Make it stop
Make it driveable
Make it safe
Make it pretty

In that order.
 
You forgot " Make the inside quit stinking "
I think that's part of the "Make it safe" as in reduce the black mold in it. I went through 4 cans of lemon Lysol on my carpets before I could be in it for more than 10 minutes at a time.
 
If you want to simplify things slightly, you can replace the hood struts with a rod to prop the hood up. The 80 was even designed for one, although it was factory on US vehicles. It's a direct bolt-in and there's a hole in the hood to accommodate it.

Where in Indiana art thou? I lived in Cincinnati for a couple of years- the "flatscape" in your pix looks familiar.
 
If you are doing oil pump seal you might as well replace front crank seal.
Do yourself a favour and flush the brake system also. Probably the most overlooked fluid change. While you are doing that inspect the flex hoses also. They are probably the original hoses, it’s nice when your rig can stop :doh:
 
If you want to simplify things slightly, you can replace the hood struts with a rod to prop the hood up. The 80 was even designed for one, although it was factory on US vehicles. It's a direct bolt-in and there's a hole in the hood to accommodate it.

Where in Indiana art thou? I lived in Cincinnati for a couple of years- the "flatscape" in your pix looks familiar.
I'm in Boone County, 25 miles NW of Indy.
 
If you are doing oil pump seal you might as well replace front crank seal.
Do yourself a favour and flush the brake system also. Probably the most overlooked fluid change. While you are doing that inspect the flex hoses also. They are probably the original hoses, it’s nice when your rig can stop :doh:
Right on, I appreciate it.
 
Had sometime after work today, so I took advantage of it and installed some new hood shocks. I went after market for the time being b/c they were readily available and $60 for the pair. Just an FYI to anyone who uses aftermarket ones. Make sure you buy the aftermarket ball studs as well. You will not be able to get the stock ball studs out of the stock shocks to re-use unless you cut them out. This weekend, I'll post some better pics of my engine bay, and the inside of the vehicle.

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This weekend I plan cleaning up the engine bay, and if time permits doing a coolant flush. I mentioned in my thread starter I am looking at using the Zerex Super Flush, and Zerex Asian Red 50/50 coolant. I briefly window shopped while grabbing my hood struts last night, Peak & Prestone make a Asian Red 50/50 coolant as well. Are any of you using any of these coolants I mentioned, is there any reason to prefer one over the other? Has anyone used the Super flush or is it just waste of money?
 
My rough observation is that most folks on mud are either using the stock toyota red or off-the-shelf standard green but I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions.

There are arguments for both but I decided that the green was for my truck because I had to flush it out anyway so could choose either. I also am still doing annual coolant changes to get my system well cleaned up after PO neglect and green is cheaper/easier to get for those. The best thing about using the green is that I can get the it anywhere should I ever need coolant while traveling.

My truck has no cooling issues on the green coolant. Importantly my fan clutch has been replaced/upgraded and the rest of the system as well which is what matters in terms of operating temps, not the coolant choice, as long as the coolant is fresh and in a clean system.
 
My rough observation is that most folks on mud are either using the stock toyota red or off-the-shelf standard green but I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions.

There are arguments for both but I decided that the green was for my truck because I had to flush it out anyway so could choose either. I also am still doing annual coolant changes to get my system well cleaned up after PO neglect and green is cheaper/easier to get for those. The best thing about using the green is that I can get the it anywhere should I ever need coolant while traveling.

My truck has no cooling issues on the green coolant. Importantly my fan clutch has been replaced/upgraded and the rest of the system as well which is what matters in terms of operating temps, not the coolant choice, as long as the coolant is fresh and in a clean system.
Yeah I feel you on the PO neglecting stuff. I have a whole lot of red tape to sort out with mine as far as service records go.
 
Well, it looks like I can add a few more "to do's" to my restoration. Saw on the tube this morning the local Toyota dealership advertising $70 full synthetic oil changes. Since I don't know what the PO had been dumping in the engine and the fact he told me he was mixing full synthetic & conventional oil, I called and scheduled an appt w/ my service advisor. When I told him what I scored and was bringing in, he hooked me up with a free point to point inspection. Even better was the fact that when they did the inspection he came and got me and took me underneath my 80. He pointed out to me what I already new as far as the power steering pump and the lines need fixed. Mentioned the cam seal, oil pump gasket, and the Dizzy. Then he plot twisted me with the gasket leak on the main oil pan, and a leak on the rear main.

I also dumped into my coolant overflow, some Prestone Radiator Flush & Cleaner today and plan to flush after 300 miles. While at the dealership I inquired about how much they sell Toyota Red coolant for, and was told after giving them my VIN# that my year Cruiser takes green coolant. They also told me, Toyota doesn't have a OEM green coolant anymore, and that any green coolant off the shelf willbe just fine???

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Run the green stuff, cheaper and more readily available.
 
Green coolant is fine as long as the system has been thoroughly flushed. However your dealer is telling you a bunch of lies as your vehicle came with Toyota red.
 
Green coolant is fine as long as the system has been thoroughly flushed. However your dealer is telling you a bunch of lies as your vehicle came with Toyota red.
Yeah, the guy in the parts dept told me "Toyota Red is OEM in the 100 series, but the 80 series takes green coolant."
 
They also told me, Toyota doesn't have a OEM green coolant anymore
I have never heard of or seen green coolant from Toyota.
I drove my brand new FJ80 off the Toyota dealer's lot in 1991 with Toyota red coolant in the system.
 
Let the plot twists play out for awhile. Once you fix up the oil leaks in front stop and you clean the motor up nicely then determine if you have main seal or pan leaks
 

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