Build My first 80 Series

[thetoyotaman]

This connector on the driver's side of the oil pan is being stubborn. I'm pretty sure I need to push on the tab and pull to remove, but the tab doesn't seem to move. I think it is packed with gunk.

Also, started separating the upper oil pan from the block. It's on their with grey RTV. Is that stock? Tough stuff to remove. I'm curious to see what's inside.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Tonite I put some big ol pliers on that plug and gently pressed and lo and behold the plug came off.

The oil pan has a lot of gray RTV on it, enough that I'm wondering if this engine has been opened up before. What are the original RTV colors to look for?

 

[sbman]

I believe the original sealant was grey. Toyota FIPG. I just ordered a tube for the rebuild on mine.

 

[thetoyotaman]

There's about a 1/16-1/8 inch bead extra on the outside and inside of pan which leads me to believe this may have been apart before. Usually OEMs don't waste that stuff. I'm learning there is a black, gray, and red FIPG maybe? The red is used on the transmission and transfer case. I'm wondering what the others are for.

 

[sbman]

The FSM says to use Toyota 08826−00080 which is black in color on both oil pans and the rear seal.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Thanks. Come to think of it I did find gray on the steel pan too. Not sure the best plan to remove the pan but I've been able to break the front half of the pan seal loose using a rubber mallet and engine gasket scraper but so far it's not really working on the back half.

 

[sbman]

Seems like factory was with black FIPG, at least according to the FSM so possibly someone has been in there before.

Have you had any luck locating a core for your rebuild effort?

 

[thetoyotaman]

Waiting till I get it apart and to the machine shop to see what the prognosis is.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Oil pan is off and no real surprises awaiting me. I was hoping to find part of the broken/melted rod jamming the crankshaft, but no such luck. A couple of pieces of bearing are left that are totally black. I pulled the crankshaft cap behind the bad one and found some severe bearing wear. The one in front of it is fine. The #1 piston rod cap is suspiciously clean and not varnished like everything else. I wonder if it became so hot it burned the varnish off? At this time the cap will not come off. I'm wondering if this is the seized part of not being able to turn the crank. Any suggestions for removing it?

 

[thetoyotaman]

Pics of the bearing.

 

[sbman]

Sounds like tha at least one connecting rod bearing spun and blocked off the oil supply, over heated and seized. I would think the crankshaft is not salvageable.

 

[thetoyotaman]

The #1 Piston bearing cap bearing is seized and this is what was preventing the crank from turning. I have it partially loose right now. Also noticed a drip of antifreeze coming down the #1 bore. I wonder what came first, the antifreeze or the seize.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Just curious, has anyone had experience with a !FZ-FE having this type of catastrophic failure?

 

[thetoyotaman]

I've been trying to figure out a way to free the rod and cap. One rod bolt popped out giving a little movement, but that's as far as I was able to get with it.

In the meantime, pulled off the TRD idler pulley, coolant and vacuum hoses on the SC, both manifolds and the oil cooler.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Talked to my machine shop today and he said if a crank overheats too much it will lose it's temper and would not be worth the risk of reuse along with rods. He'll have to inspect it of course, but that was a bummer to hear that today. The block will have to be magnafluxed too. Not sure this is headed anywhere good.

 

[sbman]

I don't think I'd want to re-use any of that bottom end, it seems like a used known running long block or at least short block would be the best and most cost effective path. Freshen it with new seals and if you really want to go for it, new bearings and rings, do a valve job and put it back in place. To save the existing motor you will have to regrind the crank at a minimum, and replace at least the rod that was impacted by the bearing/heat issue and probably have the rod sized, and then do all the rest of the rebuild. Unless you have the crank heat treated you'll never know for sure if it's right, and I'm not sure I'd trust any local shops to do a crankshaft heat treatment.

By the time you add up machine work, buy oil pan parts, etc... seems like you are adding up quickly to a used motor. There is also the possibility that they start working on your crank and it can't be saved, and end up needing to replace it anyways.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I'm thinking at a minimum new crank and the 2 rods that overheated.

It did make me curious if cryotreatment is an alternative at least theoretically to the heat treatment.

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm thinking at a minimum new crank and the 2 rods that overheated.

It did make me curious if cryotreatment is an alternative at least theoretically to the heat treatment.

It would make me very nervous about the rabbit hole you're going down. That was a pretty damn serious lock-up if it threw a rod AND seized the crank and one of the LOOSE rods looked like what you took off.

I would be MUCH more inclined to find an operating engine, tear it down and rebuild it, do ARP studs for the head and a Cometic gasket since you will be SC'ing. I think this will be less $$$$ in the long run.

Good Luck!

 

[sbman]

In your bearing pic, what is the bearing sitting on? There's a big crack in the metal underneath of it running vertically from the top of the bearing.

 

[thetoyotaman]

The bearing is sitting on the oil pan.

As far as the motor goes, I don't plan on taking any chances with any of it and will go with the advice of my machine shop. He said at this point, your job is to save the transmission. Then you can pull the head and see if it's salvageable and maybe the block itself.