Builds My first 80 Series (1 Viewer)

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Tonite, I started piddling away at it more. Removed the alternator and mount, power steering reservoir and pump, upper front water pipe, distributor and wires, upper plenum, EGR, some vacuum and other hoses, and unplugged most of the wiring harness. It's interesting how the power steering pump mounts in the block and that wiring harness is something else! It's going to be fun on reassembly!!!

Speaking of motors, will any 93-97 interchange and work with the Supercharger? I'm concerned about the OBD1 and II especially, but heard as long as I swap all my sensors and electronics it should be fine.
 
The speed sensor you referenced with that weird clamp repair looks like the CDL, just a heads up. The PO might have tried to waterproof it better like I did to mine (dielectric grease and lots of electrical tape). I was curious while I was reading your thread, why not swap a 4BT or vortec? Are you pretty set on trying to run the supercharger? At any rate, good luck with your restoration, I hope this thread proves useful for anyone else in the future as well.
 
Thanks. I thought it was the speed sensor. PO said speedometer quit working and his mechanic fixed it. I'll have to double check on that.

As far as an engine swap, that's not off the table. Reading other threads it appears those that have done the vortec swaps are very pleased and that's a common swap at TLC too. I also like the Toyota diesel swaps too like the 12H-T. I like the fact that it and the 1FZ-FE do not have a timing belt and the supercharger intrigues me as I haven't dealt with one of those before.
 
Today made a bit of progress. Supercharger removed. Intake manifold removed. Transmission removed!

I'm still stuck on how to get the torque converter off. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Was able to get it off with a short 12 point 14 mm socket for 5 of them and the last one was up towards the top where the cast on the block portrudes more. Was able to fenagle at 6 point wrench on it with the box end and then hammer it free followed by a gear wrench to finish it. Feels good to get this far.
 
Block and head dropped off at the machine shop. Best I can tell so far, the headgasket failed around the #1 cylinder. Excited to get this far!
 
Preliminary news from the machine shop is that the headgasket failed at #1, but no signs of overheating that led to this. He was surprised how good everything looks from what happened. They wont know for sure until they can clean everything and magnaflux but it sounds like good news.

Just curious what typical prices are for valve jobs and block boring and any other fees typically to expect for engine machine work that I should consider. Thanks.
 
Took the crankshaft to have it inspected. It is warped and lost it's heat temper on #1 and #2. Kind of cool to see how they check the temper and warpage. The shop said they can fix it, but no warrantee so I'm kind of at a stand still until I find a used crank or another option.
 
Just heard from the machine shop today. The good news is that the head is not cracked, the bad news is that it warped about .019. It would have to be heat straightened.

I'm wondering about a used engine at this time as opposed to dealing with this just yet or at all. I know 1FZ-FE's came in OBD 1 & 2. If I find an OBD1 motor can it be made OBD2 and what would I need to do? Thanks in advance for all the help!
 
I'm wondering about a used engine at this time as opposed to dealing with this just yet or at all. I know 1FZ-FE's came in OBD 1 & 2. If I find an OBD1 motor can it be made OBD2 and what would I need to do? Thanks in advance for all the help!

I haven't been able to find a reference to an OBD1 1FZ-FE. The parts seem to all be the same, even the cylinder head is the same part number from 1993-1997. If the computer varies from year to year as long as all the same sensors and the wiring harness is moved from your old engine to the new one, it seems like any 1FZ-FE long block should be a bolt in solution.
 
Thanks for looking at that. I heard the intake manifolds are different but I don't know the details on this.
 
In the mean time I've been collecting some parts. Picked up a set of heavy King coil springs, some Caster Correction Bushings, Temp gauge mod resistor, and a CDL switch. Thanks mikedamageinc for the bushings/diode and LCWannabe for the CDL switch! I Installed the CDL switch tonite which was a nice interlude with all the stuff going on with the motor.
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Talked to the machine shop and the block has been magnafluxed and it survived the thrown rod!!! Now just to secure a crank and rods.
 
Talked to the machine shop again this week. Oil pump bushing inspected and in good condition. He told me he still needs to check the line bore for where the crankshaft lies so maybe in a week or so will hear on that.
 
Started working on the paint this week and using a clay bar and trying different cleaning options I'm making some progress. I have no idea how long the paint was neglected. The tailgate believe it or not has been washed and nothing wants to take the staining off. So I tried an experiment that is working. Using some fine steel wool with detailer spray, it is removing the problem without any scratches left behind. Here's a comparison of the right side I started with. I'm real pleased with the results and wanted to pass it along.
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Machine shop called today and the line bore is near perfect. Sounds like it is one heck of a block to survive all of this! Some minor clean up and it's good to go!
 
Glad to hear all is good! I've been told the 1FZ is the 2jz big bad brother and can handle some serious s***....if this is true I'll be hard pressed to swap it with anything! Subb'd!
 
Received some rods in the mail yesterday. Thanks ginericlc! Dropped them off at the machine shop today. One step closer to collecting the parts I need. Trying to decide on pistons. Go stock or ITM, DNJ, or Safety seem to be about the other options short of something like JE. JE would be 8.5 to 1 compression.
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Started working on the paint this week and using a clay bar and trying different cleaning options I'm making some progress. I have no idea how long the paint was neglected. The tailgate believe it or not has been washed and nothing wants to take the staining off. So I tried an experiment that is working. Using some fine steel wool with detailer spray, it is removing the problem without any scratches left behind. Here's a comparison of the right side I started with. I'm real pleased with the results and wanted to pass it along.View attachment 1111857

I believe the white is a single stage enamel (no clear coat) so this would make sense. Any other color this probably wouldn't work or turn out well...
 

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