Builds My first 80 Series (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Collecting more parts for the Collectors Edition. 80 series snorkel hat, front u joints, hand throttle knobs and nut, drivers seat heater switch, some transfer case bearings, power steering pump mounting gasket, and some various exhaust bolts, nuts, & gasket.
IMG_0226.JPG
 
Picked up a silicone hose reducer for the precleaner, 83-89mm. It was the closest I could find. The precleaner measured 84.5 on one plane and 85mm on the other. The snorkel measured 89mm. A little stretch over the precleaner and it fit right over the snorkel.Found a stainless steel Size 56 clamp at Lowes to match the same size Safari one except that it is not black, so I will tuck it up inside the precleaner. A 5/16 wrench makes tightening the clamp inside the precleaner a breeze.
IMG_0295.JPG
IMG_0312.JPG
IMG_0328.JPG
 
Last edited:
Thanks for asking! The turtle build is going just as slow as ever and life hasn't settled down since November for me although I try to do something I can with the build here and there to keep forward progress even if it's procuring parts. The only thing left on the block is the oil galley plugs need to be pulled and the block washed out with new plugs installed. There is a minor issue of one oil pan bolt is also broken off in the block. I sourced a block heater that will be installed on rebuild. The crankshaft still needs to be finished: polished and cleaned out. The new pistons need to be assembled to the rods after they've been cleaned. I think everything else is done on the bottom end as I've had the entire rotating assembly balanced. Then there's the head...

With the weather here, I'm really wanting to get the block back in time to paint it in the heat of the summer. In the meantime, I've been redoing my garage for parts storage and workbench space. I've had to stop and do some much needed catch-up work on my Trooper too. Once that garage gets setup I want to tackle the power steering pump rebuild and the transfer case when I finish getting the parts.
 
More parts today for the Cruiser. Transfer case bearings, seals, speedometer gear, heated seat switch, screwdriver, & e-locker shims.
IMG_0349.JPG
 
So, the turtle build being on schedule with turtle speed, I decided it was time to drain the gas today. Easy job, but a little messy. 17mm socket needed. Look for the drain bolt nestled inside the large skid plate hole. There is a rubber gasket on the drain bolt. Page SF-36 of FSM does not show any torque spec and the gasket is NOT listed as a nonreuseable part like a couple of others. However, it does say replace gaskets. I was expecting to see a crush washer here. So, careful on tightening.

This build is going to start life out with fresh ethanol free gas if it's available when I first fire her up.
 
Here's a picture of the drain plug as well as how the gas had an amber color and should be clear. The trash in the bottom is from the dirt on the skid plate.
IMG_0707.JPG
IMG_0706.JPG


I wonder if it would be best to put some fresh ⛽️ in it or if it is ok to wait. Just curious if the gas residue will varnish or coat the components.
 
This week has been the first good weather of the year. After getting some much needed bench space and getting the Trooper worked on, I decided to start tearing down the power steering pump for a rebuild. I have it apart to the point of the inner plate behind the seal and the seal itself. i dont have a slide hammer, so is there another way to do this or is the slide hammer best?

fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild

IMG_0786.JPG
IMG_0787.JPG
IMG_0792.JPG
IMG_0793.JPG
IMG_0795.JPG
 
Today, I started back on the pump. I used a small punch from the back side of the seal and gently tapped it out by working my way around it. I tapped out the inner plate by gently using a brass drift. Then I used the puller to remove the bearing. It was a NSK 6203Z. It turned very smooth with just a little side play. Finally, with the help of some carb dip, simple green, lubricant spray, and brake cleaner I cleaned all of the parts.
IMG_0798.JPG
IMG_0796.JPG
IMG_0800.JPG
 
And...a little paint job. 3 coats of engine primer and 3 coats of engine paint. Both enamel following rattle can instructions.
IMG_0802.JPG
 
After thinking about whether to buy another bearing that was steel shielded (as I was unaware of this until I disassembled the pump), I decided to go ahead with the bearing and reassemble. Reading some mud threads on this, it doesn't appear to be an issue. So, using a shop press I installed the new bearing on the shaft, snap ring, and used a socket to tap it into the housing. Then, clean parts and using the above thread along with the FSM carefully reassemble. Inner plate, vane hub and vanes, outer plate with spring, and outer cover. I used Mobil hydraulic oil to coat the surfaces and orings as I plan to use this in the system. I noticed the old ones were brittle and cracked. It also fit back together tighter than it came apart requiring a little gentle tapping. The vanes are oriented with the rounded side out and it was easier to feel the orientation than see it. The inner plate has an oring on the inside and was tougher to start. Good practice to install all of the new orings on the clean parts prior to reassembly so you don't forget any. Last picture is finished product.
IMG_0803.JPG
IMG_0804.JPG
IMG_0864.JPG
 
Worked on installing the Gobi ladder with the ARB roof rack. The Gobi clamp at the bottom does not snug up all the way. Is this normal? I'm wondering about putting a spacer in to fill the gap.

I didn't have to slide the ARB rack that far forward to clear the ladder. I was pleased about that, but I do have an issue with a couple of the gutter mounts. It seems that they are so close to the door weatherstripping that it will tear it with time. The only way I can see to avoid this is to remove the rubber strip that goes under the clip. Anyone else experience this?
IMG_0863.JPG
 
New power steering pressure hose came in today. I decided to go aftermarket as I've had several Japanese pressure hoses start to leak and I've never had the aftermarket replacements leak. This probably won't get installed until I get the engine compartment clean from the mess of the failed one.View attachment 1336164
Have you installed the pressure hose yet? i am currently replacing my power steering pump and pressure hose. I found that the pressure hose was rather tight when screwing it in. Did you have this happen as well?
 
I just went out to the garage to check that for you and it fits perfectly and I can thread it by hand.
 
I just went out to the garage to check that for you and it fits perfectly and I can thread it by hand.
Thanks for checking, I can thread it by hand but halfway down it gets pretty tight. Even with a ratchet and crowfoot. I have tried multiple times and check to make sure it isn't being cross thread as well
 
Here's where mine bottomed out with just 2 threads left.
IMG_0865.JPG
 
Great thread! Thanks for posting all this info. My 16 yr. old son just acquired a '97 LC from his Grandpa. We will be following your project for ideas and helpful info.
 
Thanks! I try to give helpful links to follow and extra tips during each project.
 
A few years ago I sold an engine hoist to a friend along with the engine stand. I figured if I ever needed another set I would buy a foldable engine hoist and a larger stand. Well, the engine stand came earlier in the project. The purchase of the Bilstein and Bosal parts netted a rebate which covered the hoist so tonight's project was to assemble the new hoist.

IMG_3818.JPG
 
I stripped the plastic chrome off of the front emblem using 1/2 gallon of quality bleach and soaking for a little over a month changing it out weekly. This gave me a clean plastic surface to paint with black pearl, the correct color for the Collectors Edition. Use light coats as this doesn't apply as easy as auto spray paint cans with the fan nozzle. I may work on this a little more.
IMG_0866.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom