My Desmog Thread (2 Viewers)

[klinetime574]

One of the advancer fittings should go to ported vac on the carb base.
The other is not used. Cap it or dump to atmosphere.

Trapper might have connected his to manifold vac for constant hi-altitude advance.

Okay great. I can return some parts I bought! haha

I just thought of another question: The vacuum switch on the driver fender that also connects to the carb base, does that switch need to be grounded? i.e. a bracket on the fender

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the vac switch only has one wire to it. Grounding it to the fender completes the circuit.

 

[radwigg]

I know I'm hi-jacking a bit and for that I apologize, but how does the vacuum advance hook up to a Weber carb, or does it connect at all?

Brad

 

[klinetime574]

I know I'm hi-jacking a bit and for that I apologize, but how does the vacuum advance hook up to a Weber carb, or does it connect at all?

Brad

The Weber has a port at the base for the primary vac advance. There is also a barb on the adapter plate for PCV. That's pretty much it.

 

[radwigg]

Sweet. Much appreciated!

 

[2fj60]

So just wanted to put this out here, if you plan on using your old smog pump for a pulley you should put a grease nipple on the back, right where the old hoses coneckted there was two Phipps head screws, take them out drill and tap screw in nips and grease the thing well.
This will make your old pump now a pulley last a lot longer.

 

[mwgasman]

We recently bought an 83 fj60. A PO put on a weber (pretty sure a 38 dgev). It has an adapter that mates to the OE fj60 air cleaner assembly. It also uses the stock mechanical rod throttle linkage. It's probably a MAF kit. This was a non A/C cruiser.

The PCV/HIC/HAI circuit is intact on the stock air box.

A PO did a "desmog" by apparently unplugging vacuum hoses when they put the weber on. The smog pump was frozen but still in place when we got it. None of the smog components have been removed. I have desmog parts on the way.

The distributor is frozen. It has no mechanical advance and neither of the vacuum ports hold any vacuum. I'm going to put on a HEI distributor with vacuum advance. I can connect the weber gated vacuum port to the vacuum pot on the distributor.

I don't have access to a correct carb. The only wrecking yard within two hours of me that had a 60 wanted 150 for a carb that probably hasn't run in 10 years. I'm going to do this with the weber already on it. It actually runs pretty good considering all the vacuum leaks and the frozen distributor.

As far as I can tell after reading this thread, I don't need (can't use) any of the other smog stuff except the EVAP cannister. The PO left the EVAP system connected as factory but just unhooked the line going from the VCV to the carb. The bvsv is still in place and hooked up. How do I deal with the EVAP system so I don't suck the tank flat or expand it too much? I switched the EVAP and purge lines on the cannister but I don't have a correct gated vacuum source so I don't know if or how I should supply vacuum at all. How do I plumb this and deal with the ?solenoid? mounted to the cannister

 

[FJ40Jim]

Switching the tank & purge hoses on the canister (as you have already done) will take care of the tank inflation problem.

Remove the solenoid and cap it's large fitting on the canister. The canister will inhale/exhale through the bottom hose.

 

[jfnall]

So if the purge and tank hoses are flipped in the charcoal canister, the solenoid on top becomes a part that is not needed?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[FJ40Jim]

The carb breather solenoid is a useful part and should be retained. If running a foreign carb without a bowl breather hose, then the solenoid is unneeded.

 

[fjrocks]

I'm working on this stuff right now and I'm finding that some parts are missing or broken. I live at about 5300' and regularly travel between 4700' and about 7000'. Due to this I'm considering keeping the HAC. Any thoughts to the contrary? The problem is I don't find one anywhere on my rig. Is there anyone that has removed their HAC that would be willing to part with it? Jim, can you give me a current price on the dizzy recurve since it seems like that will be very necessary given my altitude.

 

[FJ40Jim]

If you need the HAC system, then keep it. The only reason it's recommended to discard the system is because the cheap plastic HAC valve is failure prone. Test all parts of the HAC before reinstalling.

Dissy clean & recurve = $129.

 

[fjrocks]

Sorry for my ignorance but how do I know if I need it? I'm really a novice on this side of things. I would prefer to run without it but I'd like to get the best performance possible.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

IIRC the HAC valve starts opening at 4000 feet and is fully open around 5000. If you start at 5k and just drive higher then the HAC won't really do much. Essentially the hac allows the carb to pull a little additional air through the hac port on the back of the carb. If you tune and jet your carb and run with that port going to filtered air then you will get the same (or better in the case of a malfunctioning hac) performance.

Jim, please correct me if any of what I have stated is incorrect. I know you know these systems at a much higher detail than I do.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Like Breck sez, the HAC is useful for a truck that is transiting through 4-5000' frequently.
If the truck lives above 4000' most of the time, then the HAC can be done manually by connecting carb HAC ports to a source of clean air.
If the truck lives below 4000', then the HAC carb ports can be capped off.

 

[2fj60]

Jim, im not running bvsv should I switch the two hoses on the charcoal cannister?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Switch the hoses if you're hearing the big 'whoosh' when unscrewing the gas cap.

 

[2fj60]

Thanks for your help and advice on de smoging, mine all started with manifold leaks and gummed up carb. Now the manifolds have fresh gaskets re built carb and totally de smoged, very happy with the results!

 

[2fj60]

So here is some pictures of my de smog, if anyone sees something out of place please let me know. Thanks.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Danger Will Robinson!

The dissy cap vent hose should be connected to the air cleaner lid, NOT the PCV hose.