My Desmog Thread (4 Viewers)

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7StringerFJ60 said:
Ah i see. All is well post 2400 rpm i assume the total advance is fine, i just want it to happen later correct? ...im assuming the springs are the solution to that.
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Assuming is bad. Measuring is better.

Oh! and i tried out hooking my primary advance to my HAC port and no change happened. (Honestly though, taking a look at the rest of my vac lines..they are ancient! ... and i really think i will complete your full desmog before messin around with dizzy springs)
Click to expand...
Yes, it's best to fix all the known problems before proceeding further down the troubleshooting path.
 
with a jim c . recurved dizzy which vacuum suppose to be plugged at sea level if not running with a HAC - if everything else is correct
 
The primary vac nearest the dissy gives 18-20* advance. The HAC fitting gives 6-7*. Try connecting vac to the primary fitting first. If the engine rattles at part throttle cruise, then switch down to tthe HAC fitting.
 
BVSV 1 is shown on the schematic as being used for evap system.
BVSV 2 is removed and plugged.

Do whatever you like with the unused dissy advance port. Leave open, cap, connect to aircleaner breather...
 
so i plugged mine with the kit -- is this ok - i also swapped the hoses for the charcoal canistor -- maybe this is why it takes a few turns to crank even hot - i wish you were close
 
why does 2 hex for bvsv come in the kit ?

i also swapped the hoses for the charcoal canistor -- maybe this is why it takes a few turns to crank even hot - i wish you were close
 
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I dont remember getting two plugs for the BVSV's in my kit? Did you get the air rail plugs as well and possibly just get an extra? In regards to which BVSV to use, the document that is in my sig (created by Jim) says to use BVSV1 and cap/plug the second, HOWEVER should BVSV1 be damaged you can still use BVSV2 and plug the first but the engine will run rough in the warmup phase.

On the hot crank what are you doing exactly? Mine will rarely fire right up when the engine is still hot (depends really). But if I remember correctly the proper, hot crank, procedure is to stuff your foot into the gas pedal and then crank. It should turn over once or twice and then fire right up. Depending on how long I have left my truck to sit (and usually if the carb fan has shut off) it may take a few cranks to fire or it may just start right up without any extra skinny pedal.
 
yes i got air rail plugs also along with 2 larger hex -

hasnt been running rough in the warmup - just when its first started for a second or two i pull the choke out a little and then i runs good --

hot crank sometimes well most of the time it takes 2 maybe 3,4 times to crank it up -- but runs fine i think -- i havent pushed my foot on the pedal to start when hot --

i guess i will be removing the hex -

also havent removed any computer emissions stuff not sure what needs to be done with that except maybe the white wire for the idle solenoid part --
(got any pics of this part since i have removed this portion along with the vacuum hoses ect.) so i can make it a eaiser fix --

i feel like im just getting crumbs dropped and maybe i will get to something better some day
 
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Where can I get plugs/caps for all the unused vac ports on the carb?
 
Any chain auto-parts place will have an assortment, but the cheap Chinese-rubber (vinyl) ones don't last very long. Look for Neoprene or Buna-N rubber.
 
Finished final plumbing on my first de-smog of my new to me 1987 FJ60. Wifey's effing Lexus is blocking the garage door, so I can't fire her up and commence tuning. I'll start her in the morning. Some issues I ran into:

1. stripped BVSV 2 taking it out an had to re-tap with 3/8" x 18 NPT tap, which of course I did not have, and so, I ordered from McM-Carr. Lucky for me they ship from near my town and I get orders in one or two days like magic. Installed Jim's plug, but had to make a gasket for the thermo housing and buy the thermo o-ring at the stealer. Another delay while they ordered it. In retrospect, I SHOULD HAVE LEFT IT IN AS A PERFECTLY GOOD PLUG. WHY DID I REMOVE IT LOL?

2. Stud backed out when removing EGR pipe from manifold. Elementary, dear Watson. Wasted one loud "****" and found a flange bolt to re-install with Jim's plate and the OEM gasket. That muther is in there now. It has a 13mm bolt and a 12mm nut but hey, I'm weird like that, whatever.

3. Can't find a bolt nor anything handy to plug the AI pipe from the exhaust. I know there is a check valve but I will sleep better when it is plugged. Need a fat lug nut or sumpin'...

4. PO had had some monkeys work on the truck as I found no gasket on intake EGR pipe flange whatsoever, and huge air leaks in 3 places, plus the EGR gasket was burned in half and very leaky. All that is gone, replaced with the MAF plate and vacuum hookup for PCV/HIC operation.

Cant wait to fire her up in the AM later. Thaks to all contributors and Jim C especially.
 
#3 - i cut off a piece of old breaker bar steel that broke fit perfect - harbor freight has them cheap if you cant find anything else
 
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