My Continuous SMOG and Emissions Problems

[sacfj60]

Once again, you are really close to passing. You might consider a full carb rebuild if it hasn’t been done in a long time. Having a functioning air injection system is important too.
It is this kind of annoying smog testing experience that made me sell my 76 FJ40. I just got tired of dealing with it every two years, which is what the smog Nazis want.

I couldn't agree more! So sick of it hanging over my head and the idea of having to sell it just because of smog is not cool. It runs great and I am spending money repairing things that don't need it. Thanks for The carb advice. Never been rebuilt as far as I know

 

[Spike Strip]

Kalifornia love it or leave it (I choose the latter).

 

[sacfj60]

Kalifornia love it or leave it (I choose the latter).

I will never leave that's for sure. Not many states I would care to live in and home is home. But this smog thing is a legit gripe so i get it

 

[Spike Strip]

If, as Pin sez, you don't think the carb has ever been rebuilt, it's certainly in need. You're running rich, so a tune and adj and perhaps a valve adj might get you to squeeze by, but the carb still needs rebuild if it's really 35 years on crummy Kalif gas and newer RFG.

 

[Pin_Head]

CA special blend of RFG is hard on carbs. If the power valve is stuck open, it will run rich.

 

[sacfj60]

CA special blend of RFG is hard on carbs. If the power valve is stuck open, it will run rich.

I am hoping that's the issue and the problem is limited to that. Not sure yet what a carb rebuild will cost so that is next on the list.

 

[Spike Strip]

Pin_Head has a series of terrific very-thorough videos on Aisan carb rebuild posted here and on Youtube. Might be something you could try yourself.

 

[sacfj60]

Pin_Head has a series of terrific very-thorough videos on Aisan carb rebuild posted here and on Youtube. Might be something you could try yourself.

I will check them out, thanks! Not sure of my skills in that department however

 

[sacfj60]

Ok ,got the carb rebuilt. Wish I had done it years ago. That being said, I haven't gone for the smog test yet. I did notice that after the rebuild my acceleration is not so smooth, it kind of stutters off and on, especially in first and second.. the upside is I have a lot more power going from 60 to 75mph which I never had before. any ideas on the lowest issue?

 

[OSS]

Light throttle acceleration in 1 & 2 can hesitate a little when the EGR valve opens. Good for a smog test. To rule out if it's the EGR, unplug its vacuum hose for a short test drive & compare. Also try less gentle acceleration when it's hooked up.
Return the vac hose back to the EGR valve after testing. The engine will ping under certain conditions with it off.

 

[sacfj60]

Light throttle acceleration in 1 & 2 can hesitate a little when the EGR valve opens. Good for a smog test. To rule out if it's the EGR, unplug its vacuum hose for a short test drive & compare. Also try less gentle acceleration when it's hooked up.
Return the vac hose back to the EGR valve after testing. The engine will ping under certain conditions with it off.
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that is some excellent advice. Will follow up

 

[Pin_Head]

Bogging down off idle or at low throttle transitions is often due to lack of fuel at the transition slot, This is either due to a clogged / blocked idle fuel circuit or a vacuum leak. Is there fuel dribbling out of the primary main nozzle at idle. This is a sign of a vacuum leak or lack or idle fuel.

 

[sacfj60]

Bogging down off idle or at low throttle transitions is often due to lack of fuel at the transition slot, This is either due to a clogged / blocked idle fuel circuit or a vacuum leak. Is there fuel dribbling out of the primary main nozzle at idle. This is a sign of a vacuum leak or lack or idle fuel.

Will look into that tomorrow. Seems to run better as it warms up but still not as smooth as before.

 

[sacfj60]

Will look into that tomorrow. Seems to run better as it warms up but still not as smooth as before.

Hey ho! Just drove it with the hose off and it ran perfect. So, I am facing smog tomorrow with a rebuilt carb. What is the deal with these valve? Do I unhook after the test of do I adjust something to make it drive the same while hooked up? The carb is set lean at the moment. I plan to heat it up and go for broke.

 

[OSS]

The old EGR valves don't work as well as they did when they were new. They open up too soon. Maybe the spring gets weak. They can't be fixed and there's no new replacement option.

The best workaround is to get the distributor re-curved for non EGR use by JimC and run the engine without EGR between tests. Every two years at test time, just hook the valve vacuum hose back up. It will still pass smog with a recurved distributor. Mine did.

 

[sacfj60]

The old EGR valves don't work as well as they did when they were new. They open up too soon. Maybe the spring gets weak. They can't be fixed and there's no new replacement option.

The best workaround is to get the distributor re-curved for non EGR use by JimC and run the engine without EGR between tests. Every two years at test time, just hook the valve vacuum hose back up. It will still pass smog with a recurved distributor. Mine did.

Cool. Good to know. It has to be hooked up up for smog, correct? Not sure what recurving is but I will take your word for it. Will ask jimc about my options on that front. I really hope I pass tomorrow. Expired tags are sad

 

[Pin_Head]

The EGR valves on FJ60s tend to stick open. If you can’t get a new one, you can clean the bottom metal part of the valve with carb dip and then lube up the actuator rod with teflon motorcycle cable lube.

 

[sacfj60]

To everyone that helped with some damn good advice, many thanks. Carb rebuild and all is well. Got some good numbers!

 

[sacfj60]

three years later and here I am again. christ. technician told me my timing is at 12 and should be 7 as well. wondering what the high HC numbers mean. the picture above is my last test. any thoughts? recommendations. this is my 10th smog check on the beast and it is always a different source of failure.

 

[OSS]

Did you give it a tune up before the test?
Drive it on the freeway for 20 minutes right before the test?
High HC is high hydrocarbons. There’s unburned fuel ending up in the exhaust pipe. Engine is running too rich.
Just a dirty air cleaner filter can cause high HC because engine isn’t getting enough air (as an example).
Also it’s always a good strategy to change the engine oil before a smog test. Old oil has crap in it that can end up in the exhaust due to blow-by.
Advanced timing will screw you during a smog test. The usual cheat is to retard it a couple degrees below 7° to improve numbers on the sniffer test.