Builds My build thread - Rapido XL.....

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Markuson said:
Curious what you consider full proper.
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It's all about "work hardening." Basically, if you heat your gears up to a certain point, it changes the molecular properties of the metal to be either soft (wear quicker) or brittle (easier to shear). Heat treating helps, I go a step further by cryogenically freezing my gears and bearings, yet it still doesn't help with the initial beak in. Personally, after install, I drive incredibly easy for 15 miles and park the truck to cool over night (put your hand on a diff with a new gear set, the heat produced is incredible). I do that 3x over. Then for the next 455 miles, I don't driver over 60mph, easy throttle, and not more than 25 miles. ALWAYS keep adjusting speed, city driving is really the best, you're trying to mesh the gears together, without heating too much. Another way of looking at it is, long highway constant speeds are the absolutely worst thing you could do in the first 500 miles. Once I'm at 500 miles, I do 3x 15 mile hard highway runs, cool overnight between each, then change the oil. I usually tell a story about why I do things, but it would be kinda long on this one, so I guess building over 50 completely one off vehicles, and a couple hundred modified ones, I saw a trend in failures vs longevity, and it brought me to this believe on the subject.

But here is an article from randy's ring and pinion I like.

New Gear Break-In
NewGear.gif
Do we really need to break in a new gear set? I have heard many people say "When I bought my new truck, no one ever told me to break in the ring & pinion." Whenever we are blessed enough to afford a new vehicle, we take it easy on the engine for the first few hundred miles. While we are pampering the engine (probably for the last time ever), the ring & pinion set goes along for the ride and gets a chance to break in before we hammer the throttle.
In most stock vehicles with stock tires there is seldom a risk of a burned gear set. For those of us who modify and use our trucks, there many situations that can contribute to burned gear syndrome. Motorhomes, towing, tall tires, and high numeric gear ratios (4.56 & up) can all generate a lot of heat and cause the gear oil to break down. The greatest damage to a new gear set results from running for ten minutes or more during the first 500 miles when the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading while the oil is extremely hot will cause it to break down and allow irreversible damage to the ring & pinion.

In order to make them run cooler and quieter, new gears are lapped at the factory. However, they are not lapped under the same pressures that driving creates. The loads generated while driving force any microscopic high spots on the gear teeth back into the surface of the metal. This is called "work hardening". Work hardening is similar to forging in the way that it compresses the metal molecules into a very compact and hard formation. This can only be accomplished if the metal surfaces are lubricated and the gear temperature stays cool enough that the molecular structure does not change. If the temperature of the metal gets hot enough to change the molecular structure, it will soften the surface instead of hardening it. This may seen like a balancing act, but it all happens easily and passively as long as the oil keeps the gear cool while it is breaking in. Some of the synthetic oils on the market today can help a gear set live longer. I've had great success with Red Line ®, Torco ®, and Richmond Gear ® synthetic gear oils. These oils will continue to lubricate at temperatures where many crude oils break down.

Even with synthetic oils, I still recommend the following procedure for breaking in a new gear set: After driving the first 15 to 20 miles, stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Keep the vehicle at speeds below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. I also recommend putting at least 500 miles on the new gear set before heavy use or towing. During the first 45 miles of towing, it helps to go about 15 miles at a time before stopping to let the differential cool for 15 minutes before continuing. This is necessary because not all of the gear tooth is making contact until it is heavily loaded. When towing, the teeth flex to contact completely, and cause the previously unloaded portion of the teeth to touch and work harden. It is very easy to damage the ring & pinion by overloading before the teeth are broken-in. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and keep it full of high quality oil, it will last a lot longer.

With regards to limited slip additives, I have found that using too much additive can lead to premature gear wear. Use just enough to keep the limited slip from chattering but not more than 4 oz for every 2 qts of oil. It is a good idea to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles in order to remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set. This is cheap insurance and a good time to discover any problems before they grow too big.
 
Wow!

That was an interesting read.

Thank you, Taco!
 
Taco - "wont you be my neighbor"
 
you all kill me ! but yes, learned the hard way on gears with my 80...... luckily it was just the rear end that went .... so will plan to use her lightly for a few weeks......

but much appreciate the extra insight and article.

E
 
knocked out just a few things this weekend:

  • Attic from Blue Ridge
  • Mole panel for the 2nd row seat back from Blue Ridge - really nicely done
  • Hoping to get the starter button upgraded to the TRD one - I know it's at least 15hp......thanks @beno - he's got the lead on these for anyone interested...... the ebay ones i found were frauds.
  • switched to the LEDS in the rear of the truck - leaving the fronts as is for now and still need to do the doors...
  • ground the rest of the offending fender liners in the front - all good now except for the scuff on the UCA at full turn.
  • wired up the rear and side lights but waiting on a waterproof connector to finalize.... hoping Monday.
  • washed and waxed her..... 2 coats of Zymol and she feels like silk.

Iphone 3.26.17 019.JPG


Iphone 3.26.17 021.JPG


Iphone 3.26.17 040.JPG
 
Since you just put them in, how much can the second row seats recline with the drawers there? Or how many clicks can they recline?

I like the attic, been thinking about it for a while, I just grew up with the "don't ever touch a headliner!, they aren't designed to be touched!" So I've got to come to terms with that in my own mind.
 
the seats go all the way backwithout hitting - when in full recline they hold the Molle panel nicely

I'm in exactly the same court on the headliner - my dad beat me within an inch of my life once for playing tic tac toe on the roof of his old merc... but this is a really nice option for blankets or light stuff that I need to run to the boat that I don't want the 110lb german shepard making his dog bed....

E
 
E,
post pics of the rack lighting wiring (routing) when you get it done. I'm playing with a couple different options. just curious what others are doing to get the wiring inside the truck. did you go down the A pillar or sneak the wires in through the rear hatch?
That blue ridge equipment looks great.
 
I'm running the Baja's wiring down the passneger a pillar and into the hood compartment currently - it works well, and there's room for the needed extra 3 wires. Thinking I'll end up using some 5200 to ensure it stays in the crease in the windshield.

I'll get some pics this weekend once I get it done - she goes to the shop in am for the gears and lockers finally....

E
 
RS6tofj80 said:
I added some Kawell flood lights to the side of the Prinsu Rack - their 18 watt, priced right and fairly flush, and Cheap ! And then added 3 sets of Baja Design S2's to the rear of the rig - not cheap...... 2 sets of floods - one straigh back and a set at 30 degrees - and one set of their new S2 Racer spots..... they're crazy bright for their size !
Waiting for a few parts to tackle the wiring .....

truck finally goes in tomorrow to get the gears and lockers done..... had ot move that back due to travel - can't wait to see how it comes out.

View attachment 1414457
Click to expand...

Where did you find these lights? Do you have a link?
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FINALLY - picking her up from the shop today ...... 4:88's, ARB lockers, new winch (vr12000) and they've added the 30mm rear packing spacers and dialed up the front Coilovers and realigned her...... going to be a long weekend going thru the gear break in process but got lots of wiring to finalize while she's cooling down as I cycle the gears.
 
well....... maybe not..... they're saying they need to mill a small section of the housing to fit the ARB ......hmmmm

thoughts from those who've installed gears and lockers ?

E
 
RS6tofj80 said:
well....... maybe not..... they're saying they need to mill a small section of the housing to fit the ARB ......hmmmm

thoughts from those who've installed gears and lockers ?

E
Click to expand...
Umm... what!? Which diff, front or rear, regardless, no milling is required for either other then drilling the bulkhead fitting for the airline. But that doesn't sound like what they want to do. Let me know.
 
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