My 84 BJ60, the Nipperwagon. SOA, 35''s, Locked.

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Right on Spence, did you get the diff thing sorted out? Where abouts did you get your hysteer setup? trailgear?

I got the kit from Iron Pig Offroad. Basically it's Trail Gear arms, Iron Pig .250 DOM tie rods and pitman arm, and Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser tie rod ends.

I can't believe how nice the thing drives now, it's so tight. Before I could wiggle the steering wheel back and forth with the truck off and nothing would happen, now if I wiggle the wheel back and forth even so slightly the whole truck rocks with it. I knew I had play in the tie rod at the pitman arm, but I didn't know how much of a difference it made till now
 
My dad built these boxes for me for Christmas, I figured I would show them off.:D Between these three boxes I have more storage room than I need, I've got enough space to carry all my supplies, tools, parts (axles, u-joints, alternators, rad hoses, etc.)

If anyone wants the dimensions I could probably grab the measurements. I'm quite pleased with how well they well they all fit.

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No, the boxes are not bolted in. With the one box between the two of them, they dont move around. I do however plan to bolt them in before spring so they dont risk taking out a window once wheeling season is in full swing.

I found this on my phone, I enjoyed it and forgot all about the video all along. It was from a local clubs Newbie Runs. The grinding you hear is the fan hitting the shroud, is is quite common for the engine mounts of BJ's to be soft, and when I torque at that grade of steepness the engine tips back.


YouTube - BJ60 Toyota Land Cruiser crawls from a pit

So I'm under my truck this weekend replacing the driveshaft and U-joints, and I'm looking at how hideous my exhaust is from the the engine to the muffler. It has been patched god knows how many times, full of odd weird bends that seem unnecessary, and being 2inch it's kinda small. I have a builder kit for the Corolla, I need to make another order for exhaust in the next few weeks so I figured I would do the exhaust on the Cruiser. It's 3 inch mandrel tubing from the header, and then will be 4 inch after the Flowmaster 40.

BJ60's are silly, you are forced to route the exhaust through the leaf and to the outside of the frame, if you want to route it back through you risk high centering the truck on the piping one day.

Isn't this discusting:
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I know, this piece of the exhaust looks hacked, but it's not. I could not find a 2-3inch reducer anywhere, so I had to use two. Also, I had to weld them each at odd angles because there seems to be something on the side of the block (I honestly never even cared to look what it was for, it was just in the way, maybe alternator related, I don't know, it's between the block and exhaust).

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This is the pipe that runs down the outside of the frame. I'm going to route it back inside right in front of the rear leaf spring shackle/hanger, this way there is almost no way for me to high center on the piping.

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I'll update this again in the next couple days when I finish the exhaust. God damn is a 3B diesel loud straight piped, I had to deliver pizzas for 5 hours tonight with it, I was close to getting pulled over once.
 
Oh yea, I hear Florida gets some pretty rusty cars.:p It's odd, sometimes the salt air will cause rust in the oddest places down there.

I had to modify the downpipe a bit, at full lock with the suspension flexing I was getting some pretty good rubbing on the exhaust. I moved it in 2.5 inches, added some proper hangers, and finished all the way to the muffler. All that is left now is the piping from the muffler out the side where it was originally but 4 inch. I'm loving the 3 inch, driving beside vehicles all you hear is "whoomp whoomp whommp" resonance, its even deeper and mean. I'm still sitting at 1250 degrees doing 110km/h though, it didn't make much of a difference.

I'll get more pics tonight.
 
I bought the exhaust builder kit from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. Prices are super cheap, and shipping is crazy fast. I think I had it in under 5 days to my door for under $150 all in. Here is the link to the builder kit I bought, and I've still got a couple bends left over.

3.00" OD, 4.00" Radius, 16 Gauge Mild Steel Ultimate Builder Kit Columbia River Mandrel Bending

I have to let the air out of my rear tires until they are almost flat to get the truck in the garage, even then the roof rack still feathers the garage door. I'm in the middle of designing a roof rack for it for this summer, something that the sides fold down on to become flat, because the truck can't be one more inch higher or it's not going to fit in the garage.
 
Look at how rusty those rockers are. Holy s***. :crybaby:
 
I bought the exhaust builder kit from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. Prices are super cheap, and shipping is crazy fast. I think I had it in under 5 days to my door for under $150 all in. Here is the link to the builder kit I bought, and I've still got a couple bends left over.

3.00" OD, 4.00" Radius, 16 Gauge Mild Steel Ultimate Builder Kit Columbia River Mandrel Bending

I have to let the air out of my rear tires until they are almost flat to get the truck in the garage, even then the roof rack still feathers the garage door. I'm in the middle of designing a roof rack for it for this summer, something that the sides fold down on to become flat, because the truck can't be one more inch higher or it's not going to fit in the garage.

YES!! I'm going to add that to my frame swap list. Thank you!
 
KingSpence,

Where did you get that pre-cut strip to repair the wheel well lip?
 
KingSpence,

Where did you get that pre-cut strip to repair the wheel well lip?

I bought it at Canadian Tire. It's called Flex-a-Arch, basically just a piece of sheet metal bent at 90 degrees, with slits cut in it so you can flex it around arches. I would assume any body work supply shop would stock the stuff.
 
Got more done on the exhaust. I had to relocate the e-brake cable as it was in the way of where the muffler would be sitting.

Also, you might ask why I took the exhaust all the way to the rear before crossing under the frame? It's for two reasons, if I were to high center the piping would be somewhat protected by the leaf shackle, and two, if I am high centered the rear tire should have caught what I was high centered on and will start to lift the truck up and over thus clearing the piping. Know what I mean?

It is super slushy and wet here in Alberta right now, so the photos show a slush/salt covered exhaust system. I've been driving the truck around all week and I'm loving the new sound. It's not too loud and sounds somewhat close to before, but the major difference is the deep resonance and a bit louder note.

This is the relocated e-brake cable. You can see the original location to the left of it. Welding upside down sucks! Also, it was weird, when I was welding upside down there was a few times it was almost like the mig wire was melting/combusting/hissing before it was hitting the surface. I turned the wire speed up but it still didn't help much. I'm using welding gas not flux core. It's odd, it's never happened before.
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This is the bend I have routing under the frame, then high enough to clear the driveshaft.
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Here is the muffler mounted in the new location. I've got about 1/2 inch from the top of the muffler to the crossbar on the frame above it, it's as high as I could place the muffler taking into consideration pipe flex from engine movement; I don't want it hitting the frame/floorboard, which it doesn't.
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Here is a side shot. The tip is going to come out in the same spot as before, but this time it will be 4 inch and not 3 1/2. It's placed perfectly, I should be able to work with a pretty straight piece with a 2 inch vertical drop, with some slight angle towards the rear like my old exhaust keeping the tip from being 90 degrees to the body.
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Here is a shot from the rear. You can see I positioned the muffler perfectly so that if the driveshaft were to come up that far (which it never will) I can gain some clearance by having the muffler out of the way of the driveshaft. The photo makes it look like I don't have much room vertically between the driveshaft and piping, but in actuallity I have more than enough.
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And this is a shot of the downpipe that I shortened towards the frame by 2.5inches.
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Finished the exhaust! I love it even more than the last, it flows much better, and the tone is unbeatable, deep and throaty. It doesn't sound anything like a 4cyl n/a diesel. Also, with the exhaust as it sits, all I need to do when I turbo is fabricate the turbo elbow into the exhaust. Oh, and remove the muffler; straightpipe turbo diesel is sex.

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This will not get ripped off. I had my 3.5 inch side exit in the same spot, and even when I was high centered it didn't come close to rubbing ground. By the time the mount of dirt you are high centered on gets close to the pipe, the rear tire has already started lifting the truck up and over whatever I was high centered on.

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You can see the muffler is at the highest point possible, it will never hit anything when I'm offroad. It's higher than the frame, and enough to the driver side to clear the driveshaft if it did ever get up that high when flexing.

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This is the front passenger tire at almost full compression, with the tire at full lock to the right. I have about an inch clearance between the lugs and the exhaust, it really couldn't fit any better!

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I like the exhaust, super manly

Nice corolla, my bro has a 240sx with a CA18DET, currently in the garage, he didn't have time to finish the wiring.
 
I started a build on another forum as well (Dorikaze.net), I'm going to go though and document some of my 2010 escapades with this truck.

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Let's backtrack a bit to May Long weekend. We went to Cadomin, AB and ended up in Brule Lake, AB by the end of the weekend. It was the first time I had been camping without a trailer and a toilet, and I had the time of my life!

Our first day of wheeling was crazy, it snowed all night and we woke up to about 3 inches of snow, and about 6-10 inches at different places up at the higher altitudes. On the way out I ended up hitting a couple bumps going slow, but at the perfect speed to get a horrible rhythm. I had the whole truck full of gear, and the truck suspension compressed and the truck caught close to a foot of air. When we got back to camp I was wondering why my truck was leaning, I broke the main leaf on the passenger rear leaf pack. Breaking a main leaf in the bush 450km/h from home is not cool.

We ended up heading to Hinton, AB the next day to find parts to fix my leaf issue. My truck stayed in Cadomin, and we made the 100km trek to Hinton in the other vehicles. We ended up finding some boat trailer wheels, the brackets had holes and by using some bolts I was able to afro-engineer a clamping device to keep the leafs from sliding out from each other to at least get me home.

On the way out of Hinton we decided to check out Brule Lake, the dirt road that leads to the trails is in horrible shape, yet people still tow $40,000 trailers down it all the time. As we were getting close buddy in his Jeep was going a little fast, hit a good bump and the center pin on the leaf pack gave way (it had been slowing wearing away for the past while but finally broke), and his axle slide almost 5 inches back on the leaf pack.

So we have a broken Land Cruiser in Cadomin 100kms away, and a broken Jeep in Brule. ****.

We took another vehicle back to Cadomin as they set up camp in Brule, we had to stay the night and wait till Sunday to find parts, and to top it off no body is open long weekends. We went to Cadomin, fixed the Cruiser and came back to Brule. The next day we got a bolt to use in the leaf pack and fixed his Jeep, wheeled the day in Brule and headed home the next. It was a ****show to remember, and was one hell of a time! My camera broke that weekend, so there are minimal pictures.

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And that was May Long 2010. 2011 is going to gnar.
 

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