My 65 FJ40 get it running and see what happens. Work in progress thread (1 Viewer)

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SO I have a bad motor! details and pictures can be found at the links below.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/787983-engine-trouble-help-pulled-head-today.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/788281-2f-worth.html

I was thinking of swapping in a 350 or a 2F and settled on the 2F So I bought a 84 FJ60 complete running donor rig for just 800 bucks! I will use the power steering system the engine the 4 speed trans and I think the split case TC Wish me Luck I will post pics of my progress
 
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I pulled my trans and transfer case out tonight.
And got the motor all ready to pull out. I guess it's time to buy a engine hoist and stand.
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You are a fast worker! I hope the swap goes well and the TC works in 2hi soon.
 
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I got the stock steering box, steering column, and center arm off. And cut off the box mount and prepped the frame for the new 60 box.
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I have been work on my steering. I first cut the shock tower like I have seen in other builds. The box cleared but the u joint on the steering shaft would not. Also once it was all cut away it looked weak. So I decided to just take the stock shock towers off and switch over to ford F250 shock towers. Got them ordered. That will do a few things for me. First I can move the gear box a little more towards the firewall. I do not want to have to cut onto my bib like I have seen others do. And give me plenty of clearance for my steering shaft. The cool thing is I don't really have to buy anything. As far as the steering shafts go. I used the shaft from the box to the steering column out of the fj60 parts rig I bought. And I disassembled the donor rigs steering column. Took out the shaft that went from the tilt U joint to the firewall. I will cut that shaft just after the u joint and weld it to my existing steering column shaft I cut off my manual steering gear box. I just have to buy a column bushing from Kurt. I will fab up a plate to mount my column to my firewall.
Then figure out the steering arms. I thinking between the two rigs I can cut splice and weld me a good shaft together.
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I got the Column bushing from cruiser outfitters today and started work on my steering shaft. I also fabed up a plate to mount my steering column. Made it out of 1/4" plate. It's a little overkill but that's what I had laying around. I welded the u-joint on to my shaft and it works very nice! I dig how it Looks like it belongs there. Not a bunch of s*** welded together like it really is. Once it's all painted up it will look factory-ish
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So this week I thought I would take the head off the 2f I got from the 60. And check things out. I ended up doing this.

My 8 year old son helped me and stayed interested the whole time. Warms my heart. Good father son time.

The crank look amazingly good. I measured it and it is std size and with in spec. I plastagaiged the bearings and they where all at the close side to max wear. So I will replace them.

I bought a bore gauge (I like tools) and checked each cylinder and they are all with in spec.
The pistons look good and are with in spec. I will hone the block and replace the rings with std size ones.

I cleaned up the block surface and checked it with a straight edge. It is good.

I took the oil pump apart and checked tolerances. It is all in spec.

I took the head to the machine shop to check it out. They checked it for cracks none found. They had to deck it .028 to make it flat. (Curious how much that's going to change my compression???)

They said the seats and guides are good but said it needs a valve job. So they are doing that now.

The camshaft is bad and will need to be replaced or reground. Probably reground. The intake lobe on cyl 5 is noticeably smaller than the rest. (See pic) a few others look more worn than the rest.

I called delta cams and told them I wanted a cam that would give me the most low end torque. And still be very drivable and not require changing valve springs ect. They asked what elevation I lived at. I said 4500 ft and often go higher. They recommended a 250s grind. Said it would be the best for what I want to do and give me proper vacuum. Any thoughts?? Once I decide exactly what I want to do. I will send the lifters in with the cam to get reground as well.

I stripped the threads on my harmonic balancer puller trying to pull off the cam gear. I will have to take it to the shop and have them press it off for me.

On a side note. When I pulled off the harmonic balancer there was no oil slinger like I had on my f motor?? Is this right or did some one forget to put it back in?
Also the crank nut did not have a lock ring on it?!?! It is supposed to right?
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Checked all my bearing clearances with plastagauge. Checked thrust clearance, Checked ring end gap, piston to ring side clearance. Ect ect ect. I'm really impressed with this motor. It had 159,000 miles on it when I took it apart. Still has stock bore and std size bearings. I did not have to turn the crank or bore it out it all was in speck and looked good. I have rebuilt SBC and SBF with half that many miles that where worse. Toyotas at just bad ass. The head did need a valve job and had to be decked. And the cam was very worn. But that could have been from a too tight valve adjustment by one of the po's I guess. Anyway Time to start assembling
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