My 2H is trashed

[RufusTheDufus]

The timer stayed in my H. I don't have the 2H FSM. Maybe it's different and the timer comes with it. On the H there are 4 bolts/nuts that you remove and the pump slides right out, no special tools required. There might be a bolt that holds the pump to a bracket and the block that's not obvious.

 

[vwluv10338]

The timer stayed in my H. I don't have the 2H FSM. Maybe it's different and the timer comes with it. On the H there are 4 bolts/nuts that you remove and the pump slides right out, no special tools required. There might be a bolt that holds the pump to a bracket and the block that's not obvious.

I got the pump out the back. It came out with the timer. There is a large o-ring that seals it to the front cover.

Now I am stuck at the crank gear. My puller is at work. Tomorrow I might be able to make it out to Harbor Freight to pick up a cheap kit. I use the $9.99 kit there at work and it works great.

 

[vwluv10338]

For the love of God I finally got it. Three nights of messing with the crank gear and I finally got it. I am more familiar with these when they drive timing belts but the concept is the same. My 6x1.0 bolts were not long enough so I bought the longest ones I could find, 6x1.0x80. They were just long enough but I would like more. I also bought 100mm long all thread but I ended up stretching those.
Well after a lot of propane torch on the gear and brake clean on the crank to cool it I finally got it off. I cant explain how much torque and sweat I have put into this.

 

[vwluv10338]

It looks like I am going to have to replace the oil pump drive splines. They are pretty worn but its hard to see in these pics.

 

[vwluv10338]

Progress:

I got everything torn down. I didnt take any pics but I plastiguaged the a few rods and main caps and all is good. .003".

Once everything was out I realized how thin the liners actually are.

SO LETS GET THEM OUT!! I'm trying to save myself $600 in machine shop fees. I decided to try it like a wheel bearing and score and crack them. I used a rotary saw but I have a few ideas of how to do it better next time. I actually got fairly good at it by the 3rd cylinder. I was able to pop the last few out in just a couple of minutes. Hopefully with some dry ice I can get them in. Worst case I guess is I will have to take the block to work and use the press.

I started cleaning up the rest of my parts. I bought a soda blaster. It seemed usefull but its not as abrasive as I thought. I thought I would get more of a glass-bead finish. I do like the ease of cleaning though. I have used sand and aluminum oxide and both are messy.

Before:

After:

 

[VTCDN]

Cam journal looks fine, emery super fine the areas, should be just fine.
Trick is how to keep the ice in it while pulling in the liner , Upside down block , pulling the liners up while the cyl bottom is a 17mm aluminum seal and pull disc .. Theres my brain fart .

This is what your trying ?

Large redi-rod and pull the liners in using the oil pan deck to the top of the liner ? Got Air and & gun ? fill the liner with dry ice and water ..

VT

 

[lostmarbles]

Wow. This is really interesting DIY engine overhaul!

Make sure you compare the OD of the new and old liners before you attempt to insert the new ones.

Also you'll need to take other measurements so you can work out the protrusion you'll end up with when each liner is knocked home.

And I'd be tempted to turn up something to fit the top of the liners (upon which you can place your block of wood which'll get hit by your sledge hammer). .... Because without such a thing I think the liner would bite into the wood without much of the "hit" being transmitted to the liner. (If part of this device enters the bore and is a close fit inside it - I think this would also serve to protect the liner and ensure the force gets more evenly applied arround its circumference.

I will certainly be following your assembly with interest. (I've thought of trying this sort of thing myself but I'm not sure I'd have the balls. )

BTW - Are your new liners just as thin or do you think those old ones may have been bored out?

And that engine looks like its had a hard life..... judging from all the baked-on crud on the outside and the wear on the oil pump spline.



PS. I think "speed" is the key if your using "temperature difference" to ease the fit. Hence my talk of hammering them in rather than pressing.

 

[vwluv10338]

Cam journal looks fine, emery super fine the areas, should be just fine.
Now the Dry-ice drop in method is to keep the cylinder cold with the dry-ice in the cyl so to keep it cold plus this will need a lubed install as the block will be hot. Trick is how to keep the ice in it while pulling in the liner , Upside down block , pulling the liners up while the cyl bottom is a 17mm aluminum seal and pull disc .. Theres my brain fart .

This is what your trying ?

Large redi-rod and pull the liners in using the oil pan deck to the top of the liner ? Got Air and & gun ? fill the liner with dry ice and water ..

VT

The manual says to press them in. I'm going to do a quick hone before I try to get them in just to clean up the block a little. I was going to make a puller tool out of an aluminium wheel bearing race installer. I bought the allthread to build it but didnt after I got the liners out without it. First I think I am going to try to chill them with dry ice and try to hammer them in first. If that doesnt work I can take them to work and press them in.

Wow. This is really interesting DIY engine overhaul!

Make sure you compare the OD of the new and old liners before you attempt to insert the new ones.

Also you'll need to take other measurements so you can work out the protrusion you'll end up with when each liner is knocked home.

And I'd be tempted to turn up something to fit the top of the liners (upon which you can place your block of wood which'll get hit by your sledge hammer). .... Because without such a thing I think the liner would bite into the wood without much of the "hit" being transmitted to the liner. (If part of this device enters the bore and is a close fit inside it - I think this would also serve to protect the liner and ensure the force gets more evenly applied arround its circumference.

I will certainly be following your assembly with interest. (I've thought of trying this sort of thing myself but I'm not sure I'd have the balls. )

BTW - Are your new liners just as thin or do you think those old ones may have been bored out?

And that engine looks like its had a hard life..... judging from all the baked-on crud on the outside and the wear on the oil pump spline.



PS. I think "speed" is the key if your using "temperature difference" to ease the fit. Hence my talk of hammering them in rather than pressing.

None of the liners have any shims, I checked carefully for them. I am hopeing they will be in spec and I wont have to do any shimming. I dont have the new liners yet. I was waiting to order the rest of my parts after I measured the journals and checked my oil clearences.
The aluminium puck I have that was just a little too big to pull the liner out should be just the right size to use to hammer on the top. I am worried about breaking off the little lip on the liner which would put me back at square one. However, I know the liners are unfinished and need to be bored so I am not sure how thick they will be. This engine has not been bored before because I measured the bored before I ordered pistons. I was just going to slap in new pistons and rings and roll on but here we are.

P.S. Yes it seems this engine has had a hard life. Most of the pistons had carbon coating the face of the rings. Sludge everywhere. Even with a dead cylinder she ran well.

 

[VTCDN]

Hammer !!
Post pix of the destruction of liners ,,
You won't have "Feel" by whacking at it .

Old liner OD measurement is toast marbles , since he zip cut and cracked them for removal .

Correct on thinking aluminum wheel bearing race installer with a 1/2 UNF thread, weld 2 nuts on a ready-rod , build one of those race installers with a machined / lathe recess for the protrusion for holding the puck & liner together , mount the rod and puck ready to be pulled in with the welled 2 nuts on top with the pulling brace across the oil pan seal deck. rod going straight through cyl into liner , then the aluminum machine puck and then its bracing so the puck don't bend , then the nuts that spinn.
With block upside down , liner hanging low and out fill liner with dry ice slivers or precut stips and triangles , when full of Dry ice , add water once till full , lightly oil block bore , lightly smear CV outer grease and wipe excess away, When ready , use impact gun on top welded nuts while the liner is pulled up into block , Ice should keep liner cool /oil & grease should create a small area that the temp won't transfer as quick . And if the load seems to much , then the gun will tell you . A hammer is wack & crack in my eyes.

The 2H manual I downloaded ""nov of 1985 "" never shows the liners be pressed in but states a oversized piston bore. I look in a machining parts book and overview , it shows pressed liners but of 6 tonne .. I don't think my brain fart of 1/2 allrod / ready rod will pull that without stripping.


VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Hammer !!
Post pix of the destruction of liners ,,
You won't have "Feel" by whacking at it .

Old liner OD measurement is toast marbles , since he zip cut and cracked them for removal .

Correct on thinking aluminum wheel bearing race installer with a 1/2 UNF thread, weld 2 nuts on a ready-rod , build one of those race installers with a machined / lathe recess for the protrusion for holding the puck & liner together , mount the rod and puck ready to be pulled in with the welled 2 nuts on top with the pulling brace across the oil pan seal deck. rod going straight through cyl into liner , then the aluminum machine puck and then its bracing so the puck don't bend , then the nuts that spinn.
With block upside down , liner hanging low and out fill liner with dry ice slivers or precut stips and triangles , when full of Dry ice , add water once till full , lightly oil block bore , lightly smear CV outer grease and wipe excess away, When ready , use impact gun on top welded nuts while the liner is pulled up into block , Ice should keep liner cool /oil & grease should create a small area that the temp won't transfer as quick . And if the load seems to much , then the gun will tell you . A hammer is wack & crack in my eyes.

The 2H manual I downloaded ""nov of 1985 "" never shows the liners be pressed in but states a oversized piston bore. I look in a machining parts book and overview , it shows pressed liners but of 6 tonne .. I don't think my brain fart of 1/2 allrod / ready rod will pull that without stripping.


VT

You might be right. I may still build the rod, I have the aluminium puck and rod. I have the older shop manual from before they went to parent bore and you are right they show pressing force of 6-11,000 lbs. I figure that is at temp and I was hoping that with the dry ice it wouldnt take that much. We shall see . Parts will be ordered as soon as I hear back from Australia.

 

[vwluv10338]

I got it a little more work before I leave for Easter festivities.

I soda blasted an engine mount and my injection lines. I wish I had a powercoat setup but I have no place for an oven.

The soda worked well on the lines because I didnt want to be too harsh.

 

[VTCDN]

Friggin H !!!!


ART and mudder Porn , best place for it.

I have another Idea , but let me mull and check a few things first.
Don't need all to know I'm completely loonie

VT

After Easter sacrificing of my belly, I got a chance to check.

Width between channels: 16-3/8" ,I figured block width lees than that.

For 150 :: $129.99
13% Off
+ $12.99 shipping , a new tool for the wife , any time she need's to crush nuts or yours !!


Then you would do the ice , but also be less hassle than carting to werk, plus if 1 liner cracks, that's more than the proper way. Useful to you as well as the household.

VT

Edit found a nut being cracked

 

[vwluv10338]

Parts!!!!!

 

[derelict]

Looking Good!

 

[vwluv10338]

Guess what I got!!

Now I can powder coat. I have been waiting 10 years for this.

I can turn this:

Into this:

Intake glass bead blasted:

Coated in "Blasted Aluminum silver"

Same color on the front cover. The dirty pics of this are earlier

P.S.
We had this at work today. It's awesome.

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[VTCDN]

LFA , Get to do a serviceability test ??

Looks like the tone down one i saw in Europe, it had a wing and two tone aero grounds kit..

I didn't get a chance to get a ride, but i drove other toys..
Job= playing wit toys, Life = fixin tractors

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

LFA , Get to do a serviceability test ??

Looks like the tone down one i saw in Europe, it had a wing and two tone aero grounds kit..

I didn't get a chance to get a ride, but i drove other toys..
Job= playing wit toys, Life = fixin tractors

VT

I didnt get to do much to it or even drive it. It's actually a prototype so it has no VIN and can't be sold. I heard we can't start working on them without the district rep. being present. I do know there is a two page paper you have to fill out and get approved by the rep. to order any parts.

 

[VTCDN]

prototype here in the Republic of ( ) . But many prototype's are in europe moving around .

I don't see any huge bumpers and air bag to the max CRAP , so that could be why,, Those are the types of cars that YOU need to know how to drive and read, No Blind Spot Alerts or Collision stuff, Analog gauges with an oil light , s***e , I know the frigging gear im in ? look at that stick and the gate it's in..

Naw , never sell here till Auto and dumbed down.

VT

 

[derelict]

The LFA has the best exhaust note of any of those cars (Lambo, Ferrari, etc...). Love it. The one you saw in Europe was probably the Nurburgring edition which has a bunch of extra wings and valances on it. They are for sale in the US as I know a few people have already taken delivery (like Paris Hilton which means it will soon be wrapped around a tree somewhere). Pretty awesome car.



Congrats on the powder coating setup. Looks really good.

 

[vwluv10338]

So I got some more powder in the mail. I split an order with a few people at work. However, I did not realize the powder was coming in bulk. So I had to split it up. It looks worse than it is.

I decided I wasnt happy with my high temp painted injector lines. I decided to powder coat them eventhough they were cadmium plated from the factory. According to Eastwood you can mix their gold with translucent green and get a gold with a green shimmer that mimics the cad used on bolts and carbs. Well I ordered my powder from Powderbuythepound.com and tried it with theirs.

I did equal parts translucent candy green and gold. It was way too green.

It is the one on the left. However, in the sun it was more gold. The sample on the right is three to one gold to green.

Here is the three to one. It looks more gold as the camera would not pick up the subtle green.

I decided to just add more gold and shoot it. I couldnt get the color I wanted so I figured gold was fine. When it is in powder you can see the green in it.

I like the way they came out overall. I shot some "Super durable high gloss clear" that I really like.