My 2H is trashed

[vwluv10338]

NO DESERT !!

Bargain Basement

I haven't DL the 2H FSM, I have a 3B & using that manual , It shows the pre-cups to have a protrusion. You`re specs of .004-.008 are in my eyes , not worth the decking , just wet polish it back to sparkling kleen. You could be opening a pre-cup issue over a second retorque and a few heat cycles. Nu-Way is my seat cutters / cleaners.

So are the piston ring lands pounded out ? seeing the Ring you posted , it had carbon on the face of the ring, and the times I've seen that is when rings run broken.As with the having to clean up the Non-ring travel area above the piston top land to remove the pistons, that ball de-glazier on just that area couldn't remove and knock the ridge out ?

On a quick patch , if that piston had somewhat decent lands , you could re-ring / bearing it / new steel headgasket (measure head bolts length , see if any were necked ) and give it a Go.

If not you`re into pistons and liners PLUS , $$ I saw a 1988 BJ up here with 220,000 Kms go for 1800.00 for the truck , auto I think .

VT

Either I'm going crazy or you edited your post.

After I got a hot compression test of 220 dry and 365 wet I was sure my ring lands were going to look like Rufus'. That is why I wanted to pull it apart. My experience is with aircooled engines and where you pull the bore off the piston. I didnt expect such a piston ridge on this and could not get the piston out. I hammered it up and got it stuck. After I reamed it and got it out the top compression ring was intact and ok. The one with the carbon in the pic was the second ring and it was broken. Either it was broken or I broke it. Spec on the land with a new ring is .0018-.0033. I compressed the old ring in and had lots of wiggle room. I never did take a full measurement because my .0018 feeler is waffer thin.
The alfin pistons cost $354 AUD + shipping. I wasnt putting the old pistons in anyway since I want to go turbo. I never took a good spec because I figured it was time for an upgrade.


On a plus side, I'm actually a little gitty right now. I heard back from my boy Neal at RooDogs4WD with some more parts prices. I say my boy because I must have sent him a dozen emails and he gets back to me next day every time. Awesome customer service.
I oversetimated some prices and had shipping included in my liner quote. My parts are not going to be as expensive as I thought.

Stuff I have:
Alfin pistons- $354
Rings- $175
Full gasket set - $200
Rocker arm - $36

Still need:
Liners- $290 unfinished from Japan
Main bearings (ACL) - $80
Thrust washers - $14
Cam bearings - $38
Con rod (ACL)- $42
Set of Precumbustion chambers (6) - $112
Intake valve- didnt know I needed
Liner install - $600
Shipping- $75-100
Got a quote from a shop down the street to rebuild my injectors- $390

So around $2431 or so. Not too bad. I know there is going to be some more random stuff like the magnafluxing and what not. Like I said my coworker is cutting my valves so that saves some. Overall I don't think that is bad to have alfin pistons and new injectors.

 

[VTCDN]

Nope, great decision , and now you know the Build.

Personally for my build , I'd do new head bolts , build the high density 4 core rad to drop heat.and do the cooling system port and polish flow enlarging just to make sure,(since your adding turbo) .

Patch was for stock and limp till the engine found you.

Mr E , have you seen the silly thread on replacing liners in frame with ready-rod !!

Great pictures and keeping us up to speed.

VT

Edit , Just got the 2H/12H manual.
You have cambered piston rings on the stock setup. are the Alfin pistons got inserted / reinforced ring lands ?

I didn't know that Lexas had those : My experience is with aircooled engines and where you pull the bore off the piston. I didnt expect such a piston ridge on this and could not get the piston out.

VT
I'm amazed at the low quality of some manufactures who build Time-X crap .
VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Nope, great decision , and now you know the Build.

Personally for my build , I'd do new head bolts , build the high density 4 core rad to drop heat.and do the cooling system port and polish flow enlarging just to make sure,(since your adding turbo) .

Patch was for stock and limp till the engine found you.

Mr E , have you seen the silly thread on replacing liners in frame with ready-rod !!

Great pictures and keeping us up to speed.

VT

I may have seen that thread but I'm not sure. I know its possible and there are tools to do that but its usually the guys with wet liners that do that. They dont have as much friction on them.
I still may try the liners myself before I go to the machine shop. Its kind of funny how I got the name of the shop. A co-worker of mine (tech) shoots pool on a league. A guy on another team says he worked on Toyota forklifts. Oh really.... so we look up his phone number from the pool league roster. I call him and he tells me he didnt know Toyota made a diesel . However, he gives me the name of a guy and says call Kenco Lifts. Its was funny because I was just about to call them since they are the Toyota forklift parts dealer and service. I had called them about pistons and they stiffed me. Bastards. Anyway, so I call there and ask for Mike so and so and tell him " I work with a guy that shoots pool with a guy that used to work with you and I need help with my 2H." You could tell from his voice he wasnt sure what to do with that.
On the bright side he is familiar with the 2H but its not something he sees all the time. He give me the name of a local machine shop that he uses. So I call them and catch the guy as he is walking out the door. He was nice enough to talk to me for 20 minutes or so about liners and what not, he really knew his stuff. I cant make his business hours but he said I can drop my engine off at his house which is close to my work. Awesome. He said a lot of times you cant push the liners out and he will have to mill them out. He said if I wanted to try to get a cutting tool inside the bore and score the liners and see if I can get them to crack, then press them out. Thats how I do wheel bearing races, cut off wheel and an air chisel. He said to pack the new liners in dry ice for 2 hours and they might fall right in. If not I will take it to him for $600. Either way.


EDIT: Yes the alfin instert is the stainless steel reinforcement on the compression ring.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

...I was sure my ring lands were going to look like Rufus'.

And mine looked like this.

 

[vwluv10338]

mmmmm Pistons

Alfin insert on compression ring

DO WORK!

 

[vwluv10338]

And mine looked like this.

Yeah, I was shocked when mine didnt look like yours. Mine look fine but are out of spec but your rings look better than mine.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

He said to pack the new liners in dry ice for 2 hours and they might fall right in. If not I will take it to him for $600. Either way.

How will you ensure that they stick out above the block the proper amount?

 

[vwluv10338]

How will you ensure that they stick out above the block the proper amount?

They bottom out on the top of the block with a shim. For the love of god I just hope they end up where they need to be. I can't imagine changing that shim could be any fun. In this pic from the FSM you can see the .040 ridge that is broken on my engine.

 

[VTCDN]

Good to see pistons with the reinforcement on the compression ring.

The bit about cracking the liner and dry ice is a real long shot if you wanted to use this block.
Yes it has been done on Listers Diesels, but that is the way they recommended it to be done.
Our quick-trick of bearing races/cones splits is on a much smaller scale and it's not a precision area other than alignment.

I've done many liners on Diesels , wet , sleeved (screaming demons ) but looking in the 3B FSM i see 2 Ton/Tonne minimum to press, the 2/12H i can't seem to find the page saying press here.

Either way , the liners I have done are major, need real micrometers , outside to depth ,plus a selection of shims to make sure the protrusion is set.
You only get one chance as I've seen.

Plus the tricks are liner removal at temp with ice are risky , if the liner starts to gaul and cracks on install, I made a mistake on a Renault once.

With your pictures , your dressing the rods & pistons already.

VT

 

[Doug384]

Depending on the thickness of the liner you might try running a bead with an arc welder along the bore of the liner. It should shrink enough to remove easily. Works well on bearing races too.

 

[VTCDN]

Depending on the thickness of the liner you might try running a bead with an arc welder along the bore of the liner. It should shrink enough to remove easily. Works well on bearing races too.

TA-DAAAAAAAAAAA

I totally forgot about that lovely trick

Way-2-Go Doug.

Now as with the brg races, and the highly electronic laptop cars were on, thats an area of a No-No for a simple bearing replacement devolves into a no-start.

I swear on some electronic puters they have a pre-programmed die point.

On the 12H manual I DL to read and stay on your page , the RMO12E one didn't show me a pg on the liner pressing.Here is on from My 3B DL Manual ,just for reference. A weee-Bit more pressure than ready-rod .
VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Depending on the thickness of the liner you might try running a bead with an arc welder along the bore of the liner. It should shrink enough to remove easily. Works well on bearing races too.

I have read about that trick too. I also heard if you are not careful you can weld the liner to the block. No thank you.

As for the ECU, VTCDN is right. It doesn't take much voltage from a welder to flow up and kill the electronics. I have seen a few cars with that from bodyshops. The same thing will happen with electronic steering racks. Hit a curb and the motor created a current and sends it back up to kill your steering ECU.

 

[VTCDN]

Morning Sir,

Yes that could be a problem , but if your good with a welder , you bead up rather than using the bead to penetrate , causing the weld to pull the liner smaller.

Myself , my welds are chicken scratch , the time i did see that done a Pro Arc dude was used , as he explained to me the reasoning .

Wow , Steering module from curb kiss, glad I'm not the only one seeing that crap, seen belt pryos & sips from the same kiss.

Yea 60 LC ,

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

I heard from the seller here with the rolled HJ61. He gave me a price for the engine only. It's close to what I might be willing to pay but shipping might kill it. I'm still torn though. I would love the 12HT but that could easily bite me. It's hard to say how bad the crank is going to be.
You have to register to read this but here is a guy in Australia who bought a 12HT with a spun bearing.
Australian 4WD Action | Forum - Login

Humm. Not sure that link will work. The thread is called 12HT- the garage project I had to have.

 

[VTCDN]

I need to be approved by an
administrator before you can log in. Another email will be sent when this
has occurred.

As I don't need approval almost everyday , How much for that bit ? And it's got a core charge on it ? Glad it's not my car .

VT

Got In , time to read .
VT

Australian 4WD Action | Forum - Login

 

[VTCDN]

Duel Snorkels plus , good read ..Man I can just hear the McLeod's Daughters.

L-Marbles posted a wanker with his sheep , this has restored my faith in the criminals we sent down there.

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

When I started tearing into my engine I decided I wanted to get rid of that ricer crap intake filter. I found a stock HJ60 airbox in the classifieds here from the seller "Mike". A smooth transactiona and good shipping from the great white north.

A little rusty:

So I sent it off to get blasted and powder coated. I also sent out my valve cover to get a "chrome" powder. I like it better than plain silver.

Back from powder:

P.S. I always assumed people actuallly wrote "****" I didnt know it autocorrected swears

 

[VTCDN]

Pretty ,

assumed people actually wrote "****" I didn't know it auto-corrected swears.. Someone flappin

It's the LINER question / block / 12HT / Whats next ?

Auzi gent seem to do ok on his path.

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Pretty ,

assumed people actually wrote "****" I didn't know it auto-corrected swears.. Someone flappin

It's the LINER question / block / 12HT / Whats next ?

Auzi gent seem to do ok on his path.

VT

I feel like a pendulum. I am back and forth on rebuild 2H vs. rebuild 12HT. We shall see. I am going to try and get my dad to drop off my head on Monday to get crack tested. Working 7:30am-6pm makes it hard to get to a shop that is not open on Saturdays.

 

[77cruiser77]

I'd go with the 12HT, but I suppose I am biased