My 2H is trashed (1 Viewer)

[kim]

I havent noticed any real problems with the drieshafts. I think I have a loose pinion in the rear though. I havent gotten around to checking it.

While my rear shaft was getting lengthened, I drove around on my front shaft, which is 1/2 inch short. The result was fairly noisy as the ship yoke had some play perpendicular to the shaft. This would make noise when driving along at 30 mp/h or more and under no load. If I had load, no noise.

I suspect that you will have a similar issue in the rear shaft. I'd be interested in hearing how much overlap you have in both your front and rear slip yokes.

 

[vwluv10338]

While my rear shaft was getting lengthened, I drove around on my front shaft, which is 1/2 inch short. The result was fairly noisy as the ship yoke had some play perpendicular to the shaft. This would make noise when driving along at 30 mp/h or more and under no load. If I had load, no noise.

I suspect that you will have a similar issue in the rear shaft. I'd be interested in hearing how much overlap you have in both your front and rear slip yokes.

I didnt do the engine swap so I dont know much about the driveshafts. I will admit when I realized my engine was tilted they did not even cross my mind. When I correct the engine angle I figured I would just go by other people's pics and get my valve cover bolts to line up against the firewall where it seems correct. (I am not sure if I am explaining myself well)

P.S. I didnt notice them being tight. I have had the truck up on a lift and I didnt notice them being loose then either. Of course I dont know what driveshafts were installed when the 2H and H55 were installed.

 

[kim]

I didnt do the engine swap so I dont know much about the driveshafts. I will admit when I realized my engine was tilted they did not even cross my mind. When I correct the engine angle I figured I would just go by other people's pics and get my valve cover bolts to line up against the firewall where it seems correct. (I am not sure if I am explaining myself well)

P.S. I didnt notice them being tight. I have had the truck up on a lift and I didnt notice them being loose then either. Of course I dont know what driveshafts were installed when the 2H and H55 were installed.

I completely understand your explanation of the angle of the engine as I have referenced mine exactly the same.

I can't remember how you came upon this truck, did you buy it with a blown engine or ?

 

[vwluv10338]

I completely understand your explanation of the angle of the engine as I have referenced mine exactly the same.

I can't remember how you came upon this truck, did you buy it with a blown engine or ?

The truck was built with an engine from cruiserparts.net and sold here in 2009 in VA

https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-t...28-1989-hj62-built-fj62-w-2h-new-h55f-va.html

The truck apparently ran poorly and smoked. Scott bought it and had it painted, did a bunch of small repairs etc. I bought it from him here.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-t...le-trade-89-62-built-w-2h-diesel-h55f-sc.html

It turns out the smoke was low compression on #1 which it appeared to have from the begining. Seems like every owner got a little screwed along the way. The engine didnt smoke when the weather was warm and would go away with glowing it for a minute or so (Wilson switch). Other than that the truck ran fine and I drove it 10 hours home to MD from SC. When I found it had low compression after owning it for two weeks I decided to tear into it and figured I could replace the pistons before bore damage was done because I thought it was ring land wear and or carbon.

Overall the whole thing sucked a bit but I learned a lot and now I have a new engine for around $3000 or so.

 

[vwluv10338]

1080 miles on her so far. I took the day off work to pick this up:

1996 M101A3 $440 rolling on GY 37's

 

[kim]

You're as cruel as I am to my 2H. I've got one of those too!

Heavy suckers.

 

[vwluv10338]

You're as cruel as I am to my 2H. I've got one of those too!

Heavy suckers.

Yeah its kind of bigger than I thought. I could pull it ok though since I have 4:88s. I have lots of low end grunt but I still want a turbo. At this point I will have to think about how much weight I am willing to put into the trailer and still feel ok.

 

[kim]

Yeah its kind of bigger than I thought. I could pull it ok though since I have 4:88s. I have lots of low end grunt but I still want a turbo. At this point I will have to think about how much weight I am willing to put into the trailer and still feel ok.

I've loaded mine pretty well and my truck handled it fine. My truck is very similar to yours, 2H, H55, 4:11, 35's, turbo. I've had a yard of sand in it, fully loaded with lumber and so forth. Really handy but I would like trailer brakes for it. It fills all of my 'pickup truck' needs.

 

[vwluv10338]

I've loaded mine pretty well and my truck handled it fine. My truck is very similar to yours, 2H, H55, 4:11, 35's, turbo. I've had a yard of sand in it, fully loaded with lumber and so forth. Really handy but I would like trailer brakes for it. It fills all of my 'pickup truck' needs.

Your truck sounds pretty close to what I want but with my 33's. This was part of the plan when I got rid of my 89 yota pickup. I needed a trailer that I could get stone or mulch in. At least mine is an A3 so I have brakes.

 

[vwluv10338]

there is an angle to the 2H in the 60 but I think you went about 1 1/2" - 2" more angle than factory. Me, mine is 1" less angle than factory which resulted in a VERY tight rear propeller shaft. I had to cut my rear shaft down by 1/2" to get that back to factory slip. I'm considering lengthening my front shaft by half as well to compensate for my misallignment.

Did you have an issue with your propeller shafts because of the change?

I'm running a 2H, H55, 62 series Tcase, 4:11 and 35's now and I estimate 2000 rpm (tach is not working), 100 km/h (GPS), 5th gear, turbo. I am VERY happy with this combo for on road manners and highway drive-ability. I went with the 62 series tcase as it has 2.28:1 low range but I haven't spent enough time wheeling to give feedback on the low end happiness.

Its funny. I was going backward through my thread because I know I had talked a little bit about the engine being tilted. I have a new welder but still need to get my tank filled so I have not made any progress there. However, I had been chasing down a vibration in the truck. Right after I bought it and fixed the wheel bearing that was about to fall off it got much better. However, around 60 mph I still had a vibration that felt like u-joints. Every time I put it up on a lift I would check my joints and they seemed fine. One day I just happened to be under the truck and decided to smack the driveshaft.... clunk clunk. The rear shaft u-joint is toast. So I buy one and try to install it but I cant get the driveshaft out. Its stuck. Apparently there is only about 3/8" of slip when the truck is on the ground and there is no slip at full droop. I figured it must be because the engine was too far foreward but now I am thinking it is most likely from the engine tilt. On another note I also found a FJ62 in a pick and pull and got one 4.11 diff. I still need to go back and get the other one but working in a junkyard sucks.

 

[maat]

$440 holy fark what a steal, nice one

 

[kim]

Its funny. I was going backward through my thread because I know I had talked a little bit about the engine being tilted. I have a new welder but still need to get my tank filled so I have not made any progress there. However, I had been chasing down a vibration in the truck. Right after I bought it and fixed the wheel bearing that was about to fall off it got much better. However, around 60 mph I still had a vibration that felt like u-joints. Every time I put it up on a lift I would check my joints and they seemed fine. One day I just happened to be under the truck and decided to smack the driveshaft.... clunk clunk. The rear shaft u-joint is toast. So I buy one and try to install it but I cant get the driveshaft out. Its stuck. Apparently there is only about 3/8" of slip when the truck is on the ground and there is no slip at full droop. I figured it must be because the engine was too far foreward but now I am thinking it is most likely from the engine tilt. On another note I also found a FJ62 in a pick and pull and got one 4.11 diff. I still need to go back and get the other one but working in a junkyard sucks.

'At full droop' should be looser on the driveshaft then when the vehicle is on the ground and supporting it's weight i would think!

Oh, and when you grab the other 4.11 diff, you should consider the t-case as well because the 62 has a 2.29-1 gear ratio in low range.

 

[vwluv10338]

'At full droop' should be looser on the driveshaft then when the vehicle is on the ground and supporting it's weight i would think!

Oh, and when you grab the other 4.11 diff, you should consider the t-case as well because the 62 has a 2.29-1 gear ratio in low range.

Exactly. That is the issue. The driveshaft doesnt act normally and I attribute this to the clocking of the transfer case. Af for the transfer, I have no idea if what transfer I have in my truck. I would think I have a 62 since my truck is a 62 but I have no idea.

 

[kim]

It's hard to say. somebody did a swap in your truck from a HJ 60 presumably. The 60 with 5spd had a 2:1 tcase, at least in Canada. Only the 62 in had the 2.29-1 and maybe the Canadian HJ60 with the auto but I don't think so.

 

[kim]

I don't think the 'clocking' of the angle on the engine could account for a tighter driveshaft at full droop.

My 2h mounts are a little further back and clocking is a little off so my driveshaft was really tight when the vehicle was on the ground. Created BAD vibrations when at 30 mph and above. However, when at full droop, it was 'ok' but not as much slip as stock.

 

[xtremitys]

.deleted

 

[vwluv10338]

Well it's been a while since I have been on my thread. I was recently motivated to work on the cruiser when my rear shock crossmember rusted off and I had to replace it with black gas pipe. I forgot to take pics but I will take some later. Then I started looking at the rust coming through around the fenders and started poking with a screwdriver and you know how that goes. When I bought this truck off mud the seller said the body work was done and there was no bondo. When I went to buy the truck I could tell there was a lot of bondo but I wanted the truck and bought it anyway. My own fault for not having patience and now I am dealing with it. I figured I could get away with repairing the outer fender. The deeper I dug the worse it got. I ended up cutting out some of the inner fender and repairing the body. I will have to fab up a replacement for the piece I cut out and keep working from there. I ran out of daylight before I got too far. Please excuse the Mickey mouse welds.

 

[vwluv10338]

Camping last winter before I started poking holes in it.

 

[vwluv10338]

Starting on the inner fender liner bottom. Bent and cut a 90 and then started working it on the metal shrinker.

 

[vwluv10338]

Starting on the outer fender













I started bending and shaping the new lip for the inner fender but I ran out of MIG wire.