My 2H is trashed

[vwluv10338]

Man, thats almost too nice to put in really.

It kind of made me sad. I degreased the engine bay the best I could but it doesnt look nice. Its a shame to put this engine into my dirty off-color engine bay. I had planned to pull the front end apart and paint the inner fenders and firewall with Eastwood ceramic Chassis black. I even bought the paint but decided I would rather get the engine running. This wasnt supposed to turn into an engine restoration. Every time I cleaned or coated something it made the thing next to it look worse. Where does it end? I had to stop somewhere and I drew the line at the engine bay. When I get some 60 front end parts and do the swap I think I will mask off the engine and fininsh the engine compartment.

 

[TLC Norway]

The truck was painted by the previous owner. Land Rover Coniston Green LRC570/HYE .

Land Rover color on a Land Cruiser.....sacrilege

Thats what i thought! Its the same green that rig of mortis had, right?
I like it, even if its a rover colour.

 

[vwluv10338]

Thats what i thought! Its the same green that rig of mortis had, right?
I like it, even if its a rover colour.

I know he got the color from someone elses rig. If you search threads by user 'redfishbluegrass' there is a thread about it getting painted.

 

[kim]

Thats what i thought! Its the same green that rig of mortis had, right?
I like it, even if its a rover colour.

Rover colour, eh?

It doesn't matter to me...this is the single most gorgeous colour I have ever seen on a Cruiser!

 

[vwluv10338]

Engine in

Now everyone posts an engine starting but its never actually the first start. I tried to get that but after taking about 5 videos I just stopped untill I got it started.


I worked today finish it up to try and start it. Power steering pump on, radiator in, second alternator on etc.

Then I tried to start it.


Just clicking from the starter. So I got the Supra and jumper cables

Then I did lots of this:



Then when I finally started to get somewhere the fan was hitting the shroud because I left the one engine mount that I wasnt sure what to do with loose. It would be fine while cranking but once the engine would start to catch it would torque up and hit the shroud.




I had trouble getting the air out of the lines. I would crack them, crank the engine, retighten them and still no start. Finally while I let the starter cool I opened the manual and found the injector pump bleed screw. I bled it there, then the lines again. Same result. Eventually I came back and got more air out of the pump. Then I started to get somewhere.



ITS ALIVE






EDIT: not sure why my videos are no longer working

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll146/vwluv10338/?action=view&current=027bdada.mp4

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll146/vwluv10338/?action=view&current=b87d1477.mp4

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll146/vwluv10338/?action=view&current=529f24b2.mp4

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll146/vwluv10338/?action=view&current=1dc00a8a.mp4

 

[lostmarbles]

Sounds S W E E T!

And it's good to see a realistic "first start sequence" for a change.




This is one of my favourite threads of all time!

 

[vwluv10338]

A Few Issues

So I drove it today a bit and I found two issues.

1) Clutch -
I got out of my driveway ok but as soon as I pulled out on to the road the clutch would slip if I gave it ANY gas. Now I did not replace the clutch. I believe the previous owner did so it should have been fairly new and it looked ok. The flywheel was pretty bad but I had spent enough money on this thing and it drove fine before. I do remember the engagement being near the end of the pedal travel so I started kicking myself for not replacing all the clutch parts. Well I pulled out an FJ60 aftermarket manual and it said to adjust the clutch rod. Easy enough. I havent had much time to drive it toay, just got back from a free Matisyahu concert, the clutch seems to be engaging all the way now. I will drive it to a gas station soon to see but I dont want to drive it much because of issue #2.

2) Leaky injector-
My number three injector has a slight leak. Everything is new, all seals and gaskets. It seems to be coming from the leak line (return). You would think it would be leaking on the high pressure side but from what I can tell its the return. I have tried to loosen the injector line, then the nut that holds the return down and retighten. Maybe when I installed it I torqued it too much? There is a torque value for the injector but not that nut in my manual. I had new gaskets there that came with my injectors from the rebuild shop. I figure I will get a new set and reinstall the return line. It sucks because that means I have to disconnect all the injectors and the heater core hose I think.

EDIT: Another issue

I think I got my HJ60 air cleaner bolted into the correct spot. The stock intake hose will not connect to the throttle body. Does it look like my engine was installed on an angle? Remember my front driveshaft hits the crossmember with the zerk fitting because I think the engine is tilted. I added a shim under the passenger engine mount and now the driveshaft clears but I would like this intake to fit.

Compare my pic to this stock 2H pic I stole from the FS thread. Look at where the last valve cover bolt is on the firewall compared to mine.

P.S. diesel strips off "Super durable high gloss clear" powdercoat.





lostmarbles- Thank you sir.

 

[Ivy4x4]

G'day vwluv10338,

This is great thread, I have been following it for some time now. Nice to see that you have it back in the car!! I was wondering what the outcome was with the different engine mounts was? Did you have the wrong one?

Keep up the great work, nice to see that you include the hiccups as you go along too.... Nothing ever works out 100% the first time unless you're kissed on the dick!

 

[lostmarbles]

Any updates vwluv10338?

Are you using it regularly now and happy with the way it's running?

 

[vwluv10338]

500 miles and counting. Its running great. It turns out one of my injectors had a leak. I had to take it back to the shop and have them fix it. After that, no leaks or issues.

Future issues to be resolved:

1. according to online calculaters my truck has 4.88 gears. At 59 mph (GPS) I am at 2450 rpm in 5th on H55 and 33's. I like the low first to get moving but you have to shift in 1 second. I need to get stock FJ62 4.11s.

2. Cut off the engine mount and get the engine where it should be. I have a turbo I want to get on but I need to get the engine mounted where it should be.

With the gearing I dont need to turbo so I need to do the mounts then the gears. Once the gears are done then I can add the turbo to make up the power.

 

[lostmarbles]

Glad to hear your reconditioning work was so successful.

If I ever wear out my present engine, I would like to follow your lead by doing as much as I can myself (including changing my liners).

 

[subzali]

Just my opinion, and I am not knowledgeable with diesels, but your engine does look tilted. I haven't gone through your whole thread though. Instead of 4.11, why not get 3.73 FJ60 gears? Keep your rpms lower and the diesel happier?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Just my opinion, and I am not knowledgeable with diesels, but your engine does look tilted. I haven't gone through your whole thread though. Instead of 4.11, why not get 3.73 FJ60 gears? Keep your rpms lower and the diesel happier?

I think it's tilted because of the bad motor mount, but there is a slight cant to many diesels especially from the factory.

I would certainly consider 3.73 gears unless you have bigger than 33" tires (or have plans to go bigger). The turbo should easily turn them, and I suspect that's a big reason that our 40 is getting such incredibly good mileage out of a tank of gas. The 3B/turbo is plenty grunty to haul the truck around on 33s with 3.7 gears, and the engine is really just loping along at cruise RPMs.

P.S. diesel strips off "Super durable high gloss clear" powdercoat.

Really? That's fascinating. What brand PC are you using? Our clear powder has held up very, very well to diesel, brake cleaner, and oil. I used a Caswell clear of some flavor.

That engine really looks great brother! You're making me wish I had replated our injector lines instead of painting them.

Dan

 

[vwluv10338]

I think it's tilted because of the bad motor mount, but there is a slight cant to many diesels especially from the factory.

I would certainly consider 3.73 gears unless you have bigger than 33" tires (or have plans to go bigger). The turbo should easily turn them, and I suspect that's a big reason that our 40 is getting such incredibly good mileage out of a tank of gas. The 3B/turbo is plenty grunty to haul the truck around on 33s with 3.7 gears, and the engine is really just loping along at cruise RPMs.



Really? That's fascinating. What brand PC are you using? Our clear powder has held up very, very well to diesel, brake cleaner, and oil. I used a Caswell clear of some flavor.

That engine really looks great brother! You're making me wish I had replated our injector lines instead of painting them.

Dan

The engine is tilted from poor install. The mounts are welded to the frame in the wrong position.

I was unsure about 3.73 and 33's. It seemed on the forum that people liked the 4.11 and 33 combo. I believe that combo is close to the 3.73 and stock tires. Will FJ60 3rds bolt into my 62 with no problem?


This is the clear that I used. Powder Buy The Pound -Powder Coating Equipment and Supplies

I will say though that I am not talking about getting a little diesel on the clear and having it run to bubble. I am talking about the injector having a slight stream of diesel that drips off the engine the entire time the engine is running. I drove it for a week with the #2 injector leaking untill I pulled it and took it to the shop.

 

[kim]

The engine is tilted from poor install. The mounts are welded to the frame in the wrong position.

I was unsure about 3.73 and 33's. It seemed on the forum that people liked the 4.11 and 33 combo. I believe that combo is close to the 3.73 and stock tires. Will FJ60 3rds bolt into my 62 with no problem?

there is an angle to the 2H in the 60 but I think you went about 1 1/2" - 2" more angle than factory. Me, mine is 1" less angle than factory which resulted in a VERY tight rear propeller shaft. I had to cut my rear shaft down by 1/2" to get that back to factory slip. I'm considering lengthening my front shaft by half as well to compensate for my misallignment.

Did you have an issue with your propeller shafts because of the change?

I'm running a 2H, H55, 62 series Tcase, 4:11 and 35's now and I estimate 2000 rpm (tach is not working), 100 km/h (GPS), 5th gear, turbo. I am VERY happy with this combo for on road manners and highway drive-ability. I went with the 62 series tcase as it has 2.28:1 low range but I haven't spent enough time wheeling to give feedback on the low end happiness.

 

[derelict]

I think youll be happy with 4.11s. Thats what I had in the BJ on ~33s. GPS 65 mph was about 2400 rpm. Motor looks fantastic.

 

[vwluv10338]

I think youll be happy with 4.11s. Thats what I had in the BJ on ~33s. GPS 65 mph was about 2400 rpm. Motor looks fantastic.

Thanks man. Sorry you had to get rid of yours.

You're right. Your BJ felt pretty good in terms of acceleration. I am playing around on the gear calculator and cant decide. I can see how it would be nice to have 3.73s so I could get to 70 mph at 2260rpms. Gear Ratio Calculator

It may just come down to whatever gears fall into my lap. I figured finding stock 4.11s would be easy but I dont want to pay for shipping. I need to swap out my ARB locker in the rear but then I can sell my 4.88s and I dont want the lock-rite in the front anyway.

 

[LCDiesel60]

VWLUV--I have an 86 HJ60 with factor 3.7 gears (Canada rig) and the 2H diesel, H55 transmission on 33's. On flat I would take off in second, not-flat or in a hurry, then first gear. Same now that we have the turbo installed. I have 35's from Craig's list to install at some future date both for clearance and I want lower RPM's.

Low range is still plenty low--better highway and town RPM's for fuel economy at the same time. Diesel has so much 'torque' you can drive it a lot differently than gas rigs--shift sooner, go longer before the 'lug'-so, lot's of flex with what tire size and gear set-up you choose.

Glad it's on the road--definitely one of the sharpest 2H out there--well done!!

LCDiesel60

 

[RufusTheDufus]

I can see how it would be nice to have 3.73s so I could get to 70 mph at 2260rpms. Gear Ratio Calculator

Do you have a pyrometer installed? 3.73s and tall tires will lead to high EGTs.

Do you plan to install an intercooler with the turbo when you get around to it?

I have the 3.6l H diesel in my Troopy w/H55 on 33s. The tach runs 2400 RPM at 65 MPH in 5th on the highway. I have my fuel screw set so I don't see more than 1000 degrees F pre-turbo on the pyro. 55 to 60 MPH is a much better cruising speed, primarily because of road noise.

 

[vwluv10338]

there is an angle to the 2H in the 60 but I think you went about 1 1/2" - 2" more angle than factory. Me, mine is 1" less angle than factory which resulted in a VERY tight rear propeller shaft. I had to cut my rear shaft down by 1/2" to get that back to factory slip. I'm considering lengthening my front shaft by half as well to compensate for my misallignment.

Did you have an issue with your propeller shafts because of the change?

I'm running a 2H, H55, 62 series Tcase, 4:11 and 35's now and I estimate 2000 rpm (tach is not working), 100 km/h (GPS), 5th gear, turbo. I am VERY happy with this combo for on road manners and highway drive-ability. I went with the 62 series tcase as it has 2.28:1 low range but I haven't spent enough time wheeling to give feedback on the low end happiness.

I havent noticed any real problems with the drieshafts. I think I have a loose pinion in the rear though. I havent gotten around to checking it.

Do you have a pyrometer installed? 3.73s and tall tires will lead to high EGTs.

Do you plan to install an intercooler with the turbo when you get around to it?

I have the 3.6l H diesel in my Troopy w/H55 on 33s. The tach runs 2400 RPM at 65 MPH in 5th on the highway. I have my fuel screw set so I don't see more than 1000 degrees F pre-turbo on the pyro. 55 to 60 MPH is a much better cruising speed, primarily because of road noise.

EGT will go in with the turbo. Intercooler will be another project once the turbo is in and running. I dont know when I will get around to it. I needed to get this on the road before my baby is due. She is coming on October 4th so at least I made it but I dont forsee much time in the near future for wrenching.